Burning Oil and Bouncing Idle

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lsvtec

GNU/Linux Evangelist
All right the story goes like this. When I built my LSVTEC I used the head from a B16A1 and the IAC was bad. It didn't fuck with the idle, it just threw a code. So I listened to my roommate (this is my first mistake) and put the my old LS IAC on. Only one of the bolts line up so the valve is on with only one bolt. I checked my TPS voltage and it was off (reading something like .3 volts closed) so I figured that was my problem. After paying the dickheads at my local Honda dealer $80 to seperate the TPS from the TB I reset the voltage and started her up again. No change. Still bouncing from 750 or 1000 RPM to 2750 or 2800 RPM. It is driving me crazy, it is killing my mileage and the car is a chore to drive. I need suggestions. The only thought that I have is to replace the IM with the Skunk2 so the IAC will bolt up properly. Any help would be appreciated.

Now for oil comsumption, I am looking more for confirmation than ideas but both could help. For the life of this engine (around 2000 miles) it has been burning a significant amount of oil. Something like 1 quart every tank of gas. I figured that this was caused by my rings not seating. I used pistons out of a B16 that had 30-40k miles on it so I guessed that the rings are having a tough time seating. I pulled my cylinder head last night (thanks to dohcvtec_accord from Poor Ass Racing and his brother for thier help). Most of my exhaust valves have been caked with burnt oil and 1 or 2 of my intake valves are the same. Is there any significance in this or does it just say that oil is getting in the combustion chamber somehow?

Sorry for the novel. Thanks for your help.
 
Something sounds wrong here. The Ls has a bigger cylinder bore than the other b-series, which is the point of a frankenstein. If memory serves those b16 pistons should be too small. I've posted a question on the forum for this one, so I'm speculating. After confiming/fixing that, it could have been your IAC but it can also be the fast idle valve. My buddy just totalled his integra because his went out when he was downshifting to a stop sign and it threw him into traffic when the rpms surged.:(
 
No, the LS has the same bore as all the other B series, the B20 has a bigger bore. Are the IAC and the fast idle valve the only things that could be causing the bounce?
 
Thanks lsvtec, you answered the post I made about the bore size. It was stroke, not bore. Anyway, the oil consumption could be to blame as well--If the rings are not seating due to bad honing or too much of a cross hatch pattern. It could be bad valve. All in all, on all of the honda's and Acura's that come in the dealership (late models) it's usually one of these. If there is alot of coolant loss and air gets in there it will cavitate the system and the idle will surge from the sensor getting freaky readings as well.
 
Originally posted by cws13@Jan 1 2003, 08:43 PM
If there is alot of coolant loss and air gets in there it will cavitate the system and the idle will surge from the sensor getting freaky readings as well.

Yep had that problem before

Maybe your valve guides are bad and are letting oil in. I think that it is probally a problem with your head.
 
The bottom of the valve is caked, I haven't pulled the valves yet so I don't know if the stems have and of the residue on them. I need to find a place that will sell me a valve spring compressor that will work on a Honda. Everybody here carries the ones that work on OHV engines exclusively. I had bled the coolant system and the resivoir was full, I don't think that I had a significant amount of coolant loss. Hmm, thanks for the opinions so far.
 
grab a wrench and turn the cam to open up the valves. you can see inside if it looks like oil is being drawn through the stem seals and tracking down the valve stem. I would still bet on the bottom end though. Based on how many of your valves are coaked I doub't that many seals went bad at once, valve stem seals go bad rarely on Honda's in my experience anyway.
 
Thanks again for your help cws13. The head is off the bottom end and the cams are out. I am going to pull the valvetrain because I am getting some Skunk2 valves. I just wasn't sure if I should look into pistons/rods. Now I think I will. Any other opinions on the bouncy idle?
 
Just get the oil consumption down first. You can't nail down a driveability issue until your not burning oil. The rest should be easy comparatively. By the way, I see the same spring compressor I use on e-bay for about 20.00 all the time.
 
The idle bounce is probally the IACV it sometimes can just be cleaned out, the screen gets clogged up. A friend of mine moved his TPS around. I not dumb ,I know they are rivited in , but his has screws. But now his doesn't bounce any more. Also if sleves are scared order slightly oversized pistons for a bore.
 
I have the rivets drilled out of my TPS and tried that, it didn't fix anything. The IAC screen is clean.

cws13 thanks again. What kind of spring compressor do you use? I will need to get one.
 
No sweat. My compressor is old as dirt and has no name on it. There are many brands like it. It looks like a giant C-clamp and works like a pair of vice grips. Put a pocket magnet by the keepers when you compress the spring or the keepers can shoot off into oblivion. You can get in touch with a dealership and find out when their tool trucks come by. Walk onto Snap-On and get an intrest free several thousand dollar-more-dangerous-than-drugs-credit line, they will know what you need for any job. You can even rent one from some tool stores. In GA we have Re-Tool which is like PLay-it-Again sports for tools. i love it,very cheap.
 
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