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kyle h.

Junior Member
are cross drilled and slotted rottors going to help your 60-0 stopping distance any? i have been told it wont and have been told it will. i read an article in motor trend. they seemed to focus mainly on the tires for stopping. if i get the brembo cross drilled and slotted rottors for all 4 wheels and get stainless lines, will this help me noticably? or would i actually need a larger caliper or stronger master cylinder? im looking for personal experiences...not technical bullshit, or theories
Ever since getting my slotted and drilled rotors up front (with stock pads, lines and calipers), I've noticed no brake fade under heavy braking (nothing like autocross or anything like that though). I think they're worth it, I'm sure that others will tell you they're not. However, I don't think just stainless lines will help your performance any. They only let you run high-pressure DOT 5 fluid with something like 4-piston calipers.
If they do, I'd think it would be nominal. But hey, why not install them if you have them, it would just entice you to fully upgrade your brake system. :D
well here's the techy theory BS

while braking to slow the vehicle, under certain conditions outgasing from the brake pad occurs, it can create a film (more like an air gap) between the rotor and the pads. sometimes called brake fading.

Drilled and slotted rotors I get a little weary of if they are not manufactured by a reputable company. drilling them arbitrarily can decrease the mechanical limts of the rotor.

So will slotted and drilled rotors help you stop better , shorten your stopping distance?
sometimes, depends on the conditions.

you can also achieve better shorter braking distances by using a different material brake pad, like ebc green, or red.

IMHO a slotted rotor is good enough for street use. helps get rid of the outgasing fumes.

It never hurts to upgrade your brakeing system, larger master cylinder, 4piston calipers, etc... wilwood or something similar
I was under the impression that brake fade was caused by the brake fluid boiling under high-temperature conditions. This is where DOT 5 fluid and stainless steel lines come into play. DOT 5 will have a higher boiling point, which in turn requires a higher maximum pressure (Ideal Gas Law: pv=nrt), hence the required stainless steel lines.

Edit: For those who have trouble with chemistry (like myself), pv-nrt means
pressure x volume = n (a constant) x r (a "gas constant", depends on the fluid present) x temperature
So as temperature increases, to keep the equation balanced, pressure does as well.
yeah brake fade is mainly caused by brake fluid boiling, but the effects of outgasing feel the same as a brake fade
i use motul rbf 600, it is DOT 4, silly wilwoods wont accept DOT 5, but i guess 600 is a good boiling point :)
do you guys (4 luggers (4x100)) use and simple brake upgrades for the front calipers? i have a 3rd gen prelude and i have heard that 4th gen rotors will fit...but they dont really appeal to me...i was looking for dual piston or something...i found some, but its a british company. anything else?
4 piston wilwood's up front baby, oh ya...

sorry, i love posting that pic ;)
DOT5 is Silicone, outside of racing (Like lemans) noone uses it. I am not sure that racers use it anymore. It absorbs water quickly, and eats through any rubber seals in your brake system. DON'T USE IT. Get some Motul 600 RBF or the likes. It is DOT4 that boils at higher temps than the silicone and it is compatable with stock brake systems.
Originally posted by B16@Oct 15 2002, 06:17 PM
4 piston wilwood's up front baby, oh ya...

something a little cheaper i was thinking...
Motul brake fluid is sweet- got some DOT4 in my car right now.

Stainless braided lines won't make you stop any faster, but they don't flex and bulge like rubber lines- so you'll have more control and less mush in your brake pedal. You will feel the difference.

Slotted/drilled rotors will not make you stop any better unless you're outgassing your pads.. I've experienced this several times on my stock brake setup, and it sucks.

Slotting your rotors is good for avoiding outgassing/glazing your pads. Cross-drilling is really just for weight reduction so your rotational mass is less, and you get better acceleration and suspension response. Cross drilling has the bad effect of reducing surface area on your disc though, so it can have a negative effect on your braking performance. Slotting does not reduce surface area nearly as much as cross-drilling, and it has more function... I would much rather have one extra pound in my rotors if it meant that I was stopping faster.

If you really want it, run slotted rotors on the street, but avoid the cross drilled models- sometimes they can crack, and it really doesn't do much for you.
i'll tell you what though, those brakes are worth it. 650 for the whole kit, and my car stops on a freakin dime :) the rear disc conversion has helped too, but i feel much safer in my car now knowing that i can stop. the stock dx brakes on my car were just scary to me.
I have crossed drilled rotors and I noticed the difference. I drive down a mountain like 2-3 times a week and it really helps the brake fade! Just make sure which ever rout you go, get some good quality pads!
Quality pads will make the biggest difference if you leave everything the stock size. Hawk HPS's man.
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