B18a Turbo Setup?

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

Ractive78

Senior Member
If I were to leave my engine internals stock, except for a block gaurd how much psi is safe to run with a turbo?
 
If your internals are stock, I wouldn't go any higher than 6psi. Also, don't do the blockguard. It's too much hassle to install because the cylinder walls need to be honed, and the rods or piston rings would go before the cylinder walls do. My recommendation? Don't jump the gun. Wait untill you have the money to at least do rods pistons and blockguard. Trust me, it will be worth it.
 
Originally posted by Ractive78@Jan 27 2003, 03:35 PM
If I were to leave my engine internals stock, except for a block gaurd how much psi is safe to run with a turbo?

Depends on the turbo. Calesta knows acouple of guys running a stock sohc vtec engine on 9-10psi on fmax kits. (i think it was fmax, maybe its the drag).

If you get a 18g like the greddy one that is offered in their kits and depending on the motor, you can boost around 11-12psi with an intercooler.

What engine is this on?
 
Would I need a special crankshaft? Where is a good site to order pistons, rods, etc....?
 
tdehnel - you have no clue what you are talking about, so just stay out of it. a block guard goes on the outside- not on the inside.

boost is relative. its a pressure- not how much power can be made. what im getting at is, psi means jack shit. it depends on the size of the turbo.

if you need b18b pistons, i have some endyn turbo spec for sale.
see "thats it, im going vtec/t"
 
As long as you keep the intake air temp reasonable you should be able to turn the boost up until you hit 275 -300 whp with a standalone engine management system. I would highly recommend the block guard. If you listen to every magazine tech article you will be stuck with 220whp. Block guards DO NOT cause any ill effects on your engine.. they save you from splitting your cylinder walls and kicking your broken rods out the side of the block; Then again you can listen to the magazines and make 220whp and never have to worry about things like that.


jason
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Jan 28 2003, 04:23 AM

see "thats it, im going vtec/t"

can i get a link on that? i cant seem to find it, and i definatly wanna read it, thanks

EDIT- i found it nm, so the only reason ur goin vtec is bc u got a good deal on a built motor?
 
As long as you keep the intake air temp reasonable you should be able to turn the boost up until you hit 275 -300 whp with a standalone engine management system


st00pid.. can u alaberate on that? I want to know exactly how to acheive such power!!.. :huh:
 
Originally posted by SPYotic@Jan 29 2003, 06:37 PM
As long as you keep the intake air temp reasonable you should be able to turn the boost up until you hit 275 -300 whp with a standalone engine management system


st00pid.. can u alaberate on that? I want to know exactly how to acheive such power!!.. :huh:

my guess is your goin to hav to tune tune and then tune, st00pid is a master tuner from what ive heard, and fine tuning ur engine will determine lots of things
 
Originally posted by SPYotic@Jan 29 2003, 06:37 PM
As long as you keep the intake air temp reasonable you should be able to turn the boost up until you hit 275 -300 whp with a standalone engine management system


st00pid.. can u alaberate on that? I want to know exactly how to acheive such power!!.. :huh:

well, its like this.

turbo's compress air. compression has heat as a by product. hot air being forced into the cyl's can lead to detonation. so, by keeping the AIT down, cooler if you will, you have a lesser chance or detonating. having an effective intercooler is good. tuning from an egt is also helpful because you can see how hot its coming out.
 
pissedoffsol,
I'm sure you're pissed off about something, but don't tell me that I have no clue what I'm talking about. We can debate back and forth about whether or not the blockguard is inside or outside. To me, outside the engine is any bolt-on part, inside includes pistons rods blockguard crank etc. Anything that you have to remove the head or take apart the engine to install is inside to me. Don't tell me that I have no clue on a judgement call like that, it's rude. I'm also not going to stay out of it, because there's someone here who needs our help and I'm sure he appreciates any input he can get. We all started out as newbies and just cause I have very few posts doesn't mean I don't know anything about building a motor. In any case, my advice was very good. The cylinder walls will not be the first thing to break when turboing (sp?) a motor, so the labor of taking apart the motor and honing the cylinder walls would not be worth it unless you're adding any other parts inside the motor, especially if only boosting 6psi. Many would say that no internal work is necessary, but some of us are looking for OEM-like reliability. All I'm saying is that your comment was out of line, and I think you'll agree that I have some good input to add. Even if you do disagree, there's no point in telling someone that they have no clue what they're talking about. Take out your anger somewhere else. Ractive 78-good luck with everything.

-Tom Dehnel
 
we confused how we said inside and outside.

by saying inside- i assumed you meant like inside the sleeve.
by outside, i assumed to be the water jacket.

thats where we had our differences
 
Makes sense, and I see your point of view. To get back to the issue, do you think that the blockguard is a necessity? I've said it before, but I just think that the labor involved is not worth the marginal safety you get. What do you think?
 
its probably the most debated part in honda tuning.

advantages:
offers some protection to your sleeve

disadvantages:
holds in heat whihch could lead to detonation
restricts water flow
T.O.O claims, and i agree, that 98% of cyl crackage starts in the middle and works its way up, not the other way around. makes sense- thats where the r/s ratio is at its worst- thus pushing hard on the sleeve.

make your own choice from there.
 
i recently installed a blockguard to my set up.....i have a b18b crx w/ a max rev turbo kit, 255lph fuel pump, 550cc injectors, hondata, je 9.1:1 pistons, eagle rods, ferrera valves, springs and retainers (only the blockguard, valvetrain, rods and pistons have been installed)....and after reading some of the posts about blockguards i'm beginning to think that my overheating problems might be due to the blockguard. after about 5 min of running the motor my water temp gauge reads that its overheating and the coolant bubbles over into the reserve bottle. the water pump and radiator are good, the fan is hooked up to a switch that i turn on manually and coolant is flowing thru both upper & lower radiator hoses.

now, when i took the car to my shop, they hooked up a temp gauge which measured the temp of the coolant flowing thru the radiator hose and the temperature was normal, even when the gague cluster read that it was overheating. we even left the car running for about 20 minutes after the cluster read overheating and we didnt see any smoke or anything coming from the engine bay.

so i just wanted to know if this means that my motor is really overheating (could be faulty gauge cluster?)...and if it is overheating, how can i correct this problem? thanks alot.
 
well, if youre not sure- and i dont blame you for thinkign the oem cluster is wrong, the best thing to do is to get a cheap autometer water temp gaguge. its like 30 bucks.

it could be the block guard... but it could be somethign else all together. you gotta kinda troubleshoot to what is causing the problem before you can just blame one thing.
maybe your thermostat is going... maybe your coolant has an air bubbel in the system...
 
You can boost around 10-15lbs on a ls motor.


Not safely on stock internals, maybe with ALOT of tuning 11-12 lbs is possible on stock internals but it wouldn't be worth the money and time when he could just buy pistons and rods for like $6-700, and boost to 10+ lbs.
 
Back
Top