My SiR2 96 DX

I finally finished the swap. Worked out all the little bugs and fixed all the little things we happened to leave loose and looked over somehow. I do have a question though, the motor seems to be idling a little rough and sometimes feels as if its missing when vtec is almost ready to kick in when im giving it WOT. Mods so far are (for reference): AEM CAI, custom 2.5" header-back exhaust system (no cat), MSD 8.5mm Superconductor wires, NGK Laser Plugs, Mugen clone chip with 5700 rpm vtec x-over. I know that it might be the chip causing it run run a little too rich for the VERY mild mods I have done. Just feels as though its cutting out when I start getting into the higher revs at WOT. Any suggestions would help a lot.
 

lsvtec

GNU/Linux Evangelist
I think that you would be better off running 93 without the octane boost. Your modifications don't include anything that would require that kind of octane. Do you have an ECU without a chip to try?
 

chet

Senior Member
i doubt very seriously that you have a problem with the fuel itself.

do you have any CEL's?

chances are you have miswired something or have incorrect timing, or something to do with ignition.

ignition, fuel delivery, wiring...one of those
 

phunky.buddha

Admin with a big stick
Admin
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The Mugen chip runs a LOT of fuel... it's probably the root of your problem. Get that car on a dyno, then wire up a VAFC and tune it! Or you could go Hondata as well.

:D
 

pills_PMD

Super Moderator
hell yea. the mugen clone's run rich as a motherfucker. i had one in my sol for a while, and my a/f gauge was buried RICH the entire ride, partial or WOT
 

Jeef

NO MA'AM
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Your octane booster is only boosting it up points, so you're really running like 93.8 not 98-100. Save your money.
 

posol

RETIRED
Staff member
i agree with everything above.

the mugen chip is IMO way to strong for a stock b16 internally, which you have. lean it out with a vafc or get a hondata system and get rid of that chip.

91-93 octane is fine for a b16. anymore and you are doing yourself no good

jeff is right about those boosters-- the boost points, not wholes.

And pull the codes- if you are getting a burp, chances are the ecu recorded it.
 

ALLJDM

Senior Member
I also i agree, but how long was the motor sitting before you installed it. Maybe you should drive it on the highway to blow some of the carbon out of the motor.... But you'll definatly need to dyno the car to really dial it in!
 
okay, after test driving today and getting a few other opinions from the guys I work with...we all agree with what you guys have said. its the ecu. Its not that its actually cutting out, its more like its popping and cracking and feels like its loosing power in and out as I give it gas. It backfires like a mofo as it is...so I feel I wasted my money on the chip. I would definately like to go to a hondata system after all the good reports I hear repeatedly on here. do they have prices listed on their site? also, the nearest dyno to where I live is still like over 100 miles away, so would I be better off getting the hondata and tryin to tune it myself on the dyno or is that something the shop would more than likely know how to do? (sorry, I have no experience what so ever with dynos. I live in Morehead, Kentucky, to make a long story short...redneck usa.) Thanks for your help guys.
 

HondasHateMe

Senior Member
Originally posted by honda_power69@Nov 11 2002, 11:28 PM
I live in Morehead, Kentucky, to make a long story short...redneck usa

:werd:

Where is the nearest dyno u know of??? I'm in southern Ohio, some of my buddies go to MSU. I doubt many shops around here tune Hondata, I don't know of any. I'd try a stock ecu tuned with a vafc route, tho dyno time would be more precise.
 
well, a couple guys I've talked to that tune race cars and shit said they had to go to Louisville. I can't remember the name of the shop...I'll have to ask and find out. I'll let ya know. By the way, where u at in southern ohio? not like ironton or ashland or huntington or anything is it? I know a few guys from up around there.
 

posol

RETIRED
Staff member
hondata.com has prices listed... you can buy from c-speedracing.com and other places all over the net.

get the system, hook it up - run a base program.
drive your ass to the dyno place
tune it
burn a new eprom chip for YOUR car drive home.
lather
repeat if desired
 

B16

Super Moderator
VIP
i have the mugen chip running my b16 now, and just recently had it tuned with the vafc, and yes it runs rich as shit! but, i did not get the same symtoms you are getting with mine, mine ran just fine but was very rich. do you have a friend with a stock vtec ecu you can use? plug that in and see if you notice a difference (besides vtec and rev limits being different)
 
okay, i'm beginning to think theres something very wrong with my timing. These symptoms seem to be progressively getting worse. At least, its worse now than a few days ago. Its to the point now where it almost wil not accelerate above 3500 rpm if i give it even a little more gas than normal. Im going to set the base timing tomorrow and check out my spark timing...I'll let you guys know what happens.
 
o, i almost forgot to mention...the damn tranny is really taking some getting used to lol. cant get used to it being geared that low at all...cruisin on interstate in 5th runnin almost 4k, definately a change for me.
 

S2easy

Junior Member
pressing gas and going nowhere... my S2k does the same thing... once i reach the VTEC point, the engine starts growling loud as hell, but the car doesnt react, and my RPM's start bouncing up and down.... wut do u guys think? when i go back to the dealer, im gonna tell him that it might be a fuel injection problem, atleast thats what i think it is.... :(
 
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