Stage 1 Weight Reduction

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webink_EK9

Senior Member
Now I'm having fun and getting my hands messy. I Pulled out the seats, carpet, rear side plastic stuff and removed some old dynamat out of my car lastnight. It's startin to get fun. Only think is, I'm not looking forward to removing the black soundproof shit from my car. There's too much of it. How much time and/or $$ would it take for somewhere to take that out for me? I don't feel like getting that stuff all over me. And after I get it out, can I use some kind of sander or something to smooth the it out then have a primer sprayed? Let me know any thoughts. Thanks!
 
about 20lbs of dry ice, putty knife and a hammer is all you need. If you feel like repainting it sand it down with a DA and prime it.
 
Wire wheel and a putty knife sounds good to use to me and maybe a heat gun but that would get messy.
 
In terms of sending it off somewhere to get stripped........dont even bother. You'll be paying a shop by the hour and end up waisting tons of cash.
You might want to check the sport compact car website (www.sportcompactcarweb.com), in either an EG civic, or one of their CRX projects (cant remember which one) they used Dry ice to freeze the soundproofing, then smashed it with a hammer and it cracked off in large chunks. I used this method on my first Civic and it worked so much better than trying to use a plaster spreader and a flat head skrewdriver. Took me and a friend a day or so to complete. We then took off the remaining crap with the plaster spreader thingy, sanded with coarse sandpaper, then wet sanded with some fine paper, primed it, and a quick paint job to match everything else. Worked well. So go find some dry ice (not as hard as you might think), and have fun smashing things into small pieces.
Wish I had pics to show you....sorry.

L8rSk8r.

....seems when I was writing this someone already replied with the same info.....oops! well here it is again!
 
Im guessing your next question is going to be where to get it, try a local supermarket or ice cream store. ;)
 
...or better yet pretend to be a student and go to a college and buy some Liquid N2!!!
 
Both the AC and PS can be removed to lighten the pulley load as well as the weight savings.
 
No PS or AC now. Stage2 Looking at removing shit within the dash. Like all the wiring and crap for the AC and Radio and stuff. Got a big hole where the radio and temp controls used to go already. Stage3 probably removing bumper beams and and side impact beams in doors. And any other non support metal in the car.
And DO NOT use liquid nitrogen...when you try to scrape the black shit off you'll put your screw driver right through the car...but don't ask me how I know. I guess I can try the dry ICE. There's an ICE and FUEL place around here. How long will that shit last? Keep it in a cooler? I'll start on that tomorrow.
Oh yeah...anyone know if I can take off that center front grill thinggy with the H on it without taking off the front bumper? I was looking at it lastnight and I popped those black things off the top, but there's screws holding it to the bumper. I don't know if I'll be able to get to that or not...what do you guys think?
 
Tight CaaaaaaRRRRRRRRRR!

Yeah, but if I don't need it, why not. And if I'm going to stand a chance in my class, I'm going to have to go on a fucking diet to run with some of these cars. All excess weight must go... SlimFast in the gas tank!!!
 
Originally posted by E_SolSi+-->
E_SolSi) said:
ok here goes

remove the seats and carpet from the car so you can see all of the sound deadening tar now you are ready to start

there are 2 basic methods of removing the sound deadening tar from your car
1 is heat
2 is cold

1- heat generally leaves a messy residue all over the flooring ( i didnt do it this way do im not too much help here)
but here goes
using a heat gun (or hair dryer {much slower}) and a 1-2" putty knife or a wide flat screwdriver heat the tar up so it is pliable and pry it up with the putty knife keep doing this untill its all gone


2- cold is a little more expensive but generally leaves everything much cleaner (this is the method i used)
it helps to not do this on a 90*+ day like i did
get some dry ice from a local supplier (check the yellow pages) i got 30lbs (about $35 worth) i had lots left over but i only had the 2 seats in the del sol four seat cars will probly use all 30 lbs

******WEAR GLOVES****** A block of dry ice has a surface temperature of -109.3 degrees F (-78.5 degrees C) this will pretty much fuck you up if you touch it.... so dont.... also its CO2 and as it "melts" it turns directly into carbon dioxide gas.... use it in a decently ventalated area.... and take frequent breaks to BREATH

lay the dry ice on the tar for several minutes (at least 10) i found covering the largest area i could then removing small areas at a time worked best... this keeps everything cold just move the ice as you go
using a chissel or large flat screwdriver chip at the tar and large chunks of it should come away nice and cleany with little or no residue left on the floor... repeat till your done


Sed8ed

I ended up using the "cold" method too except I used liquid nitrogen (CAUTION: extremely cold, -190 degrees celsius), the tar actually constrict and shatters off the metal leaving little work for you to do. Other friends of mine have used solvents to remove the tar but if you do this WEAR A MASK! and work in a well ventilated area.
 
If you are worried about weight, take the rear bumper off and cut off the un needed metal back there, I took mine off and had my neighbor cut the unwanted/needed metal off. Just on the edges and the back side of the bumper. Mine was too rusted to go any furhter. Can post pics if you are interested. Keep in mind the bumper I refer to is off a CRX so it may be different.
 
Thanks guys! Do you smash up the dry ice or leave it in the block? And do you put it in a cooler or what when you move it?
 
Originally posted by webink_EK9@May 5 2004, 10:01 AM
Thanks guys! Do you smash up the dry ice or leave it in the block? And do you put it in a cooler or what when you move it?

It usually doesn't come in a big block, it will come in small pellets (at least thats how I got it), so you can just spread it out evenly over a small area. A cooler is totally fine for transportation. To keep the majority of the dry ice contained and cool, get a thermos and fill it with enough to keep you working for a small while....this way your not constantly opening and closing your big cooler, exposing the bulk to warm temperatures. But dont get me wrong here.......that dry ice stays freeeezing cold for a very long time.
 
mine came in sheets about 10" square x 1" thick

i guess it depends where you get it
 
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