Injector dilemma, me pissed!

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The Hondaswap Canadian
Ok so my car is currently sitting at Honda right now, i got the new distributor installed and its getting good spark, fuel to the rail but not the injectors? The car has been running really rough lately and i thought it was all ignition related, i was wrong. The ignition is now fixed but this must be the problem ive had the whole time.


- Dizzy, wires, and plugs
- Fuel relay (flaky but works) and fuel pump
- Fuses (atleast most of them have been checked)
- ECU (however it may be the culprit)


- Injectors

There is no signal to them, likely causes are faulty ECU wiring and maybe even the injector resistor box? Anyone have an idea? Had this problem? Had to leave it there overnight and see if they can figure it out tomorrow.
all i can say is either fuel pump relay or ecu. I've worked on a integra before that wouldnt start wait fifteen minutes and try again it would start. ecu was bad as well (was getting the solid LED of doom) and so was the fuel pump relay as well.
obd-o or obd-1 (i dont know teggy's that well)
Its obd1 (b16a SiR2), we are still testing things out, ill keep you guys posted if i know anything. Its been almost a week now and im getting annoyed without my car. Really i want it to work so i can put it away.
Well if your not getting any signal to the injectors fromt he resistor box, test the signal coming into the resistor box from the ecu. If signal, then bad resistor box. If no signal then ohm the wires from the plug to the correct pin at the ecu. If ohms ok then i would say bad ecu.
Well any OBDI ECU will work just to test to see if its bad.
^ Yup thats what hes getting a hold of, plus i believe he checked the injector box. Its pretty rare to see them go, thats only from what ive heard.
Not sure, my car is all mismatched. Leave it to a bunch of kids to do a swap, i met them last year, kinda punkish guys who seemed like the ignorant street racer types. BTW i bought the car with the swap already so i had no idea who did what to it, least the engine itself is great.
Ok then find out what ecu you are using and see if it is obd 1 or obd 0 if it is one then get rid of that resistor box. That would be causing alot of issues.
Ok Justin is even more pissed. My engine stamp says 92, which should mean its indeed the SiR2, but its wired in OBD0, which makes the ECU OBD0 as well, which sucks for trying to get a hold of another ECU. They are still trying to get an ECU to test. The resistor box checks out, and the ECU LED is solid and the engine light is now on solid as well.
Yup, when i turn the ignition on (not starting it), the LED stays on and the CEL stays on as well, never did that before. Great now i have to find a PR3 or PWO or something like that, which isnt as easy to find as say a P30. I have all winter to get one atleast. Unless i convert to OBD1 which is a whole new ball game i think, im not too familiar with in. Since the engine is OBD1 it shouldnt be hard should it?
Thats what Im going to do, I had a PR3 and it fried so I put my extra PR4 in it, tricked my B16 into thinking its an LS.:ph34r: And finding a PW0 or PR3 that someone doesnt want $1342 for is next to impossible.
I hear ya, now i read that to convert to OBD1 you need the dizzy and conversion harness and 4 wire O2 sensor right? I have the OBD1 dizzy already wired in and it works so thats a start.

Damn i need to get an oil change and bring the same thing some so it can sit for 4 months avoiding the salt. I just wish it could freakin run!
Yep, your right youll need an OBDI dizzy, ECU, four wire O2, and if you use OBDI injectors you need to solder all five wires that go into the injector resistor box together.
Sexy, ill use that as my second option if i cant find an OBD0 ECU, they suck for tuning and just seem way too outdated. Hondata doesnt even support them anymore, under compatible Hondata Systems for PR3/PW0 it says "Convert to OBD1"... lol
Please check the resistance from ecu ground pin to battery negative terminal with ecu plugged in and key on. Had a similar problem before my car was converted to obd1 and it wasn't a bad ecu. Had excessive resistance only with current flow and the light stayed on solid. Had enough current to boot up but was malfunctioning do to current overload.

Also if I remember correctly a solid light on some might indicate a lack of Pip signal, if spark works and not injectors, then id look at the cam sensor or wires.

To verify if the injectors are grounding properly, use an LED test light, alagator clip to a possitive source, testor tip to the respective injector pins at the injectors. Each injector has a power source coming from a resistor, you should have power there, the ecu then pulses a ground circuit. I think usualy the power wires are all going to be the same color, like yellow, one on each injector. The other wires are individually colored, your looking for a path to ground on those. Have someone crank it over for you while your testing.