P54 ECU - Difference between auto & m/t version?

[dilbeckskate]

Yes comparing stop maps is pissing in the wind, to make most power and engine run best you need to socket the ecu and get it tuned professionally, and difference mainly in usdm vs jdm motors is usually in the cams

 

[CQB18B]

If you want it to run at peak efficiency I'd get the ecu chipped and tuned, otherwise I think you would be splitting hairs between the usdm and jdm ecus. I have read that the jdm ecus have a more aggressive tune but I have no way to back that up other than hearsay. Does it seem to run any different now?

I've only had it in for a couple days so no longer term observations yet. It seems to be running pretty much the same as it was. Chipping and tuning $s are in the future though

 

[dilbeckskate]

You arent going to notice a difference between stockers end of discussion

 

[CAFROG]

Thank you for acknowledging and appreciating our knoweldge/feedback.

In my opinion....Stock ECU unless you have aggressive cams (definitely must be above stage 1 cams) or forced induction.

Header, intake and 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust will get you around 25hp to the crank.....so 18-20whp gain for $500-1100 (depending on brands and if they're new or used). Or (at least) triple that amount and run turbo to get 200-225whp total and have a fun handful to drive.

A chip and dyno tune will add more if you have those bolt ons. How much more after bolt ons? 10-25whp is my guess. You could get close to 150whp with bolt ons, socketed ECU and dyno tune. Socketed/chipped ECU and dyno tune....probably $500-600.