my fellow turbo finatics- advice

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blackdahlia6

New Member
alright its been since mid summer that ive been planning and raising money for my build.
now my dilema...
i have a 1995 integra
its got 150,000 miles on the b18b.
since mid summer my plan was to swap in a b18c1, i/h/e, clutch flywheel, tokico shocks and have fun zipping around (with a reliable engine) however in all reality not being that fast of a car.

now that ive racked up some money ive really been thinking...
what if i yank my b18b, DIY hot tank it. replace my piston rings, headstuds, main/rod bearings, rod bolts, all new gaskets and seals, resurface flywheel and get a new clutch, then turbo it.

do you guys think this would renew my engine to be reliable for now and continue to be reliable when i continue to build upon it?
my goal if i did this would be at least 230whp using a t3/t04e.

and yes my turbo list includes injectors, s100, fuel rail, fuel pump and will be "tuned, tuned, tuned" seeing how tuning is everyones answer to everything these days
 
but are the parts i listed to be replaced on by b18b the main components that i should be replacing for it to be reliable (aside from new rods and pistons)
 
but are the parts i listed to be replaced on by b18b the main components that i should be replacing for it to be reliable (aside from new rods and pistons)

yea pretty much. by seals i assume you also mean valve stem seals. if not i would certainly recommend doing those as well. stock b18b's can run quite a bit of boost and make some nice numbers. take a look through this thread here. almost 500 pages of just people with boosted b18a's and b's. lots of guys with stock engines, and some with built setups as well.

LST / LS-T Turbo B18A B18B setups - Honda-Tech

here are some numbers i've taken down as i've perused that thread.. these are all on engines that are completely stock tb to oilpan. no arp hardware, no aftermarket rods or pistons, with stock cam. if i recall, most if not all of these people are still using the ls transmission.

-b18b, t3/t4, 14 psi, 12.6 @ 110mph
-b18b, t3/t4 57 trim, 301whp, 274tq @ 16psi
-b18a, 273whp, 10psi, slicks, ebay turbo kit, 11.9 @ 121mph
-b18b, 301whp, 245wtq on 12 psi, mid 12's in the quarter
-b18b, t3/t04e, 10psi, 12.73 @ 109.13

one guy was even running 20 psi on a completely stock engine and was running low-mid 11's. now i wouldn't recommend trying to break and records by running massive amounts of boost, but you should probably be safe running 12-14. but as you already know, it's all in the tune.

So if your goal is 230 whp with a t3/t04e, that shouldn't be a problem at all.
 
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d16 thanks for all that info, u get rep'd man
those are some impressive numbers those guys are putting down, i really only want to get into the 12's.

i though b18b stock rods and pistons were only good to about 270whp? thats why i set my goal way below that.

i figure if i can take my engine and freshen it up and get a new clutch all for 1,000 it'd be a lot more reliable than a crusty b18b longblock from hmotors for 800
that would need all new bearings, seals and gaskets anyway. then that 800 that would go towards a new b18b could go towards my turbo set up.

would u trust 150,000 mile connectings rods and pistons for turbo?
 
with 150k on the engine I would be concerned with the head (springs and retainers) new valve seals, if you had a good tune you could probably run 10psi, your piston rings may be the first thing to go cause of the high miles not because their stock. Your stock bottom end should hold up to close to 300whp... obviousl y rebuilding the bottom end and beefing up your valve train would be the best and most reliable way to go though...
 
Everyone seems to be on the right track. One question? When was the last time you changed the timing belt, water pump, and oil filter. If it's been awhile, I would replace them too.
 
Everyone seems to be on the right track. One question? When was the last time you changed the timing belt, water pump, and oil filter. If it's been awhile, I would replace them too.

i replaced the oil filter and timing belt about 5 months ago.
if i did replace the water pump would it be better to get one for an itr since ill be turboing it down the road?
 
OVERALL, does anyone agree that to renew my engines reliability for a high mileage 230whp turbo build i would have to:

DIY hot tank (long sit in carb cleaner or so?)
new piston rings
arp headstuds
arp rod bolts
new main/rod bearings
all new gaskets
valve seals
timingbelts
water pump
oil pump
and maybe some springs/retainers

any other weak spots that u see i dont have MENTION THEM!
 
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