New here but not to swapped hondas.. High compression LSV on a budget

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You have done a very good build, you don't need to go crazy and do those other things you listed.

I had very good numbers with the AEBS manifold on my GSR head. I spent a lot of time researching and AEBS has been one of the only companies until recently that actually designed a manifold to properly orient the airflow with the GSR head. The head was designed to accept the inverted manifold design.

If I were you I would only change a couple things considering you already have a decent manifold.

Better header, even a chinese hytech copy would be an increase from what you have. $300

Some better cams, I had good luck with Skunk Pro 1s but others have not. I also went and had them properly tuned. $550ish plus $200 for more dyno time.

So for another grand call it, your budget build is still in the budget range and you are probably putting down something like 210whp based on your current numbers. That would be a hell of budget build in my opinion.


Either way great build, solid numbers for sure.
 
How much money do you have into your build anyways?
 
I like the build too.

Holy VTEC kick on that dyno sheet. I'm in no way a tuner but wouldn't a smoother transition be better for road racing? (and longevity)
Also.....in your opinion, is it worth pulling to 9K+ when it's tapering off around 8.2K? I figure it puts you at a nice spot with the next gear. B16B trans will be crazy with that FD. My Type R trans 3rd to 4th is only 1200 rpm drop

Did you shot peen the LS rods or just leave them?

Plasti- gauge for bearing clearance or just the codes on each rod?
 
I have already had the intake cam adjusted almost all the way out with no issues, the geargot messed up while on the dyno though, there is more room than people seem to think

remember your not on the vtec lobs when the engine is off or low rpm, you must lock up the rockers then check you P2V clearance.
 
I like the build too.

Holy VTEC kick on that dyno sheet. I'm in no way a tuner but wouldn't a smoother transition be better for road racing? (and longevity)
Also.....in your opinion, is it worth pulling to 9K+ when it's tapering off around 8.2K? I figure it puts you at a nice spot with the next gear. B16B trans will be crazy with that FD. My Type R trans 3rd to 4th is only 1200 rpm drop

Did you shot peen the LS rods or just leave them?

Plasti- gauge for bearing clearance or just the codes on each rod?

I think the rpm makes a difference. Even though the ctr cams don't make more power past a certain point, they do a fairly good job at holding it before dropping off rapidly after 9500. Rods are not shot peened. Oem codes although you have to shave the rods just a bit for the pct pistons.
 
remember your not on the vtec lobs when the engine is off or low rpm, you must lock up the rockers then check you P2V clearance.

Well, we were doing pulls with it when the exhaust cam gear got screwed up, it failed.. bad part. No clearance issues. I mean you know how it goes on a dyno, make a pull, adjust, make another pull, if you made gains and everything looks good, stop, adjust a little farther, make another pull. Its a crap shoot sometimes to see how the motor responds to what, because every one of them is different.
 
How much money do you have into your build anyways?

I really couldn't tell you. I mean I got some deals, 200 dollar head, already had the block etc. I know people have done lsv's a lot cheaper, but in my opinion this is what id consider a cheap build because I went with what I felt was the bare minimum to make a fun somewhat reliable motor. Also the use of almost all oem parts and peices internally.
 
No, he's saying on the low lobe, the valves don't get pulled as high as they aren't running on the high cam profile for the lift and duration.
 
Nice! Similar to my build, except I'm using a B18C block and crank. Same pistons on E85 as well.

I made 200whp on mine with Blox HSL cams. I found that changing out my header and going 3" made a huge difference ~+10whp.
 
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