Clutch cable help .. Cable to Hydro Integra

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If you have access to a decent Honda recycler then (if it was me) have them show the two pedal assemblies to you
or just find a cheap hydro set up and see if she is a direct fit for mounting. (I think you might get lucky) Mounting the
Clutch Master Cylinder difficulty level will only be found once the pedals are mounted and you can see if you have a
flat vertical surface to drill the three holes through the firewall. This whole excersion and change over is rare....(or seems so to me)
so you might be venturing into new territory.
 
^^ Yes that is what i am about to do.. i have the cable setup for temporary use right now and i am shifting without a clutch.. it is only temporary..still open for ideas about stronger cables and more info on the hydro pedal swap
 
skellagher said:
guys check this out...
http://www.innovativemounts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=41001
Click to expand...


41001-2T.jpg


I've already considered this.. But since it also relies on the stock clutch cable to operate so i'd rather look for other options
 
yes but the hydrolics would take all the stress off of the clutch cable and the nut that stripped and broke.
 
I dont think its any different then your set up now (in terms of stripping that crappy plastic thread on the cable)
 
yea i hear ya i have a hydro ex/si tranny and i would like to gamble with that and see whats up with it but i wanna see a review or something first.
 
For $250....man you should be able to do the whole conversion for cheaper then that (used stuff obviously)
 
b20vtec build...

what would be a good valvetrain 2 put in my high comp b20vtec build..wannna break atleast 200hp...n how big can i go with the cams....

mods...
85mm wiseco piston
11.5-1 comp
 
LOWLIFE said:
no its completely different... the master cylinder is using hydrolics to do the work.
Click to expand...

but the hydrolic cylinder is pushed using the actual cable and plastic screw still.. the only thing different is it "might" take off some resitance.. but i don't plan to spend 250$ just to "see" if it would lighten the resistance a little bit.. id rather fix the problem as a whole instead of working around it.. by either eliminating the clutch cable as a whole or finding a stronger one which is what this thread is about
 
BonesZ33 said:
but the hydrolic cylinder is pushed using the actual cable and plastic screw still.. the only thing different is it "might" take off some resitance.. but i don't plan to spend 250$ just to "see" if it would lighten the resistance a little bit.. id rather fix the problem as a whole instead of working around it.. by either eliminating the clutch cable as a whole or finding a stronger one which is what this thread is about
Click to expand...

well if you wanna do a complete swap do it. its al up to you.

but if you understand how hydraulics work at all then i think it would be easy to see that it would take pretty much ALL of the effort off of the clutch cable.

good example. your braking system, easy to stop the car with the car running and some vacuum car not running and no vac = hard to stop.

need a better example? drive a vehicle with hydraboost brake system they use pressure from power steering to assist in braking power. ok now turn that vehicle off, PITA to steer.

or think about how a hydraulic ram works. ever wonder why so many professional rock crawlers dont run gear boxes and run hydraulic steering only? its cause when bound up and flexed out its sometimes nearly impossible to to turn even with really powerful power steering.

still not good enough?
drive a car with power steering. its easy to drive and turn at a stop right? ok now take the same car and pull the power steering belt off of it. MAJOR Pain to steer espically at a dead stop. in fact so much so that a vehicle that came with manual steering is easier to turn at that point.

all of these are via hydraulics. if you have even driven some old farm equipment or a really old truck and used the fully mechanical brakes you would know it takes ALOT of force on the pedal to stop these vehicles.
 
Last edited:
LOWLIFE said:
well if you wanna do a complete swap do it. its al up to you.

but if you understand how hydraulics work at all then i think it would be easy to see that it would take pretty much ALL of the effort off of the clutch cable.

good example. your braking system, easy to stop the car with the car running and some vacuum car not running and no vac = hard to stop.

need a better example? drive a vehicle with hydraboost brake system they use pressure from power steering to assist in braking power. ok now turn that vehicle off, PITA to steer.

or think about how a hydraulic ram works. ever wonder why so many professional rock crawlers dont run gear boxes and run hydraulic steering only? its cause when bound up and flexed out its sometimes nearly impossible to to turn even with really powerful power steering.

still not good enough?
drive a car with power steering. its easy to drive and turn at a stop right? ok now take the same car and pull the power steering belt off of it. MAJOR Pain to steer espically at a dead stop. in fact so much so that a vehicle that came with manual steering is easier to turn at that point.

all of these are via hydraulics. if you have even driven some old farm equipment or a really old truck and used the fully mechanical brakes you would know it takes ALOT of force on the pedal to stop these vehicles.
Click to expand...

Since the system is 250$.. and the fact that it isn't correcting the problem adressed which is the plastic screw breaking on the clutch cable i'm not going to bother looking into this any farther.

You mentioned the brake cable being stiff untill you turned the car on so the brake booster which is run by vacum can do its job and make the brake much easier.. well since this hydrolic cable to hydro tranny converter isn't using a forum of vacum or a booster to ease stress .. it is simply relying soley on the clutch cable for operation.. who are you to say that my clutch setup isn't stiff enough to put enought stress on the cable even with this new hydrolic converter?..

until somebody with the same exact setup comes along and says i have a compition stage 5 clutch and flywheel and i am running this with a stock clutch cable and plastic screw and it has laster me a year.. id rather not spend 250 dollars on it..

anyways if anybody cares about the actual topic.. which was how to correct or avoid using a plastic clutch cable.. i found one which utilizes METAL threads...

39_1.JPG


after i purchase and install this iwill reportback on its strenght;)
 
if anybody is interested in what happened with my new clutch cable .. as you can see the threads of the cable are METAL.. but the screw is still PLASTIC.. so after about 3 weeks the plastic screw decided to break again. What i did was take a castle nut and cut an very small hole in one of the sides to accomidate for the clutch line and slipped the castle nut onto the metal threads..You can use any other nut that will fit the threads i just happened to have a castle nut .. Now i have a clutch cable with metal threads and a metal nut and its been working great..

oh and the nut wasn't very wide so i used a big metal washer to make sure the rubber part was not destroyed.. if you have any questions let me know

45D2196-4.jpg
 
For future reference, what vehicle was cable the for and what size threads were on nut that u used? that way people know what to use incase they need to do this too.
 
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