D16y8 n/a build

[Luis998]

It needs to be reassembled, and he said he didn't know how many miles are on it...Which is why he is selling it so cheap. However I have the rare oppurtunity to look at the gears and such as it is disassembled.

That would be a good experience to have for $80 bucks in my opinion. You can use it, if for nothing else, as a learning tool as well. Though I am thinking you will get a lot out of it and even be able to replace any parts that need to be replaced very easily and cost effectively. Now then, putting it back together is another thing. haha

 

[philyphreak2127]

Exactly well pretty soon I will be posting pictures of my car taken apart......again. We pushed it into my garage today drained all the fluids, pulled my manifolds, p/s pump and resovoir, coolant resovoir, strut bar, my passenger side fan. (plan on running a pusher fan). The guy I am buying the b18 from came over and helped a little. He saw my radiator and told me name my price because I have a half rad of course, and he has a 1993 integra that he is building a turbo setup for. so....just curious but could I just take out all my a/c crap, and run a full size teggy radiator? The best part is if I can do that he will throw in his full size radiator from the car the motor is coming out of and take money off of how much he is asking for the motor. So if it can be done it is worth it.

 

[philyphreak2127]

Well yet again plan change. I found a d15b7 with low miles on it. So my plan again is a mini-me setup. However this is most likely the last plan change. I get paid thursday, and I can pick up the motor that day. Which is the plan as of now. If I were to run a y8/b7 mini me setup could I run the p2p ecu with this or will I have to run the b7 ecu and have it tuned?

 

[Luis998]

Hey Sam, what year Y8 head are you using? I was going to do a thread on this but figured I may ask you first as the guy that sold me my 2000 Y8 head told me that it should only be used on a 2000 Y8 block, as it will leak on other blocks. Have you ever heard of anything like that? He said it is because of the way the head is made.

I say either use the P2P or switch to OBD1 and a P28 and tune it, of course.

 

[philyphreak2127]

Mine is a 98. I have never heard anything about that. I think you are supposed to use the oem hondata y8 head gasket. But I would ask Blanco.

 

[philyphreak2127]

If anyone even still reads this thread I had kind of a goofy question but how hard would it be to install gsr struts and springs on my 98 civic. I am pretty sure my front springs are bad, and the previous owner installed 2 adjustable struts and left 2 stock struts on, with the no-name coilovers, and the stock springs. wow. I want to at least get the car where it handles decent so matching the struts and getting good springs on the car are two goals of mine, and there is a set of gsr struts and springs for sale by me $100 or best offer. Could solve two problems.

 

[philyphreak2127]

Bought a d15b7 motor tonight. 85,634 documented miles. Came with all accessories, wiring harness, even the serpentine belt. It is completely ready to drop in. Too Bad I won't settle for that. I am gonna swap the y8 head on there, replace all the top end gaskets, and timing belt. Repaint my valve cover, and replace my front brakes, and a cv axle before I drive it.

 

[philyphreak2127]

Looks like its gonna be about two weeks before I start to "refresh" my y8 top end gasket wise. I have to buy a z6 timing belt. I want to also replace the oil pan gasket on the b7 just because it will be easier while the motor is out of the car. I can't wait to have it running. I am excited to have decent power for a change.

 

[philyphreak2127]

Got the motor started prepping the car and motor for the head swap. Got a solid 6 hours of work on the car tonight. Pulled the p/s/ pump, entire a/c system in the car, pulled the alternater, pulled the cam gear and timing belt off. (Need to buy hex key set for arp head studs to pull the head)

On the d15b7 I pulled alternater swapped it for the y7 alternator from the car, pulled the head, pulled the exhaust manifold, pulled the throttle body.

That may not seem like a lot but we did have some issues. It was me and a buddy of mine who doesn't know much about cars but was more than willing to learn with hands on experience. Basically right now I have to wait til I get paid again to buy the gasket set, chilton's manual and timing belt hopefully. After that I will assemble the motor to spec with all new gaskets, retime the motor put in the new spark plugs, and plug wires I bought. It will probably be around 2 weeks just due to my lame checks now. But I plan on buying the chilton's manual, timing belt, arp headstuds, gasket kit, and oil pan gasket. It will probably all cost around $250-$300.

