Please help ID my b18. C1,c5,..??

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Check engine light does NOT come on when key is initially put to the "on" position?

If so, I would get that CEL light working 1st. Maybe it's unhooked or maybe you need a new bulb. Once it's working, super easy to check the codes if you go through a short sequence.

If you see burn marks on ECU board and want to get a new set up, a P06 is what I said it was (non-vtec) but a reputable company can modify it (chip it) to work well with your current B-series longblock. Its cheaper than a P28 or P72. Just make sure its for a manual transmission. If you go this route, (some new ECU) I'd get it socketed, (to hook up to a laptop) and you can have a dyno tuner modify the tune (if you make changes later).

But, once again, I'd work on electrical wiring and checking all of their work. Well.....I'd personally rip all the "tucked" out and put a D16Z6 or B18C1 engine harness. Basic-bland kinda stuff. Staying the same OBD would be my preferene.

Probably lots of wiring went behind the fenders an into the cabin....that all should be checked if multimeter dictates to check for continuity.

:concur:
 
Thanks buddy. Lot of good info. Now that i think about it, I did find one of those little bulbs with the blue rubber coating in between the seats.. sounds like a CEL bulb to me. Ha.
 
Since I don't have an o2 sensor. My motor runs rich. Is There any tune that would help with that. Or do i FOR SURE have to get one (o2 sensor) rigged up somehow before tune.
 
I found a thread on someone who hardwired a secondary o2 sensor to his ecu. But it was for obd2. So 2 questions. 1.) Am I missing TWO o2 sensors?!?! [Since i have none].
2.) Is There a way to install some wires in the correct places in my ecu harness and run them through my floor panel to the o2 sensor hole in my exhaust?
I would literally send someone $20 If I end up with a working o2 sensor.
[If that's legal for this site]
 
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Since I don't have an o2 sensor. My motor runs rich. Is There any tune that would help with that. Or do i FOR SURE have to get one (o2 sensor) rigged up somehow before tune.

so the plot thickens

looked around a lot and found that many tuners are disabling closed loop mode and tuning full and partial throttle maps to run in open loop mode at all times rendering the O2 sensor unused
generally in this case you would want to install a wide band O2 and a fuel air gauge showing the actual AFR

your tuner will tune with a wide band O2 sensor anyway

i would recommend talking to tuners in your area and getting their opinion on this

if you are somewhere with rather steady weather without wide temp swings you may be fine without the O2

you may need to go back a few times for some fine tuning of the fuel maps (some will do this at no charge)


I found a thread on someone who hardwired a secondary o2 sensor to his ecu. But it was for obd2. So 2 questions. 1.) Am I missing TWO o2 sensors?!?! [Since i have none].
2.) Is There a way to install some wires in the correct places in my ecu harness and run them through my floor panel to the o2 sensor hole in my exhaust?
I would literally send someone $20 If I end up with a working o2 sensor.
[If that's legal for this site]

1.) no that is just for OBD-2 cars
2.) you might not need to, reach out to tuners in your area and get their recommendations, if they tune open loop and disable closed loop anyway then the O2 will not be used anyway
 
I live in Texas. Home of the fluctuating weather patterns.
But I'll talk to the tuner and see what they think. Big big help man.
 
If the tuner decides the better route is an o2 sensor and I attempt to wire one myself. Is this the info I need.
This would be wiring an o2 as if it were a wideband. Is that possible? Or correct thinking?
Screenshot_20170804-234110.png
And second on this lower pic. Slot 14 is primAry heated o2. Could I buy a 3 or 4 wire universal o2 and ground a wire, run power(12v) to one and then the other to this number 14 slot??
Screenshot_20170805-001150.png
 
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the p72 comment was going by title on identify my b18 and it was stated it was vtec, idk man take it to a tuner or a import shop if not mechanically inclined enough to figure it out, it needs to be tuned and probably has other misc isses that wont show until ecu is reading live data correctly , this is why you dont buy peoples swap nightmares, we will get it figured out though but ecu is priority #1
 
I don't mind getting it tuned. That's my goal. I just don't want to get excited Bout dyno day! Shell out 300 for dyno 400 for hondata just for the tuner to tell me this isn't going to work right without o2. But looks like my only choice. I appreciate y'all guys taking the time to help. I get overwhelmed reading old threads with non working links and expired pictures
 
also b20v with a p72 is perfectly fine, yes fuel maps are SLIGHTLY leaner in certain areas but not enough to cause any problems in the very least if anything would make more power stock honda maps are too rich anyways
 
and yes you need a o2 the ecu needs it to make a/f corrections, but welcome to the game lol youre going to spend 300 getting it tuned and a few hundred on dyno to see it makes under 200whp lol and its all good man the info is still here and we are happy to help people wanting to learn and trying to fix their stuff
 
So pretty much. There's no way to wire an o2 on your own? [o2 to ecu]
So im left with, ripping out the wiring harness and putting another one in, all because i need the o2 harness wires.. What harness should i go with. Gsr harness because of the motor? Not del sol?. And should I cut my losses and sell the car. [Which would break my heart]
 
any usdm obd1 honda harness d/b will work fine, and yes the wires can be ran, this is one of those things man really cant diagnose without standing there looking at it , possibility they have the o2 sensor wire and plug hidden where ever they are tucking the rest of the stock harness if they didnt go for a aftermarket one
 
I've been reading And it seems as though everyone's saying [ on old threads] that with no o2 sensor my car should be smoking. Which it's not. Like at all. I do know for sure there is no o2. And the only indication is bad gas mileage and that i visually saw that it was missing. So is there a small chance previous owner might have some kind of tune or a "no o2" map on this ecu? Just trying to figure out if my cars ok to drive. Saw something about my car might be in limp mode and could mess up the timing?? Seems to be decently powerful and vtec still kicks in.
 
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contact a tuner
schedule some time
get it tuned / verify the tune

if you are not experiencing a very low RPM limit with no power then you are not in limp mode
 
Doing some Prepping the car for dyno research. Do y'all think the bung I have coming off this no name header is ok enough for the tuner to use for wideband. Or do i need another one thats bigger or better accessible?
20170804_161519.jpg
20170804_161640.jpg
 
that should be fine
 
To wire up the O2....you need the pins that are used to set wires into the corresponding ECU plug. Get that plug from a junk yard (cut 4-6" pigtails) and you'll have a bunch of pins off pigtail ends to solder to you're wiring from the O2 (or VTEC or Knock or IAB's or etc.)

Pics of wiring looks kinda like ffsquad.net If so...I trust the info. They got info on removing and installing these pins too. Lots of good info there.

Get the CEL bulb working. That's priority IMO. Talk to a tuner. Help him understand the situation and this unknown chip. Many tuners don't want your car gremlins to show up with you to your appointment. They want all that crap taken care of. Hopefully you can find a more sympathetic tuner.
 
The O2 wiring could still be attached at the ECU plug. If so, track it down and see where it goes. May be less work than I first thought.
 
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