Oil Consumption

lsvtec

GNU/Linux Evangelist
My motor is eating oil fast. Like 1/2 quart every other tank of gas. I can't seem to figure out why. I replaced the pistons and rings with a cylinder hone about 2000 miles ago. I broke the new motor in for 1000 miles usign the proper engine break in procedure posted in the FAQ. The car puffs white smoke at high RPM (like > 7000) otherwise it does not smoke. I checked the VTEC oil line, it is not leaking or damaged. I can't figure out where the oil is going. Any suggestions?
 

lsvtec

GNU/Linux Evangelist
That is what I am thinking. Seeing how I have never replaced either can either of them be changed with the head on the motor? I think the seals can but valve guides cannot.
 

CRX-YEM

Super Moderator
Moderator
VIP
yeah the seal could prolly be done with the head bolted on the motor. but to do the guides, you gotta take the valves out completely. it'd be easier to do both at the same time.
 

tb820

Junior Member
Get a leak down test done. That way you can determine exactly where you are leaking oil from. If you intend to replace the valve seals with the head still intact, set the specific cylinder to TDC before doing so. Make sure that you have a good hold of the valve when you remove the keepers, otherwise the valve will fall into the cylinder.... and that's a biznitch. I don't know, someone correct if I'm wrong, but you can also probably replace the guides at the same time.
 

lsvtec

GNU/Linux Evangelist
As I thought to replace the guides you have to have the valves out, which means head off. Damn. It sounds like my head may be coming off next month.
 

lsvtec

GNU/Linux Evangelist
Does a machine shop have to do it? If so this will wait until I can afford Skunk2 valves and do it all at once.
 

lsvtec

GNU/Linux Evangelist
Are the Skunk2 Bronze valve guides worth getting? I am planning to get Skunk2 valves as soon as I can afford them.
 

knowledge

Senior Member
I am planning on getting a whole skunk2 head package. I am getting the standard compression valves. I imagine the high compression valves kick ass! Skunk2 is like one of the top 5 N/A companies in my book! I am gonna see how well they work out for the turbo application.
 

CRX-YEM

Super Moderator
Moderator
VIP
I would say yes to the bronze guides. bronze for some reason (and I don't feel like gettin out the chem book) actually hold more oil on the surface than other metals I believe. I'll get a better answer for ya in a bit. Bronze I believe creates an ionic bond with some of the chemicals in the oil to create a better seal. they will last much longer as well
 

lsvtec

GNU/Linux Evangelist
I know the website said that stainless steel valves wear stock guides down very quickly, but these bronze ones can stand up to stainless steel much better. All right, I think I have decided to get them even if I can't afford new valves at the moment.
 

SolidDreamz

Senior Member
Are the valve seats and valve seals the same thing? If you replace the valve seals and the valves are worn out a bit, wouldnt it still leak? I pulled my head off to replace the head gasket and the car never smoked bad before, but i pulled the valves out and cleaned off the carbon deposits and put it back together. Now it smokes real bad. Is that because the carbon deposits could have actually have formed a seal on the valve so it seated right since the valves were old and now that i cleaned em thats why im blowing smoke out so bad?
 

knowledge

Senior Member
Originally posted by SolidDreamz@Oct 23 2002, 03:49 PM
Are the valve seats and valve seals the same thing?

No! The seals seal around the shaft of the valve. The seats seal the valve to the head in the combustion chamber. The valves shouldn't wear down like the seal will! Because you pulled the valves out and cleaned them oil is probably bypassing the seals. the deposits on your valve were probably helping to keep the seal between the valves and the valve seals. I would recommend you give it a week to see if it burns off. If it still smokes then I would replace the seals!
 
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