WHICH ENGINE???

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Originally posted by Calesta@Mar 24 2004, 10:54 PM
Cheesefrog's isn't the only way to do it... he's easily in 11 second territory though. 11s are doable on a streetable setup, but 10s and especially 9s are extremely difficult. The only Hondas running 9s are pretty much track only vehicles, and they're not really safe to drive on the street. Safe being heavy enough to withstand a crash, pass a visual inspection, be a daily driver etc.

Low 10s all motor these days typically takes a car with about 260-280whp with super short gearing, that weighs only 1600 pounds with the driver. With a heavier car, you'll definitely need a ton of boost. I doubt that your EK hatch can make it down to 1600 pounds with you and an engine swap in it while remaining in a form that looks like it belongs on the street- maybe 2000 pounds if you're really lucky.

Import Builders is in California, not Florida. They can install, break in and tune your engine for you- but of course it's going to take some extra money to do so. They do mention it on their web site though, so you can definitely have it done. Start calling all the top shops, because most of them don't even have cars running in the 9s in full drag strip form. It's going to take a lot of money and a lot of custom work.

Good luck! High 10s to low/mid 11s might be a more realistic goal if you want to be able to drive this thing on the street.

i was just suggesting cars to look at and builds, there isnt just one way to build a motor so variety of builds i think will help.
 
M3 and call it a day.....fuck you'll pick up more bitches...... :p
 
I have done a lot of reading, and make no claims to expertise or even being right this is just my opinion.

I think if you want the 10's and 9's with your hatchback, it is doable, but you are going to need serious horsepower and hook ups with some darn good mechanics to bult up an engine right. The hatchback is real light, so that is a plus, the disadvantage is you don't have that much room under the hood to shove an engine into the bay. Normally, only a 4 cylinder engine can fit inside it. Sometimes that even requires a firewall or two to be pounded out.
Let us say you want to shoot for 600 horsepower. I figure with good wheels and on a track you can get 10 seconds with that.
Start at the foundation. You will need to make sure you can get good engine mounts, for something that powerful. So you might need somethng custom built if you want the brand new 2 plus liter K engines shoved under the hood.
Hasport is working on a K24 mount kit. Maybe they can work on something for you, if you show the bling.
Once you establish that you can shove the engine into the bay, you need to do lots of things to the engine. Work with a local mechanic. I am thinking if you can build the engine from the ground up to handle a full turbo, and Nitrous burst, you can get your 600 horsepower.

You need a good turbo kit plus nos system.
You need to build the motor to handle the full power of the turbo kit plus a NOS system.
You need to find places that sell all the engine upgrades you need.
Don't forget about the all important love affair you will have with the local mechanic.

Perhaps, it might be smart to do all the modifications to the engine at once, to save time and money due to labor issues.

Perhaps going to an older engine like the H22A might allow you to guarantee you can find all the modification parts.


I have heard of H22A's being built up to handle turbo + boost and hitting 400 hp.


If somebody swears to you that they can shove a 6 cyclinder into the hatchback, than pick up the C32A engine from the 97 + NSX / NSX-T , and go from there and it starts with a base rate in the 250+ horsepower range. That engine is awesome and easy to get a hold of under 3000 because of supply and demand issues. Nobody wants it, because they can't fit it under the hood.


Good luck
 
Thanks for all the info. Yesterday i went to a local shop called Ground Zero and hung out with them for the day. kick ass shop, they got a civic hatch that puts out 712 HP to the wheels. it has a 1.98L B18C1 on 28-32 pounds of boost. i think im Going to go with a 1.98L B18C5 w/ around 30 pounds of boost from a T4 turbo and turbo kit from FULLRACE. they can get help me put with all this. So thanks alot for all the help. iv learned alot about hondas and i have a bunch more respect for what they can do to. thanks -Mark
 
Well, I think the B18C5 is a great start. My second best guess would be a H22. It depends on cost. Anyway.. I saw this auction where the guy offers to prep an H22A engine to handle huge boost for like 5000 dollars, which seems rather reasonable. I think you send them the engine, but I am not sure.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2470398414

This is all the information in the auction from the seller known as pocketrockets_racing
I am not endorsing this guy, I am just pointing out the auction an the fact that he promises to build an engine that go 650 HP @27 psi of boost on 110 octane fuel. Reading this auction is a learning experience.


This is a Contract to build a Honda H22, H22a1, closed deck long block using YOUR block and crankshaft and cylinder head/cams. H22a4, available.

We also do the open deck blocks. The Darton MID (modular Integrated Deck) system is 40+ psi boost capable and 89 mm bore for turbo use, it is a wet sleeve for open deck blocks and it is an extra $649. these options can be purchased seprately in our other auctions.

If you don't currently have an engine, we have cores(crank,block and head) available.

All components we use are BRAND NEW!

I myself find that when I am looking to buy this type of stuff, its already built and its never quite the combination I want, either the brand of rod or piston or rings, the oil clearances or the quality of shop(machining, assembly), ..or "slightly used" a few hundred miles and that sort of mularchy!!!......so I am giving you maximum flexibility of choice at a fixed price!!, upgrades can be done!!!!.

This includes:

New billet rods,The quality connecting rod is your choice ie..Carrillo,Crower, Pauter...amongst others.

New Forged aluminum pistons: The quality piston brand and compression is your choice...ie..JE, CP, Arias ,Wiseco, amongst others.

New Darton flanged sleeves in a closed deck block.

New Honda Bearings and thrust washers.

NEW Prodrive billet oil pump

NEW ARP main and head studs, washers and nuts.

Crankshaft micropolished and checked for out-of-round and journal sizing .Oil clearances are 0.0016"-0.0018" on the main journals and are 0.0018"-0.0022" on the rod journals.


Head: Uses your stock cams, Type S, Crower, skunk2, or others available upon request.

16 New valve guides, honed to size,

8 New Ferrea exhaust super alloy valves 0.5 mm oversize.

8 New Ferrea intake super alloy valves 0.5 mm oversize.

New valve stem seals

New valve springs,spring locators and titanium retainers.....Ferrea, crower or skunk2....brand is your choice

complete 5 angle valve work, seating and lapping

port, blend and polish

New cometic head gasket

New adjustable cam gears

New Gaskets and seals throughout, New Hi performance timing belt, new water pump

New, engine completely assembled, balanced, blueprinted and delivered to your door.

this engine, turbocharged and correct air/fuel ratio will produce a minimum of 400 HP @ 15 psi of boost on 91 octane fuel and 650 HP @27 psi of boost on 110 octane fuel

Worldwide Delivery.

Perfect for Turbo, supercharger or Nitrous( 10:1 compression).. for Honda Prelude, Civic, Accord, Crx and custom cars. 11.5:1 compression for naturally aspiration combinations available.

Feel free to contact me to answer any questions that you might have, in order that you are 100% confident of your purchase. Thank you.

Frank

CHECK OUT MY OTHER AUCTIONS, we are offering a sleeved block by itself, as well as a sleeved shortblock.

We work with all H22's, H22a, H22a1, H22a4,H22a7.
 
I know there are many diffrent types of 98 Civc Hatchbacks like the DX and SE and what ever but which of these is the best Civic to work with to make a street drag car? whats the diffrence? I know what engine im going to start out with, im going with the B18C5 but maybe the C1 idk well see but i can get it bored out to a 1.98L and ill go from there. Ground Zero motorsports can help my alot with all this.

Thanks
 
If I had that much money I would be going
Nissan S14 with RB26DETT swap fully built up
or Nissan s13 with Silvia front end, RB26DETT
 
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