Colin's EK Hatch
- Thread starter 99sidude
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GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
You could haul a lotta shit in there if that bottom bar wasn't there.
tiresmokinV8
Lurker
That rear deck looks sweet.
thanks couldnt of done it without you
tiresmokinV8
Lurker
You know it! Better still be clean when I come down again. We'll have to detail the car this time.
Update: I swapped in my Hondata S300 p28 from my old build. I'm runnning stock injectors with a stock type r calibration. I bought a jumper harness from Rywire.com and the thing was literally plug and play. Gotta love that.
This Friday I'm going to run the car at a local test n tune. It's at Dragway 42 in Lodi, Ohio if any of you Ohio people are interested. I'm hoping to break 14.5 in a full weight type r ek hatch.
This Friday I'm going to run the car at a local test n tune. It's at Dragway 42 in Lodi, Ohio if any of you Ohio people are interested. I'm hoping to break 14.5 in a full weight type r ek hatch.
haven't been to 42 in a while. Nice small time track run by great people. You can get a lot of runs in out there. At least back when I used to go. I remember when I was younger and my brother ran jr dragsters I got to race our 1981 honda 70cc three wheeler tow vehicle down the strip. Good times... Good luck!
Well i came back a little dissapointed. I was consistently running a 14.7 at 96/97 mph with a 2.3 60'. It seems like most people with this setup are in the low 14's. Im going to blame the 90 degree heat, bald tires, and the fact that I drove 2 hour on my way to the track and jumped right in it. The stock gsr header isn't helping, and the previous owner has the intake cam clocked 2 degrees off. One thing that was strange is that in the right lane I was trapping at 97 consistently and in the left lane I was always 3mph slower at 94. Weird....
that's what you get for having awesome weather all year round.
tiresmokinV8
Lurker
Come on Colin it was definately not 90* at the track especially since we ran until like 10 at night and ur car sat a while in-between runs. But still I was expecting faster et's out of it also. Oh and Alex only ran a 14.5@94 in his sc'd s10 a lot slower then his previous 13.9@96. Maybe its the track?? I ran about the same as last year tho so maybe its not the track
hmmm for that time when u was trying to get the axle nut, i know this is an old post, just lookin around but this might come to use some time xD... if u have a fat brother, or know a fat person, goto autozone and rent a 3/4" drive breaker bar, then get a fence pole.http://www.alloy-artifacts.com/Photos/tools/truth_34dr_breaker_t_slider_cadmium_f_cropped_inset.jpg
Thats what i did xD worked like a charm. But yeah, i had a axle nut that broke 2 of my 1/2" breaker bars and my 32mm socket.. =[ *tear... so i had to show the nut who's boss =D
Thats what i did xD worked like a charm. But yeah, i had a axle nut that broke 2 of my 1/2" breaker bars and my 32mm socket.. =[ *tear... so i had to show the nut who's boss =D
You know, I own a 3/4" drive breaker bar, just not the 32mm socket. I went to every automotive / hardware store in the area and no one had a 32mm in 3/4 drive. Not only that, I couldn't find a 3/4 - 1/2 reducer so I could try the one I have.
Update:
I sold off all of my SC stuff from my old build. In the deal I picked up an entire GSR brake swap. Everything has 150k miles. It's in decent shape with the exception of the rear trailing arm bushings. I have the front sway bar too, and ordered si mounting brackets and end links.
A couple dillema's
-Replace the wheel bearings? They feel fine, but they do have 150k on them. OEM ones arn't cheap, even for me.
-Bushings? The stock rubber ones are in good condition. I'm debating whether or not it's really much benefit to switch to poly?
-Trailing arm bushings. Yup, they're torn. The damn tool to change them costs an arm and a leg. Anyone found a cheap way of replacing them?
-Springs. Right now I'm running Eibach Pro-kit springs on Eibach struts. I love the ride, but the fender gap is huge and it looks like crap. Anyone have a spring they swear by that offers a 2" drop?
I sold off all of my SC stuff from my old build. In the deal I picked up an entire GSR brake swap. Everything has 150k miles. It's in decent shape with the exception of the rear trailing arm bushings. I have the front sway bar too, and ordered si mounting brackets and end links.
A couple dillema's
-Replace the wheel bearings? They feel fine, but they do have 150k on them. OEM ones arn't cheap, even for me.
-Bushings? The stock rubber ones are in good condition. I'm debating whether or not it's really much benefit to switch to poly?
-Trailing arm bushings. Yup, they're torn. The damn tool to change them costs an arm and a leg. Anyone found a cheap way of replacing them?
-Springs. Right now I'm running Eibach Pro-kit springs on Eibach struts. I love the ride, but the fender gap is huge and it looks like crap. Anyone have a spring they swear by that offers a 2" drop?
Just ordered some brake stuff off TireRack.com.
-FR and RR Brembo blanks rotors
-Hawk HPS Pads
-Russells ss brake lines
All this is going on the gsr FR and RR suspension swap I just bought
I'm really excited about this. To me, the braking and handling of a car are just as important, if not more important than the power it puts down. I'm glad I'm doing it right this time.
Finally, I'm going to be running an OEM gsr FR sway bar. I'm not really sure what to do about the RR. The stock gsr and civic si RR bars look weak as hell. I'm thinking I'll have to go aftermarket.
-FR and RR Brembo blanks rotors
-Hawk HPS Pads
-Russells ss brake lines
All this is going on the gsr FR and RR suspension swap I just bought
I'm really excited about this. To me, the braking and handling of a car are just as important, if not more important than the power it puts down. I'm glad I'm doing it right this time.
Finally, I'm going to be running an OEM gsr FR sway bar. I'm not really sure what to do about the RR. The stock gsr and civic si RR bars look weak as hell. I'm thinking I'll have to go aftermarket.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
My DA teggy trailing arms were torn. You can hammer out the old ones, cut them out then use the circle left over to hammer in the new ones.
Just get OEM bushings all around, from reviews I've read the stiff poly ones seize and squeak like hell.
Just get OEM bushings all around, from reviews I've read the stiff poly ones seize and squeak like hell.
78civic
Junior Member
I'f you've got a week or so to wait, I've used windshield cauking to fill in the gaps/tears on several motor mounts and just did another Prelude si that's up for sale.
It gets really messy, so use some disposable gloves. Takes about 4-5 days before I'd install and run.
I've driven the lude for a few weeks now and no tearing or damage.
Doesn't MOOG or KANTER stock any bushings for the suspension?
You used the whole DA rear trailing arm and hub assembly right??
I'm asking because I'd like to do that to my 90 civ 4dr.
Thanks. E
It gets really messy, so use some disposable gloves. Takes about 4-5 days before I'd install and run.
I've driven the lude for a few weeks now and no tearing or damage.
Doesn't MOOG or KANTER stock any bushings for the suspension?
You used the whole DA rear trailing arm and hub assembly right??
I'm asking because I'd like to do that to my 90 civ 4dr.
Thanks. E
I'm using dc2 rear arms and hubs
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