Colin's EK Hatch

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Thats how my Si sounds! IDK the exhaust brand though as it was on there when I got it. Its a 2.5' setup from the collector back including a cat, resonator, and a not too big quieter straight through muffler. I get mostly (awesome) intake sound from my whale dick so I DO recommend one. And the Hytech replica header didnt make it louder as I thought it would.
 
Oh yea, I remembered I had a shitty cell phone video of my car from back in Chicago. The camera's sound was cutting out not the car.


You can see how quiet it was under normal driving yet had a somewhat ballsy sound under throttle.
 
Sounds good I almost pulled the trigger on a whale penis last night. Pricetag scared me off. The ported ITR intake manifold and throttle body got back from maxbore. Pics to follow.
 
No exhaust. I guess I fell in love with the sound/look of the twin loop. Shipping to OH would be a bear too. I'm still interested in the clutch/fw. It's between using your stuff or getting my ITR fw resurfaced and a stock gsr clutch with 40k on it. I'll get back to you in a few days. Work has been busy = no time to handle my hobbies.

Sweet. Lemme know. You've got my number. ;)
 
Got some more goodies!!!!!!! Also shipped my fake S2S2 cams back to the seller. Ebay agreed to refund my money:)

Block came back from a coworker who bored/honed it to 81.5mm
2011-04-12213250.jpg


Also had PCT (ctr) pistons pressed onto my stock rods
2011-04-12213309.jpg


Ported ITR throttle body arrived back from Maxbore.
2011-04-12213548.jpg


Went ahead and had the ITR intake manifold port matched...
2011-04-12213614.jpg
 
ohh sexy.

sorry about the cams man. I would much rather buy new on ebay or buy from trusted HS members.
I'm still planning to use the S2P2's on my setup so if you get done before me and use something similar please let us know how they feel.
 
Thanks man. I've been looking at Blox P1 cams. They are a copy of S2P1's and sell for over $200 less new. I've been hearing that the S2P2's are too big for a 1.8 unless the compression is really high. Compared to an S2P1, the vtec lobe actually has slightly less lift but much more duration. Basically a small displacement motor will need to rev much higher to see benefit from S2P2's.
 
ahh i just did further research and saw the motors they tested these cams on..

14.1 compression plus making crazy power. I'm rethinking my decision here. :lol:
 
ahh i just did further research and saw the motors they tested these cams on..

14.1 compression plus making crazy power. I'm rethinking my decision here. :lol:

I've been doing tons of research and I've been reading from reputable sources that compression under 12:1 is best for longevity. Also, I've been looking at skunk2 stage 2 cams (this is what I had bought & got screwed on). They have the same vtec profile as the S2P1, but have stock ITR primary lobes. This means that tuning is easier, you get a stock idle, good fuel economy, and more normal valvetrain wear. Peak power is the same, they just make much less in the mid range vs S2P1's.
 
Ive had S2S2's before and loved them. wish i never got rid of them :(

so your saying that the pro1's actually perform better in our engines over the P2's?
 
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Ive had S2S2's before and loved them. wish i never got rid of them :(

so your saying that the pro1's actually perform better in our engines?

Really I'd say it's a wash. Peak power will be similar, while the P1's will have a fatter mid range. I've "heard" that the pro1's work better in a sub 12:1 1.8 liter block while the pro2's are better for higher than 12:1 and/or 2.0 liter setups. Really though, it comes down to tuning and degreeing the cams correctly. Every motor will be different.
 
Today I ordered OEM main/rod bearings, a P73 ac bracket (mine was missing???), new torque mounts (oem), thicker .056" head gasket to bring the CR to 11.75:1, and a sweet new $200 whale dick intake that I just HAD to have.
 
Coming together nicely!

I ran pro 1s on my built gsr with less compression 11.2 ish.

More compression and I would have easily been well over 200whp. Plan to rev the motor up to 9k if you choose these cams.

The pro1s will need about 2 hrs of good tuning which is well worth it. My idle was perfect too but that comes down to software and the tuner (ectune), crome the idle sucked so with hondata you should be good.