 

[philyphreak2127]

I ordered a set of arp headstuds for the block, and I already have a full set of y8 bolts. I need 1 y8 headstud, and 9 b7 headstuds for this mini-me. I can pick them up monday. However big progress today. The motor is out of the car with tranny. I have to take the tranny off, and pull the head off the y8. I plan to connect the tranny and the block and dropping that back in the car hook everything up and make sure it's all solid. Which will give me time to port the head, and start mocking up the custom exhaust a buddy is going to weld for me. I also bought the head gasket, intake manifold gasket, timing belt, exhaust manifold gasket, valve cover gasket and throttle body gasket. I already have new spark plugs, spark plug wires, oil, and oil filter in my garage waiting. Basically the "left to buy" list consists of misc. fluids. Just so everything is topped off perfectly.

Me and my friend Lee plan on working on the motor for a while tomorrow. I am going to try and getting it back together enough to roll it onto the driveway and wash out engine bay and the overall car.

 

[philyphreak2127]

block and tranny back in car. Cv axles back in, wiring harness all wired to block. Waiting for head studs tomorow. I have about two or three hours of solid work left to have this car ready to drive. I cleaned the block a little bit, also bolted up the shift linkage, put the suspension all back together, put the wheels on. It's now sitting back on the ground. Looking good so far. Tomorrow I plan on trying to also wash and vacuum the car if I can get time. I still have to work all this week.

 

[jimmyvong]

Your gonna want more displacement for an all motor build that will actully be worth the money. You will spend tons of money on your D build that won't mean much without displacement. All motor builds should start with the biggest displacement your budget can handle. Just my thought.

 

[phunky.buddha]

It's nice, but not always necessary or even appropriate depending on what you're trying to achieve with the engine. Too long of a stroke could lead to peaky power delivery...

 

[philyphreak2127]

You are for the most part correct. An N/A motor should in most cases be a bigger displacement motor however in this case I am both a huge fan of the d-series motors and have been following some builds much like my own for a while now and many people said this build gives a nice power boost over the stock y7. Not to mention I am into the whole sleeper aspect of cars and in this case no one will have any clue that I have vtec unless they look for the solenoid. But eventually down the line when I can actually collect parts for it I would like to supercharge this motor because it should be running a relatively high compression ratio, and I want something different than the rest of the crowd.

Also I have another car and need to get this one running so I can finish what needs to be done on the Trans Am.

 

[philyphreak2127]

All I have left to do is clean up the bottom "mating" surface of the head and the top "mating" surface of the block to ensure a good seal, throw the new head gasket on and bolt the head on. The intake manifold is bolted to the head as is the throttle body to the manifold both with new gaskets in place. After cleaning the head and block the next step will be to change the timing belt, followed by plugging in the p2p ecu and running vtec wires to the neccessary spot, followed by the final part bolting on the head then the exhaust manifold and plugging everything where it belongs. I am itching to get off work tomorrow already!! I am pretty sure I will have a couple buddies over to help so everything should move rather quickly, hell maybe I will even have a video of the start up to post up. Who knows? Thanks for anyone who still reads this.

 

[serrilion]

I'm still readding it! I hope ya get a vid of the start up, once ya get a tune maybe a dyno vid

 

[philyphreak2127]

Probably won't hit the dyno or a tune bro. I am planning on running it from the stock p2p for a while. Unfortunely that is the bad part about having two cars money for each is few and far between. If I just had the civic I can almost garuntee I would have a built gsr motor in my civic or a 383 or 400 small block in the T/A if that was my only car.

 

[philyphreak2127]

Alright well I got everything assembled and checked and rechecked all plugs on wiring harness. However I have a no start condition going on. My battery is dead, so I threw it on a trickle charger. Got it to hold a charge and while on the "start" setting of the charger I could only get the car to crank but not turn over. It sounds very weak when cranking. I checked the firing order first just to make sure and it's correct as far as I know. 1,3,4,2 correct me if I am wrong anyone!! I still need to check for fuel, and compression and spark on Tuesday. I can't work on the car tomorrow. I did replace the plugs and wires before swapping the motor in so they should still be good, so I am leaning towards compression or fuel.

 

[philyphreak2127]

I need help! i retimed the motor, cleaned the injectors, checked and rechecked the firing order, and my car continues to be a pain to get started, then when idling it sounds like it is misfiring. I can't figure out why. Any ideas?

 

[philyphreak2127]

figured out the issue it runs good now. I am now looking for a manual p2p ecu since the one I bought before is from an automatic transmission. I have gone through and checked all the fluids, rechecked all coolant lines, rechecked the firing order, cleaned the car outside, and under the hood, and the block.So upon finding a p2p ecu for a manual I will be able to drive my civic again for a change.