B16's Time Trial Road Racing Del Sol Overhaul Thread!!!

[B16]

what were your oil clearances on the mains? also how did you torque? did you use studs on the mains or bolts? did you line hone the manins? how was the crank? did you measure the main and rod journals?

sorry for the 21 ? but all very important

I don't recall the exact numbers on the mains, they were within spec. I torqued with my torque wrench according to my Helms. I re-used the OE bolts. I did not hone the mains. I believe the crank was ok. I did not measure the main or rod journals.

I did notice when I pulled the pistons the bearings were starting to shine. My friend was saying they should have still looked like new. They are suggesting I ditch the ACL bearings and match OE colors to what the block says for the mains and use Reds for the rods.

I did a compression check today just to rule out the timing tensioner that loosend and I still have 250psi across the board so that is ok. Maybe this weekend I'll get around to dropping the pan and pulling the bearings to inspect them. I'm thinking i'll be able to still get the upper main bearings out with the crank still in.

Please ask questions, offer suggestions.. I'm about fed up with this thing. I just want to drive.

Another stumbling block is the power it was making. Only 160whp. The B16 with CTR cams and same bolt ons made 175whp (same head too just CTR cams instead of these blox HSL).

 

[hondafreak513]

Sorry to here about the build.. You can get the bearings out with the crank still in, not the funnest thing to do but is doable. They will spin right around the crank as long as they are oiled up good. I have done it once before..

 

[B16]

Sorry to here about the build.. You can get the bearings out with the crank still in, not the funnest thing to do but is doable. They will spin right around the crank as long as they are oiled up good. I have done it once before..

Ya, that was the strategy suggested by my friend. I might have time to get into it tonight. I'll upload pics of the bearings.

 

[Magana559]

I would take the crank out and measure on the center and ends of the journals to make sure they are not out of round, also plasti guage everything on both sides of the crank to find the correct clearance. Torque in steps and let sit a bit between steps. Dont forget assembly lube!

I run ACL bearings with no issues, LS motor reving to 8k made 170whp and was broken in on the dyno.

Also use 30 mono non detergent on the brake in.

one more question......what crank pulley are you using? Dose it have a harmonic balancer?

 

[Magana559]

shit also forgot, if your valve lash it too tight you will lose power. set on a cold engine and within the CAMS spec. dont use OE spec.

 

[B16]

I would take the crank out and measure on the center and ends of the journals to make sure they are not out of round, also plasti guage everything on both sides of the crank to find the correct clearance. Torque in steps and let sit a bit between steps. Dont forget assembly lube!

I run ACL bearings with no issues, LS motor reving to 8k made 170whp and was broken in on the dyno.

Also use 30 mono non detergent on the brake in.

one more question......what crank pulley are you using? Dose it have a harmonic balancer?

If I have to pull the crank, the B16 is going back in and this motor will be put on the shelf for the rest of the season. I really don't see why the crank would be out of round or bad clearances. It was an OE R motor where I had an oil squirter bolt back out and tear a hole in the block. I would think the crank should be fine. It wasn't touched, so still OE crank with OE mains.

I was planning on trying new bearings and see what happens. Is that a bad idea? And yes of course I use assembly lube.

What is 30 mono no detergent? I used Mobil 1 10w30.

OE crank pulley that came on the motor.

shit also forgot, if your valve lash it too tight you will lose power. set on a cold engine and within the CAMS spec. dont use OE spec.

Valve lash was set on cold motor according to cam spec

 

[vtecsir1]

nooooooooo im sorry to hear this.

stupid question, thrust washers were in right for the crank?

I used oem for my mains and acl for my rods because I had all green for my rod ends which is about the same tolerance as STD acl.

I didnt want to risk it with the acl mains since the crank wasnt machined.

that sucks man.

 

[B16]

Thrust washers were in correctly.

 

[GSRCRXsi]

the oil squirters are close to the mains, no? possible welding heat from the repair warped it just slightly?

its a longshot. just a thought.

 

[Briansol]

hows the oil pressure? switching lobes?

 

[B16]

hows the oil pressure? switching lobes?

Oil pressure is good, I think its around 75psi when in vtec? I can hear it change lobes, i'm assuming all lobes are switching over.. How do I tell for sure?

 

[B16]

the oil squirters are close to the mains, no? possible welding heat from the repair warped it just slightly?

its a longshot. just a thought.

I suppose that is a possibility..

 

[vtecsir1]

Any updates? I dont think the oil squirters would cause that but I guess you wont know until you strip it all down.

 

[B16]

No updates yet. Wife put a 7 day ban on working on the car.. lmao.. And now I have to go to India next Friday. Probably wont get a chance to drop the pan until 2nd week of Feb.

 

[vtecsir1]

ouch! 7 day ban lol been there.

 

[ls94civic]

nice looking car man!!!!

 

[B16]

Bump.. get some fucking work done on this thing so it runs!

/self motivation

 

[E_SolSi]

 

[Ethan]

MEGAtronWERD

 

[B16]

Well I got into it yesterday.

Replaced all bearings and check clearances. Everything is within spec. Journals still looked good. I'll take pics of the bearings tonight and post them.

I noticed the upper Main #1 bearing had a chunk missing near the oiling hole. Not sure how that happened. Also the crank cam pulley sprocket, the key to it broke off. Not sure wtf happened.

What is weird is when manually rotating, if I add some shock/jerk to the rotation it makes a 'thunk' noise. I'm not sure if that is normal? Sounds like it might be coming from either cylinder #4 or the tranny. Hard to tell.exactly. #4 piston looks ok from the bottom, compression is good in that cylinder as well.

Tonight I hope to button it back up and try starting it up.