YBLEGAL
Regular Member w/ Cheese
idk man. i've always heard OBX sucks real bad. it's made of what seems to be the right materials. it's up to you if you want to chance it. i'm sticking with a name brand, such as Full-Race.
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(my buddy ran that one for a while with no issue untill he had to upgrade to a larger flow for his new larger turbo, and my other buddy will continue it's use), with tig welds, you'll be just fine!
Gas tungsten arc welding (GTAW), also known as tungsten inert gas (TIG) welding.... ...GTAW is most commonly used to weld thin sections of stainless steel and light metals such as aluminum, magnesium, and copper alloys.
I use to TIG steel all day long.
hey that's cool man keep askin. better to know your buying 100% what you actually want than to hope for the best.
since i havnt directly delt with those before, i cant say exactly how that warrenty is set up. does it matter if your buying it from some random dealer or do you have to buy it from OBX for that warrenty to be in effect? And yes, what exactly do they define by 'factory defects'. they might tell you if it arrived in one, undented peice, that's all they'll cover. sorry i cant be of more help than to just suggest more research of your own..
yeah pistons and rods are an improvement. they will give you a little more leway with boost. but, the next weakest point is your cylinders. if you can get them re sleeved with cast iron, they will hold boost much better. since your a daily driver, you want some degree of reliability. i think you should shoot for low 200. but possibly have a second ecu profile for high boost, maybe you can achieve a 240~250hp figure with, and only run that for drag event. depends on the size turbo you end up goin with. figure that out yet?
haha, posted while i was replying...
well, the only other thing that i guess your skimping on is the blow off valve and intercooler. lol. idk man, the turbo, exhaust mani, and wastegate is like the main ventricles of the turbo system's heart. good luck staying under 1k. idk.