Doing A Swap Next Month

  • LS/vtec

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    9

Liquidblaze

Senior Member
My 1998 Civic DX Coupe is getting on my nerves and I need more power. I am coming across some money next month and I have an open source of engines listed above (all JDM). I have a friend who has his own shop and he goes to Japan every six months and brings motors back with him.

Well, I don't quit know what would be the best way to go thats why I am asking for everyone's help. I am taking suggestions on other engines also. I don't know if I am going N/A or if I am going to boost it, but I am leaning more towards a turbo.

BTW, I was looking in Hondaswap.com Reference Section and I thought that the B20 was a vtec, is it or is it not?

Thanks for your help!
-Chris
 

djextremity

Senior Member
Why not LS + LS tranny? If you're leaning toward boost, you'll want to resleeve (and bore) anyways, so you might as well save yourself the money you would have spend on a JDM B20. In fact, why not just pick up the LS from a junkyard here? It'll probably run you like 1500-2000 complete (I dunno how much your JDM friend can get it for), and it's always easier to smog a USDM engine than a JDM engine.

B20 is not VTEC in any trim.
 

Domeskilla

Senior Member
b20's aren't much more b/c you can't use the crv tranny.. so you pay 800 or so the long block and then 300 or whatever for ls tranny.

bore and resleeve the ls = b20

bore and resleeve the b20 = 2.2

so.. i would just go b20 b/c it will always make more power if some mods done to it as done to the ls.

(ls swaps are around 1200-1500 depends where you are located)
 

asmallsol

Super Moderator
Not voting on either one of your choices. Go with either the LS (no vtec) and bore that out to 84 mm or go with the crvtec if you want to go NA
 

SleEPeR_CRX

Senior Member
Dude, if u wanna go N/A go CRVtec, it will kick everything on theres ass, but they are also a fair bit of money. I would also go b20 but work all the internals so it can handle high rmp's.
 

Liquidblaze

Senior Member
I can get a b20b with a gsr vtec head for $1800. What all would I need for the swap? I know that in the package I get the engine, ecu, wire harness, axles (if I want them), and shift linkage (if I wanted). Is there anything else I need. Once I put it in and go N/A, what kind of power am I looking at, I understand you can't really tell but a rough estimate would be great.

Thanks for everyone's help.
 

asmallsol

Super Moderator
Originally posted by Liquidblaze@Jan 6 2003, 08:34 PM
I can get a b20b with a gsr vtec head for $1800. What all would I need for the swap? I know that in the package I get the engine, ecu, wire harness, axles (if I want them), and shift linkage (if I wanted). Is there anything else I need. Once I put it in and go N/A, what kind of power am I looking at, I understand you can't really tell but a rough estimate would be great.

Thanks for everyone's help.

just remember, by the time you are done with this swap (if you do it right) will cost you well over 5k. It is not just that simple slap the gsr head on that block, your going to need all new internals.

About rough estiment, I am not totally sure but it is going to be the trq. that is going to give you a heart attack. (doesnt happen much in hondas)
 

kyleirwin

Retired OG
Originally posted by Domeskilla@Jan 5 2003, 04:20 AM
bore and resleeve the ls = b20

that is not true a b20 block basicly is equal to a bored ls... not a re-sleeved ls. and that is just the block, the internals are pretty different.

if you're leanin' towards boost, i'd say go get an ls (b18b) and build an ls/t.

as for the h22, i talked to brian a little bit, and h22's in street driven civics are pretty fucked. they're too big so they have to sit low in the engine bay so it affects handling (not cuz of the extra weight, but cuz of the weight distrabution [sp?]) and also cuz it sits lower, the axles are slanted upwards so you're gonna need some tough aftermarket axles if you don't want to be breakin' axles left and right and then after you boost it, that still might not be enough to keep yourself from breakin' axles. plus with the h22, you have to get it sleeved if you wanna run forged pistons.
all the h22 info is basicly stright from brian, but it may have been a little distorted in my translation though.
 

posol

RETIRED
Staff member
Originally posted by chet@Jan 5 2003, 09:39 PM
b20z's are vtec.

b20b's are not.

get a gsr transmission, ls transmissions suck.

BAH! chet you fucktard.

you owned yourself right there man. :p b20z are NOT vtec. the difference between a b and z series is the compression ratio/domed pistons, and the intake manifold.
the head casts are both identical to the LS
 
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