Which Engine should I swap

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Drenni

Senior Member
Now here is the story, I want to swap a B16 into my OBD 0 civic 4dr the question is; which B16 should I swap and which would be a direct bolt on ;) . Will I be able to keep my A/C and power steering etc. And is it better to buy the B16 obd 0 and after it's bolted buy a conversion harness and change the car to OBD 1. I know it's a lot of bullshit but still what is the best thing considering the fact that I don't want to buy a conversion for my cable tranny to hydro, etc I want to go with the easy swap not a lot of hassle and not a lot of hidden shit or secrets.

Thanks Guys :worthy:

DC
San Juan, PR
 
I heard that running the VTEC ecu's on obd 0 is kind of fucked up that you don't get the same performance out of the car, instead of using a P28 chiped is that better and tranny should I get I know I'm asking a lot but if any one has a good combo out there please let me know....

thanks
 
a b16a1 into an ef will never be a "Direct Bolt In". First of all you will need Mounts, shift linkages, extra wires for VTEC and MPFI conversion (DX's only). You will need a 92 GSR upper radiator hose along with a 90-93 Lower radiator hose. 93 Integra axles if you have a DX or SI, if you have an HF you'll need DX or SI hubs. You will need a throttle cable adaptor bracket.

Places to get the engine & parts

The Engine
The Mounts

As far as the ecu you problem mentioned to save yourself the hassle of OBD conversion just use the ECU that comes with the engine I believe its a PW0 or something. Just use that, it plugs in to existing harness and all thats needed is VTEC wiring. Oh, and DPFI to MPFI conversion.

Hope this helped.
 
yep,

thanks a lot, I already have a ZC engine so the dpfi to mpfi not needed. So the only thing I need is the vtec cables etc...


thanks for the info, what else should I consider doing, let me know about the tranny should I go hydro or stay cable which tranny should I get or stay with the cable tranny keep it coming guys...what kind of track time am I looking at, it's a 4DR :( ....
 
Excellent info thanks bro... I hope I can get this swap going before the month is over.

thanks

DC

San Juan, PR
 
You will definately want to perform the general maintainence while the engine is out of the car. Such as Timing Belt, Intake manifold gasket (just in case, I dont know I would!), Water pump, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, get the flywheel resurfaced, install new clutch and pressure plate. just some of the stuff, cap and rotor, ignitor, coil. Hmmm
 
As far as track times, we cant exactly tell you on here, you'll have to go and find out. My friends Joel (ef9civicgen4) and Jason (shortbusrebel07) were told tehy would run in the 14's, so I guess you can go from there. For the transmission stick with cable. Less hassle, less money to spend for the cable to hydro conversion kit.

I like to stick with simple stuff. Just remember

K = keep
I = it
S = simple
S = stupid

Please dont take any offense to the word "Stupid" I was emplying (sp?) anything
 
dont be a panzy man, forget ur AC and PS. only pussys use those. if u go wit out PS then u will have so much quicker wheel response. and man AC?! comon role down ur window and stick ur head out.
Tyler
 
I didnt address the AC and PS situation. You will be able to keep both. Im not sure how to rework the PS system, but as far as AC goes, you can buy a bracket from hasport.com to fix this. As far as PS goes, you will have to keep on searching
 
Originally posted by SpodaB1@Mar 13 2004, 06:12 PM
As far as the ecu you problem mentioned to save yourself the hassle of OBD conversion just use the ECU that comes with the engine I believe its a PW0 or something. Just use that, it plugs in to existing harness and all thats needed is VTEC wiring. Oh, and DPFI to MPFI conversion.

Hope this helped.

Make sure you ask for the PR3 ECU, as you get an "extra" 600-700 RPM's before the rev limiter. As for the wiring, just get HASport. It might cost a little more, but it made my swap a drop-in and go kind of deal, real time saver.
 
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