CRXratedR said:
O man, exactly. In the same situation eh?
Almost the same but even worse off. You can lean over to toggle the lock, but I can't even toggle it. I broke 2 door handles already. I can toggle it without breaking it only when I hold the handle at the same time. But then when I hold the door handle, the door will open. Can you imagine how inconvenience that'd be?
Say I just want to drop someone off, I have to turn off the engine just to let my passenger to get out. So I disabled that ignition autolock feature via programming.
BTW, my car is an s14 base model which I just brought recently.
and ran the other 2 wires to the lock and unlock wires on each of the actuators.
Have you tried to unplug the door lock harness on the alarm unit, then run a constant 12v (fused) and probing then connecting the 2 pins (one for lock the other for unlock), like bypassing the alarm unit? I believe the actuator itself is self-grounding, so either of the lock-wire or unlock-wire just need to have a contact with 12V, that should be enough to trigger the motor inside the actuator to lock or unlock the door.
I dont know which way the current was going but I tried it a couple of times. I was in fear, thinking that I would mess up the alarm if I do too much.
Exactly. And i know the current will go both ways, the actuator and the alarm unit, to complete circuit. I just don't understand when suspendedHatch said "just tap into it. That's how I install alarms onto Civic EXs and other cars everyday". When you splice another wire with 12v (doesn't matter from OEM switch or a new momentary switch) into an existing wire from the alarm unit straight to the actuator. Also what would happen if I toggle and hold the door switch and press the unlock/lock on my alarm remote button, seems like 2 separate circuits will join at the actuator and something bad could happen.
I checked my connections and wiring but everything looks okay. And the alarm still works but I am afraid to try it again. Someone help us, please?
When it comes to electrical stuffs, I am next-to-clueless. But I do have a digital multimeter, I know a little on how to check continuity/resistence/voltage and all that. I assume that's how you check your connections and wiring.
Anyhow, I haven't even started this whole process yet, just brought the OEM switch, read the owner manual or so, I am just trying to get some suggestions.
Middle terminal goes to power as you originally guessed
But my car can't do that if I use the factory harness because the middle terminal has continuity (with constant ground) and such pin on the harness is shared by power window as well.
You don't need 5 wire relays unless you're putting Ford locks in
When you say you don't, does it necessary mean you
can't? I thought using a relay is ALWAYS much cleaner and safer than getting constant 12v directly from fuse box.
Anyway, to put everything in short, what is the right way to do to have keyless entry and an addon power door lock switch (OEM switch or a new momentary switch)?