Dead block pics, Rollerwaves = boom
- Thread starter phunky.buddha
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SixtySecondAssassin
Senior Member
that motor had some fucking BALLS man. care to let us in on the future plans?
Yeah, it was pretty sweet. Imagine what it would have been like in a lighter car, like your hatch!
New plans:
1. Drop block at machine shop (different one, slightly more $$$)
2. Clean up block to see what minimum bore size can be for new build
3. Order pistons
4. Thermal coat pistons
5. Match bore block to pistons
6. Reassemble
7. Break in and tune
8. Go out and spank a few unsuspecting Corvettes
9. Go beat up on my friend's Porsche 993 again
The new bore will probably have to be 86mm to clean everything up, but I'm hoping this machine shop will be able to do it with 85.5mm. I really don't want to run 86mm if I can avoid it, because those sleeve walls start to get really thin, and the head gasket might not last.
MikeBergy
Blah blah blah....
Mike, now what exactly is the skirt length? Is it the distance between the top ring and the bottom one, because I would think that the farther the distance between the top and bottom, the less the piston would rock around. That is probably what messed up your cylinder wall, I can't see anything else being wrong, exept for maybe that just is too big a bore for those kind of pistons. Maybe they would work better in a smaller bore. Or maybe your machine shop's tolerances weren't up to the specs that the piston requires. I dunno, good luck on the rebuild, I just got my skunk2 cams and valvetrain in the mail today, so I'm one step closer.
Thanks Mike. The skirt length is basically just how long the bottom of the piston extends... where you're actually supposed to measure it from, I have no idea. I just take it from the wrist pin to the bottom of the piston.
I'm not sure about the machine shop, but the block isn't going back to the shop it was done at last time.
I'm not sure about the machine shop, but the block isn't going back to the shop it was done at last time.
omega11855
Senior Member
this might sound real noob but what piston to wall clearence were you running? what material was the piston made out of? and did you warm up your car completly at idle before driving it? those would be some of my guesses as to why your walls look like that the less sillicone in a piston the more expansion at warm up meaning the more important it is to get a complete warm up for t he motor before driving at all.
0.0028 to 0.0029 inches was the clearance.
The piston- not 100% sure of exact composition, but of course it was standard forged aluminum alloy that Wiseco uses to manufacture pistons...
Yup, the car was always warmed up.
The piston- not 100% sure of exact composition, but of course it was standard forged aluminum alloy that Wiseco uses to manufacture pistons...
Yup, the car was always warmed up.
MikeBergy
Blah blah blah....
Mike, I think you just bought some badly designed pistons. I'm sure the guys at wiseco or endyn, or wherever you got the pistons, just weren't thinking about longevity when they designed the pistons. After all, how long does is take to get you down the 1320? Anyway, they should give a description of what applications the pistons should be used for.
Mike, that's exactly what I was thinking... but Larry says otherwise. I think the bore wasn't finished properly at the machine shop, but it still could have been the skirts.
Dark, yes- shorter = more rocking, rocking = bad. You don't want that. Longer skirts would be more stable.
Dark, yes- shorter = more rocking, rocking = bad. You don't want that. Longer skirts would be more stable.
Originally posted by Calesta@Dec 18 2003, 04:30 PM
Check it out everyone... if some of you have heard the rumors of my new block build screwing up, here's the proof. These are pictures that I took yesterday of my block and pistons. Take note that the engine was only running for 3000 miles. That's it.
First link = Dead block pictures
Second link = Import Builders Super Duper vs Endyn Rollerwave
The links aren't TOO 56k unfriendly, but they are 2MB for the first link and 1MB for the second. Just give it some time to load.
Discuss... what are your thoughts?
How did you break it in ? from the pictures it looks as if it was revved to high to soon. and maybe some detonaition. IMO, I've done that before. take some measurements before you start blaming others.
Originally posted by Jshade@Dec 27 2003, 10:46 AM
How did you break it in ? from the pictures it looks as if it was revved to high to soon. and maybe some detonaition. IMO, I've done that before. take some measurements before you start blaming others.
I broke it in just like Endyn recommended. The break in period was a good solid 1000+ miles before heading to the dyno.
Now before you call me a dumbass again, there was another engine built with the same pistons and rods (by a different shop) that came into Intercrew last week... same noise, same leakdown test results. The engine was dead after a month.
MAYBE.... just MAYBE piston design had something to do with it. I blame the parts.
Golden Eagle claims that the sleeve will hold 87mm, but I don't know anyone who's using it. That doesn't mean that it hasn't been done... but when you're running a bore that large in a B block, you're not going to have much head gasket material between the cylinders. I would count on never having a head gasket last very long...
The largest bore I would run on a daily driver B block is 85.5mm, 86mm if you're feeling good about yourself. With boost, 85mm is the largest I would go.
For pistons, I would go with something that has a skirt length that matches the stock pistons, and a wrist pin located in the stock location. Leave the super fancy stuff to the people who can afford to rebuild their engines every 10k miles.
The largest bore I would run on a daily driver B block is 85.5mm, 86mm if you're feeling good about yourself. With boost, 85mm is the largest I would go.
For pistons, I would go with something that has a skirt length that matches the stock pistons, and a wrist pin located in the stock location. Leave the super fancy stuff to the people who can afford to rebuild their engines every 10k miles.
I believe that Endyn still makes good stuff- I had excellent results with their Rollerwaves in my B20 build... just not with the super special pistons this time around. Pretty much any major reputable piston manucturer will be good, really. I think I'm going with an Import Builders spec piston set this time.
He doesn't have Wiseco in 85.5mm right now... I think IB Spec CP is the way I'm going to go. They're better anyway.