New B16 Swap Clutch Problem

[BLADE699]

lol i ran into a problem today with my clutch, turned out it was just my master cylinder loose, also try adjusting the pedal underneath the dash, its a 12mm nut you slack off adjust pedal and it might fix it. Pretty much allows you to adjust how far it goes before it starts engaging the clutch, from the floor, 2inchs is A LOT! mine starts engaging 3/4inch off the floor, makes for smoother speed shifting and rev matching.
(I do track racing so i like it that quick)

Also the noise is most likely your throw out bearing (if its making the noise when the pedal is down) just means it needs to be replaced.

 

[CAFROG]

Yeah....I thought about changing it after I talked to a mechanic.

Looked under there again today and I see some fluid (not much...level in resevoir is still high)

I'm going to change it and adjusting the nut sounds like an idea but I was told that they're 'not' adjustable. I see what you're talking about but it doesn't seem like a lot of thread to play with

The thread that is perpendicular to or pointing at the firewall...?

Does anyone know the direction to go? Its a small space and I have pretty big hands....its going to be a headache under the dash.

Hoping to change it and Adjust it all, then re-install it. Wishful thinking?

 

[CAFROG]

Sorry...I meant to ask if it was the adjustable thread bolt that is pointing at the firewall....Perpendicular, as well...

But I re-read it...confused me, so I wanted to correct myself

 

[BLADE699]

yea i had to do this today in the rain lol,

pull your seat back so you got space, get comfortable lay down underneath with a flash light.

on the clutch pedal you'll see a bracket with a bolt going through it and a nut behind it. basically its your master cylinder that's attached to it.

get a 12mm wrench, spin the nut clock wise to loosen

once loosen back it away, and start spinning the "bolt" counter clock wise to pretty much pull the pedal back towards the firewall. once you did that hand tighten the nut back and test it to see if you like the feel of how fast it engages.

 

[BLADE699]

but I was told that they're 'not' adjustable. I see what you're talking about but it doesn't seem like a lot of thread to play with

there is an inch of thread, if you don't have cruise control then that's even better for you because there is usually a button the pedal releases from to disengage cruise control when you press it.

anyway, the pedal is definitely adjustable ive done it sooo many times. you just goto do it a few to understand how you want to set it, and what will happen if you set it a certain way.

 

[CAFROG]

Well...I adjusted it and the noise/grinding I had when the clutch is fully depressed went away.

I used to have a 6 puck clutch with my LS swap and a spring popped off the disc...blowing my clutch. I used to be a grocery cashier and a regular cutomer was a mechanic. He had the guts to an LS trans but a cracked housing. He took my housing and put the guts into it.

We were told that you couldn't adjust the clutch but he said he adjusted it a little (not like a cable clutch....supposedly) But I forgot about it until you gave me the info....

You're the man! Rep points coming your way for sure!!

Gonna get another clutch master cylinder soon (OEM) mayeb this weekend but its supposed to rain here too.

I don't think the throw out bearing will happen for a month or so. (rain and other stuff planned on the weekend)

Thanks Again!!

 

[CAFROG]

Glad you got yours running.

Let me know if you find another 5-speed USDM p30 ECU

I need it for smog

 

[CAFROG]

oops...I meant that that spring on the 6 puck blew my trans and clutch...not just the clutch

 

[BLADE699]

Howd it manage to blow your transmission too? interesting. Well no problem glad it helped.

Lol its kinda of funny you got yours fixed because today on my way to work i hit vtec and went to change gears and my clutch was completely gone, my pedal was to the floor and won't come back up, i had pull over.

I've come to the conclusion that its the clutch plate fingers, that goes bad when it gets hot (softens), because when i sat for a while it started to work again slowly.

thats what i get for using an old clutch but i had to.

 

[CAFROG]

Don't get the XTR clutch like I did. Weak Sauce

Its weak and waste of money. I am seriously contemplating getting a whole new set up....I 'have to' take the trans out and replace that stupid aftermarket throw out bearing and I am thinking about the clutch too....and then you asked about the lightened flywheel.....?

 

[HATCHET_HONDA]

Sorry that I didn't say earlier...but gears shift fine. I just stay off the floor an inch or so and gear change (even quick shifts at high rpm) is fine. Just this noise I hear when its at idle and neutral plus the noise/hard shift into gears when pedal is fully depressed.

