D16y8 build for boost

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awptickes

unimpressed by you
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I picked up some spare engine parts for Maddison. You can read about her here:
https://hondaswap.com/threads/the-white-mess-my-em1-si-with-a-d16y8.530709

I'll be building this engine as identically as possible, in order to save myself some hassle on the tune. Granted, it's going probably need to be bored over to 75.5mm, due to the condition of the block, but we'll cross that road when we get there.

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So, I got a bunch of stuff.

D16y8 block w/alternator
D16y8 head
D16y8 intake manifold (with all sensors, injectors, valves, etc.)

New in wrapper:
Intake manifold gasket
exhaust gasket
timing belt
new tensioner
water pump + gaskets
vtec solenoid + gaskets
P2e obd2a ecu
head gasket
un-used ARP headstuds
box of new sensors


Basically, everything needed to put together a new engine. So, I'm gonna do that.

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What really confused me is how clean the head is.

The block looks like it sat in a shed for a few years, but rotates freely with just my hand on the flywheel.

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More to follow soon.
 
Step one. Strip down the block completely. Save all the bearings you take out if they're in good shape so you can refer to them later after you forget to write down the colors before cleaning it.

Take note of any markings. They'll help you later.

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Send the block to a machine shop to get it hot tanked and decked. Ensure they know to not touch literally anything else. Write up a note of what you need done on a tag and attach that to something that won't get touched in the process. When they get done with it, they'll call you, until then, wait.
 
IS your crank cracked or is that a marking line?
 
Where do you mean? I didn't look over the crank yet, so it's entirely possible...

I got the block deck cleaned up, as I decided to check it for flatness before dropping it off to a machine shop. Using a starrett 386 straight edge and a 0.001" feeler it didn't pass under the straight edge, so I tried a 0.0005" feeler, which also didn't pass under the straight edge. So, I shined a light on it, and couldn't see anything showing underneath, so it's better than 0.0005" flat.

So, yeah, not gonna take it to a machine shop. I guess I'll just get a brush and scrub it a little better.

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The plan for this block is to it to the point where I can just throw a transmission on and put it in the civic instead of pulling the current block to replace the oil pump, front main seal, rear main seal, and breather box with a -10 AN fitting.
 
It's a casting/forging mark. You had me so worried I went out to the shop with a magnifying glass.

I'll measure the journals later today I think.
 
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