Planning Out My Suspension

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9

98integrals

Senior Member
ok, its winter time up here and it really blows. So i have nothing better to do than plan out whats goin on with my car. After realizin that im not gonna have the $(fuck college) to get AGX/groundcontrols that i wanted, i think im gonna settle on either eibach prokit or sportlines and kyb gr-2s.

later on this summer if i can find an itr rear antisway bar i will pic that up, or if not what would be a decent alternative? I think im set on my tires with my slipstreams/parada spec 2s... but thats all i have as of now lol, so that doesnt help much.

any comments/suggestions?
 
if you are looking to set up for autocross the first thing i would suggest is to figure out what class you want to be in and see what mods are allowed... its really easy to do something simple that will throw you in a class with fully modified race cars
 
ok ... welp if you are interested in the eibachs check out suspension techniques they are the SAME (my friend has purchaced both we compared them) and they cost 20-50 less

also look into the suspension techniques sway bar/ tie bar kit.... its designed for your car and will not give you the problems that an ITR bar can cause ... also the tie bar that it comes with is one of the most impressive bar i have ever seen
 
i would go with a rear sway bar first. I have seen a few pics of your car at autoXs and it looked like you were trying to flip the car. Then look at some good springs and struts.

In the next few months (pre april) i am going to get teins with pillowmounts, sway bar and energy suspention poly. bushings. hopefully that will eliminate some of those pesky enconters with cones.
 
The AGX over the GR-2's is $100 more total on NOPI. I'd do that instead. Then save and buy quality coilovers: Ground Control. I like my Zero1's, but wouldn't want them on a car I'd drive for another 5 years. They ride a bit hard, which is good in heavy cornering, but sucks on highways which I drive everyday to school.
 
well, i just found out that i can get an ITR rear sway bar for like $90 (so im told) and there is a guy that sells reinforcement kits on TI.net for like $20... so that might be what i go for.

here are prices that i have *estamated* from tirerack.com
ITR rear sway bar- $110-130 (?)
Eibach Sportlines(1.5-2")- $195 or (just found) H&R Race springs(1.75-2")- $162
KYB GR2- $200

does anyone have the spring rates for the eibachs/H&Rs?
 
yo dude youc an still run in the stock class with aftermarket struts, and some nice tires..

i'd suggest ground control/kyb agx (you already picked that, good man)
then an suspension tech sway bar in the rear

i think this is gonna put you in the street prepared class, but i can't really remember.
 
yes and no, you can put new struts and stuff like that one but your car can't be below stock levels. As soon as it is lowered (how many good springs are oem height?) you are in street modified. A 100% car with an intake puts you in street mod.

The only thing your allow to do is run good tires and have exhaust in stock class.
 
i think runnin a tire size that isnt an option on the vehicle also will take me out of G-stock (ive got 16"). But i dont really give a shit, i prolly wont win even in g-stock anyway... and winning isnt everything to me, i just love driving the shit out of my car, and i want to be able to push it harder and harder... of course i also need to learn more about it (only been in 4 autox best finish=4ht)... anyway im gettin o/t sorry lol.

i just drove my bros 96 teg se and hes got ground controls and tokico blues, if i could afford them i would get groundcontrols, but i really dont think i can right now :angry: .

anyway, class isnt too big of a deal, i just go to have fun
 
mounting_kit_picture.jpg


$20!?!?!? for that? hahaha
 
Originally posted by asmallsol@Jan 25 2003, 02:14 PM
i would go with a rear sway bar first. I have seen a few pics of your car at autoXs and it looked like you were trying to flip the car. Then look at some good springs and struts.
Click to expand...

Here's my opinion...

A "sway bar" is not the fix to that. It will fix the body roll, yes, but it will sacrifice traction in tight cornering. The point of good springs is to get your suspension characteristics (spring rates, ride height/corner-weighting, camber, damping, rebound, etc) dialed in and KEEP it there. Simply putting a "sway bar" in stock suspension is a band-aid.... it will raise the outside wheel as the force of the body roll raises the inside wheel, thus giving you a complete loss of traction, since your stock springs won't hold your settings. If you do get traction in that situation, it will make the car jump and twist and come around too fast for good tires, or braking, or instinct steering to compensate.

Springs are what control body roll, IMHO. Get some 600 rears and 450 fronts (or for pure racing, 800 and 600), ground control or true choice (same thing, i think) coilovers with adjustable struts (Koni, KYB...). I would recommend getting double-valved **** for any spring at or over like 525-ish, just so you don't wear the struts out, and maintain body control in tight cornering. Get the Mugen hard-rubber rear trailing arm bushings... they're about $120 for the pair, and count on a day to take your rear suspension to the machine shop to have them pressed in. Then, get your strut braces and tie bar. Get your corner-weighting done, along with your alignment check/fix done, with you in the car. When you get all that done, and get your tire temperatures consistent across runs, then you should use that, tire pressure, and driving style together to determine whether you need a rear anti-sway bar. If you add a rear anti-sway bar, you should always thicken the front one to maintain a ratio. Messing with the ratio (see GT3) has drastic implications.

But again, this is just an opinion, and it's based on a smooth, balls-out driving style. You can see my coilovers in action at my WWW.

Cheers!!
-x

**** (not neccessarily double-adjustable, you can send single-valved Konis back to get them double-valved, and they're still only single-adjustable)
 
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