I wish I had of chimed in earlier, I think the whale style intake is a waste imo. I went with a 3 inch ss u bend and a blox velocity stack for a total of $70. Im a big beleiver in the velocity stack ever since my first aem intake in 95 had it, comptech used it as well in their filter. The whale intake doesnt have that correct?

310s should be good but in your case an adjustable regulator could come in handy so you dont max the duty cycle out on those injectors.

It looks like you have aftermarket valvesprings or did i miss where you confirmed that.

I would recommend the newer style lma's (spring style, not prelude shimmed) for these larger cams. The lobes on the cams fyi are wider than the tuner series so its actually hitting more of the rocker and not chewing a groove down the middle in my expereince.

That T fitting on the block if you havent already I would ditch. The vibrations can cause cracks being in the block like that.

Very nice valve tool, lisle makes a pretty handy tool for 30 bucks Amazon.com: Lisle 36200 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer: Automotive but its too late now and you have a really nice tool.

Good luck, Im glad you're going all motor even though forced injection is tons of fun. I have my gsr build in my sig I did in 2009 if you need to see any of the items.
 
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having the bottom end balanced might not be a bad idea if youre planning on revving this thing out to 9k RPM's, just for longevity's sake.
 
Coming together nicely!

I ran pro 1s on my built gsr with less compression 11.2 ish.

More compression and I would have easily been well over 200whp. Plan to rev the motor up to 9k if you choose these cams.

The pro1s will need about 2 hrs of good tuning which is well worth it. My idle was perfect too but that comes down to software and the tuner (ectune), crome the idle sucked so with hondata you should be good.

I wish I had of chimed in earlier, I think the whale style intake is a waste imo. I went with a 3 inch ss u bend and a blox velocity stack for a total of $70. Im a big beleiver in the velocity stack ever since my first aem intake in 95 had it, comptech used it as well in their filter. The whale intake doesnt have that correct?

310s should be good but in your case an adjustable regulator could come in handy so you dont max the duty cycle out on those injectors.

It looks like you have aftermarket valvesprings or did i miss where you confirmed that.

I would recommend the newer style lma's (spring style, not prelude shimmed) for these larger cams. The lobes on the cams fyi are wider than the tuner series so its actually hitting more of the rocker and not chewing a groove down the middle in my expereince.

That T fitting on the block if you havent already I would ditch. The vibrations can cause cracks being in the block like that.

Very nice valve tool, lisle makes a pretty handy tool for 30 bucks Amazon.com: Lisle 36200 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer: Automotive but its too late now and you have a really nice tool.

Good luck, Im glad you're going all motor even though forced injection is tons of fun. I have my gsr build in my sig I did in 2009 if you need to see any of the items.

-I have skunk2 pro springs and skunk2 retainers. I was planning on 9k.
-I'm going to run stock fuel pressure first - I have a wideband to monitor things. I'm surprised to hear the 310's will be maxed out.
-My lma's have an internal spring in them. They all feel great.
-I plan on removing the shitty fitting on the block. There is some sort of adhesive on the threads making it a bitch to remove.

having the bottom end balanced might not be a bad idea if youre planning on revving this thing out to 9k RPM's, just for longevity's sake.

You are probably right. However I won't be doing it:p The only thing that will be changing is the pistons. The manufacturer guarantees them to be really close. The itr crank and rods should be fine.
 
damn man its looking good can anyone tell me how to post a new thread cause I have some questions for all you guys
 
-I have skunk2 pro springs and skunk2 retainers. I was planning on 9k.
-I'm going to run stock fuel pressure first - I have a wideband to monitor things. I'm surprised to hear the 310's will be maxed out.
-My lma's have an internal spring in them. They all feel great.
-I plan on removing the shitty fitting on the block. There is some sort of adhesive on the threads making it a bitch to remove.

I only mentioned the LMA change because those cams can are tough on them.

My 310s with a gsr regulator were at 89%-92% so not maxed but very close and higher than I wanted.

PB blaster might help with the threads but doubtful.You could try hitting that fitting without the sensor on it with a torch for a few seconds to heat up the adhesive.

I cant wait to see what type of power you end up putting down.
 
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