IC Pipe and TB Sizing

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

That kit does look good, but Ive always been told that the best value for IC piping is Ebay parts, believe it or not. It makes sence tho, paying for a CNC mandrel bent piece of tube wont net you anymore power than hand drawn piece. The only thing Id worry about would be rather or not the piping has beads rolled in it at the couplings.
 
Really?!?!? WOW! That's a first. I wonder how good their fitment is? Have you ever heard about them?

I'm off to shop on eBay now. :D
 
Well Ive heard about others runnin the ebay pieces, but havent seen em first hand. Unless the guys who own the turbo cars in my area lied about what that had, which is pretty common round here. Theres one good thing, if the pieces need trimmed to fit, they were dirt cheap to buy in the first place, so take a sawzall to em. :D
 
newb said:
Well Ive heard about others runnin the ebay pieces, but havent seen em first hand. Unless the guys who own the turbo cars in my area lied about what that had, which is pretty common round here. Theres one good thing, if the pieces need trimmed to fit, they were dirt cheap to buy in the first place, so take a sawzall to em. :D
Click to expand...

:werd:
 
Luis998 said:
I just found these two...
eBay Motors: 2.5" Turbo Intercooler Piping Honda Civic Prelude CRX R (item 170236283917 end time Jul-09-08 16:45:52 PDT)

eBay Motors: 3" Turbo Intercooler Piping Honda Civic Accord Prelude (item 170235968347 end time Jul-10-08 17:59:45 PDT)

What diameter did you figure out you would have to go with? 2.5 or 3.0?
Click to expand...

Damn, ebay is blocked here at work.

I havent had time to do the math yet, but Ill be running 2" from the turbo to the IC, then hopefully 2.5" from the IC to the TB. I say hopefully because I have a brand new Omni Power 68mm (2.68"), and the one thing I do know is that the TB needs to be close to the same size (a lil bigger) as the charge pipe to keep throttle response up. If 2.5" wont work Ill have a NIB Omni Power 68mm TB up for sale shortly. :)
 
That would be a B series. Pretty similar to the build youve got goin, from what Ive read anyways.
 
That works. I'm researching turbo parts for both a D and B at the same time. :D See, I have this crazy thing stewing in my head to somewhat "play with boost" on my healthy Y7 and use it as a learning tool. If it were to die...well, NEXT! I have a spare Z6 that would promptly be swapped out. The part that really scares me is the tuning as I have NO idea where to find a good tuner...yet. That part will be thoroughly researched before hand, of course.
 
Ahh I see. Ya, I got a pretty sweet deal on a completely stock 92 cx with only 1 dent on the whole car (on the hood), and its got a D15 in it, so after I swap out my B project I wanna try my hand at boosted mini me with vitaras. But, thats quite a ways down the road at this point.
 
I bet you the deal I got on my '97 hatch was a better deal than yours was. :D You first.

I've contemplated Viatara's, but the compression leaves a lot to be desired. I'm thinking it would be too sluggish on the low end.
 
Lol, well considering the fact that this car literally has nothing done to it, my deal wasnt spectacular, but at least I dont hafta pay to de-rice it lol. Ya anyways a white 92 cx hatch with a D15 and 5 speed and stock everything for $1500.

Ya, the lack of power at the bottom will be acceptable for me. Im plannin on runnin BIG numbers. I dont think the D will see much, if any street action when its done.
 
My EK hatch was...drumroll please...$500 with 138,000 miles. It HAD a bad automatic tranny, which I had a spare tranny for, WHICH got converted to stick for I think $200 or somewhere around there. :D I think the shift linkage was $80 or so. I also got some rims for her for $200 with new tires. The stock tires are around six months old and in good condition. The worst thing about her now, the damn headliner is falling down. That's costing me at LEAST fifteen horses. :doh:
 
newb said:
Ya, the lack of power at the bottom will be acceptable for me. Im plannin on runnin BIG numbers. I dont think the D will see much, if any street action when its done.
Click to expand...

How long will it take your turbo to spool are you guessing? You are running 9:1 compression, correct? Eh, I don't know, maybe that won't be so bad. In my B build I plan on going with 10:1 compression and boosting that. :ph34r:
 
Lol, thats at least 15 hp down the drain, you could make up for that with some nice APC stickers and a big ol polished aluminum wing tho.

Really, I dont even know about how long its gunna take, I dont even have turbo picked out for that one yet. Im focusing mainly on the B, then when its all finished and smashing STI's and Evo's into the ground Ill start thinkin about the D more lol.
 
APC stickers, eh? I'll have to order a dozen. :D

There's no problem with not having the turbo picked out. I ironically have a turbo that I may end up using for my "experimental Y7" boosting. I say take your time. I REFUSE to rush. That and money at times has been scarce, so that helps not to rush. :D
 
Ya I hear you, it doesnt help anything to throw money at worthless parts. I had to learn that the hard way lol.

I dont believe I know what goals you have for your build, Ive just read about the parts you have. Would you mind sharing these goals, and some of the things your using to meet them?
 
Amen to that! I refuse to waste money.

Sure. The goals for my B build are 330whp, which could increase as time passes. haha
My build consists of the following:
B16 head with Skunk2 turbo2 cams, port flow or omni power valve train
Sleeved GSR block, bored to 85.5mm and blocked oil squirters. Also, it has an LS crank.
I can't remember the type of rods, but I think they are something like ultra light? I'm not really sure.
The pistons will be CP with 10:1 compression.
The tranny will be either a GSR or a Type R. (I've given myself a year and a half to finish, so I have plenty of time to decide)
Hondata S200 with all the bells and whistles to help with the tuning
Tein Flex full coil overs and a slough more of suspension parts, strut bars, tie bars...etc. etc.
Wilwood front and rear disc brakes

That's what I can come up with right now. I am paying off some of this stuff right now and do not have it yet, so that is one of the reasons I can't remember everything.
 
Mind you, I have yet to buy my valve train, so who knows what it will end up being in the end. Right now I am leaning towards PortFlow.
 
:thumbsup: It aughta have some good power outa boost, sounds like its gunna be a blast to drive.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top