Transmission went together fine. I set the clutch with the alignment tool and transmission went right in (I turned the crank in gear) It set itself as we hovered the trans into the engine with the dowels. I am pretty sure the install went well.

Just might be this cheap Clutch set up I bought (hoping its only the bearing). I have never heard of XTR but its simply a mild clutch that is roughly stock feel. I paid less then $300 for flywheel and clutch kit and I regret not getting a OEM throw out bearing....and an Excedy or ACT clutch.

i have used the xtr brand clutch before..never had a problem and it grabbed really good. the input shaft bearing or "pilot" bearing goes in the flywheel. it supports the end of the input shaft

 

[CAFROG]

How'd the XTR throw out bearing work out for you? I think mine is poop but will find out after I order a OEM one and take trans off

My clutch grabs ok but I was hoping for something a little more aggressive. Its way stock in the grab and pressure needed to depress the clutch/

 

[HATCHET_HONDA]

how'd the xtr throw out bearing work out for you? I think mine is poop but will find out after i order a oem one and take trans off

my clutch grabs ok but i was hoping for something a little more aggressive. Its way stock in the grab and pressure needed to depress the clutch/

what stage did you get? I have a stage 3

 

[CAFROG]

Mine was the stage one....so it was supposed to be 'mild' but I thought it would be different then the stock clutch on my LS swap....its the only comparison I have.

Could be a feeling based on my LS and B16 being different motors. They are quite different. I haven't tried to launch with it yet. I have around 250 on the clutch now.

 

[CAFROG]

Drove the car on the highway and the cruise control doesn't work....wonder if that has to do with the adjustment on the clutch master cylinder?

Changing it out tomorrow...see if that fixes it....

 

[CAFROG]

Clutch Master Cylinder went in today.

Clutch seems to grab better and I don't have to worry about the grease form the piston getting all over the inside of my car anymore.

Throw Out is still whistling but 3 people have told me it 'could' go away because it's new.

I did grease the throw out a little and the fork a little....thin layer (instructions told me to) when I initially installed it.

Maybe it will go away but I'm happy to fix a few things today.

Cruise didn't work after I adjusted the clutch pedal height but I figured that out today by adjusting the switch to engage on the pedal in its new place. Funny how fixing glitches makes me happy.....makes it more fun to drive the car

 

[HATCHET_HONDA]

Clutch Master Cylinder went in today.

Clutch seems to grab better and I don't have to worry about the grease form the piston getting all over the inside of my car anymore.

Throw Out is still whistling but 3 people have told me it 'could' go away because it's new.

I did grease the throw out a little and the fork a little....thin layer (instructions told me to) when I initially installed it.

Maybe it will go away but I'm happy to fix a few things today.

Cruise didn't work after I adjusted the clutch pedal height but I figured that out today by adjusting the switch to engage on the pedal in its new place. Funny how fixing glitches makes me happy.....makes it more fun to drive the car

whaaa?? the clutch has nothing to do with cruise control..its controlled by a module and a cable

 

[madracer]

whistle noise on the clutch

I hear a whistle noise at idle now. I push the clutch in an inch and it goes away. Sound seems like its coming from the slave cylinder. LS slave all good?

The whistle you hear is the Clutch throw out bearing, I had the same problem and when I replace the throw out bearing the whistle went away. If you take the tranny down to replace the throw out bearing then you should replace the clutch cylinder at the same time, its not to expensive to put a new one. Better put a new one than use a old used one even doh it works good.

 

[CAFROG]

Cruise is ran by a kill switch on the clutch (so when you want to turn the cruise off...you push the clutch in). There is a push switch ran behind the actual clutch pedal....check it out...its there.

Throw out bearing is what I think too. I am NOT taking that stupid trans out right now. But if the noise gets worse or doesn't go away...I will tear it out soon

 

[HATCHET_HONDA]

ahhh i see what your saying...i was thinkin you were saying the clutch itself was causing cruise problems, but isnt it pressing the brake what disengages the cruise? ive only had ef hatches as far as hondas go but every other car it was the brake that turned it off.