***H22 SWAPS...GENERAL QUESTIONS***

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Shit, all that cutting and pasting. The pics don't show the writing that goes with them.

Just click RIGHT HERE
 
ok...i read your diagram and i think i got the idea but i just wanna make sure i got it right cuz i deffinately dont wanna fuck this up.

on the distribtor itself theres a clip that has 2 wires:
black w/yellow stripe
solid thin blue

on the clip that plugs into the distributor there are 2 wires:
solid thick yellow
solid blue

and on the clip that plugs into the external coil there are 3 wires:
solid think yellow
think black w/yellow stripe
black w/white stripe


basically what im gonna do is get a piece of spare wire and crimp a spade terminal onto it and plug the spade terminal end into the thick black w/yellow stripe wire on external coil plug and splice into the thick solid yellow wire that is on the clip that plugs into the distributor and that should be it?? right :blink:
 
Originally posted by TeamUrbanChaos@Oct 8 2004, 03:46 PM
ok...i read your diagram and i think i got the idea but i just wanna make sure i got it right cuz i deffinately dont wanna fuck this up.

on the distribtor itself theres a clip that has 2 wires:
black w/yellow stripe
solid thin blue

on the clip that plugs into the distributor there are 2 wires:
solid thick yellow
solid blue

and on the clip that plugs into the external coil there are 3 wires:
solid think yellow
think black w/yellow stripe
black w/white stripe


basically what im gonna do is get a piece of spare wire and crimp a spade terminal onto it and plug the spade terminal end into the thick black w/yellow stripe wire on external coil plug and splice into the thick solid yellow wire that is on the clip that plugs into the distributor and that should be it?? right :blink:
[post=400196]Quoted post[/post]​


yes, and that is how I did it. However, in hindsight, I could have made life a little easier. Essentially, all we are doing is jumping from the thick black/yellow, to the thick yellow next to the thin blue wire. This can all be accomplished on the harness side, and not on the distributor side. If I were to do it over, I would just add a permanent jumper between those wires before the distributor wiring starts.

This means no spade connector, and you retain plug and play with any replacement distributor that is the same.(H22 internal coil)
 
speaking of H22 swaps and shit, if i pick up an H22 head for my H23a motor will it bolt up??
 
Originally posted by ReDLiNe_9700K@Oct 10 2004, 02:37 AM
speaking of H22 swaps and shit, if i pick up an H22 head for my H23a motor will it bolt up??
[post=400723]Quoted post[/post]​


Start your own thread.
 
ok well i seem to be having problems finding a 92-95 prelude power stering pump so i might have to go buy this from honda if all else fails. although i was taking a look at the postions of the bolt threads on the H22 and the ones on my stock F22 and it looks as if i might be able to take off the powering steering pump and the metal bracket thats attaches and holds the pump in place and use that but im bot sure ? anybody know for sure???


also about a little back i asked if i will beable to use my stock F22 flywheel on the H22 and i got a "yes"response but the perosn who said it had a 95 accord and i have a 92 so does anybody kno from experience that i will be able to the same flywheel and clutch.



(T.U.C)
 
Originally posted by TeamUrbanChaos@Oct 13 2004, 01:51 AM
ok well i seem to be having problems finding a 92-95 prelude power stering pump so i might have to go buy this from honda if all else fails. although i was taking a look at the postions of the bolt threads on the H22 and the ones on my stock F22 and it looks as if i might be able to take off the powering steering pump and the metal bracket thats attaches and holds the pump in place and use that but im bot sure ? anybody know for sure???


also about a little back i asked if i will beable to use my stock F22 flywheel on the H22 and i got a "yes"response but the perosn who said it had a 95 accord and i have a 92 so does anybody kno from experience that i will be able to the same flywheel and clutch.



(T.U.C)
[post=402026]Quoted post[/post]​


I think your stock pump should work. I have heard of this being done. As long as the hood clears, and the hose is long enough, it should work fine. Like I said, I heard that two bolt holes would have threads, but not three.

90-97 Accords and 92-98? Preludes have the same bolt pattern. The flywheels, clutches, transmissions, and engines are all interchangeable. That doesn't include V6 or ATTS models.
 
as far as performance bolt-ons go, i was thinking about getting a light weight underdrive pully, cam gears and posssibly a skunk2 intake manifold but then again my main priority is gettin this motor in and running but i dont wanna wind up buying these thing down the road and having to do more work when i can just put them on when the motor is out. will it benifit me to get these things now or can i do them when i get the motor in?? <_< <_<



(T.U.C)
 
since a timing belt change should be part of the install, the cam gears would be a good idea to do at the same time. In fact, I'd probably skip on the Intake manifold, and do cams, gears, and belt all at the same time if you have the money to spend.

Underdrive pulleys would be ok, but not the harmonic balancer. The Honda harmonic balancer/pulley helps absorb vibration and keep your engine running longer. Don't take that out.
 
i dont know if i mentioned this before but i keep hearing from local performance shops that theres a way that i can use my stock ECU and buy a APEXi digital V-AFC controller instead of the P13. is this way any good?? ive heard of people using this method more then once but ive never seen anyone with it. :blink: :blink:
 
The stock ECU with a VAFC won't be able to use the IAB, nor will it look for a knock sensor. In addition, you'd have to get a dyno-tune using the VAFC on your stock ECU in order to get the correct fuel maps.

Does the VAFC allow for a higher rev limit? If not, this isn't even worth considering.
 
ok....ive run into another issue...about a week ago i discovered the way to tell what year my JDM H22 motor was. built according to the block it was produced in december of 91 which began to strike me very odd because they did not have DOHC VTEC until 92 but then i took a closer look at the block again and saw that it was built in late december of 91 which made more sense. my issue is i am having problems finding spark plug wires for this motor. i have been everywhere and to no avail. apparently the US did not get DOHC VTEC until 93 therefore places like autozone, advanced auto parts and pep boys dont have plug wires to fit this motor. every set of plug wires ive gotten were too short to make a connection with the spark plugs themselves and i havent found a set yet that are long enough. the motor itself came with a pair of stock sparkplug wires which measure up to be about 5 inches in depth but they look kinda shot. please someone tell me what plugs i need for this so i can continue with my swap...also can someone please explain to me how places advertise that their JDM motors general have about 30-40k on them when the motor is like 10 or 11 years old or in my case 13 years old?? and why do they pull these motors out around this mileage?? is it because of emissions?? someone please enlighten me!!
 
i am also going to need headers for the JDM H22 but some people are telling me that the bolt pattern on the exhaust manifold between the JDM H22 and the USDM H22 are different. is this true?? or are they the same?:blink:
 
I just bought the stainless Ebay header, and it worked great. Bolted right up at the engine, and the cat. It also had a flex pipe and O2 bung already there. No welding.
 
ok ive heard another runor that i need to kno if its true. For u guys that constantly answer all of my questions(TAB, DOHCVTEC ACCORD)..im sorry if i keep asking all these question about things that ive heard but im doing this swap myself and i wanna make sure that i do everything right during the swap. ok......i was told by a couple of friends that becasue the stock f22 accord fuel injectors run at low impeedence that i will have to open up the resistor box and take all 5 wire out of the box and wire all of them together and butt cap the ends so that the injectors will run at a higher impeedence? ive never heard of this before but i was told that the stock f22 resistor box will only run about 50% of the fuel that the H22 requires and the motor will run lean because theres not enoughf fuel going into the motor. is this true??
 
i did not have to do this either but i also had a 5th gen so im not positive as well but i would def say thats a crock of bullshit....due to the fact that ive simply never heard of this having to be done
 
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