Getting a Bike.

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Just be patient. Pick a bike, notify the respective dealer that you want it, and to call you when they get one in.


And what the hell have you been riding for the past 7 years that you feel that you need to "step up" to a 250? We talking about a vespa or something?

That's a great way to make sure you pay what the dealership wants you to pay =)

Keep searching til you find one, go in with cash or a check from your bank and tell the'll you'll buy it today for x many dollars. If they want to sell it great, if not lets not waste each others time. Around here the 250s/500s are everywhere, the new market isn't anything special since the used market is loaded with them due to new riders flipping bikes.
 
A buddy of mine has the same bike you just picked up and hasnt had any issues with it that I know of. The fit and finish on his isnt all that great though. Yours may be in better shape however.
 
My friend had a Ching Chong pit bike and broke the forks off of it. Ill stick with my good old Jap bikes, and you say youve rode in the dirt, why not pick up a supermoto bike?
 
just be sure to factor the price of some riding gear into the bike fund
 
Around here the 250s/500s are everywhere, the new market isn't anything special since the used market is loaded with them due to new riders flipping bikes.

Exactly. The dealerships local to me don't even want to sell 250/500 bikes anymore, because there isn't really a market for new ones.
 
I agree with phyregod here. If you really are experienced with riding then I would say skip the whole 250, as it will get old very quickly. The only reason for buying a 250 is to get a feel for the mechanics of the bike. Finding where everything is, feeling out the clutch, the brakes, and how everything works. Once you've figured that out the lack of power of a 250 will get very boring. Go for a 600cc, either Honda, Kawasaki, or Suzuki. I'm sure you're familiar with their 600cc models.
 
I started with a 250. bought it brand new for $3000 in 2006, sold it summer of 2007 for $2850. best resale of ANYTHING with wheels and an engine. I rode it for a year. got bored with it the first 2 months. I waited until the next spring and stepped up to an R6.
 
just be sure to factor the price of some riding gear into the bike fund

Yes. Riding gear could be the difference between going gun-shy after your first week or having a long & fun riding experience.
 
Yes. Riding gear could be the difference between going gun-shy after your first week or having a long & fun riding experience.

Agreed. Get some riding gear that is protective, comfortable, and visible.

My gear rocks, I can sit around the house all day in it, and it doesn't bug me. Some people say that you need leather, some say synthetics, but in all honesty, just get something that's protective. Find gear with armor in it.
 
i have a dealer local to me and i checked out the hyosung bikes
I'd honestly go with a better name. I've had too much bad luck with cheaply made chinese power sports equipment.
 
i have a dealer local to me and i checked out the hyosung bikes
I'd honestly go with a better name. I've had too much bad luck with cheaply made chinese power sports equipment.

Or chinese made anything for that matter.

It's Korean made not Chinese.
and yes i am thinking twice about the gt250r. i feel more responsible and trust myself enough for something bigger.
 
Look into joe rocket synthetics for gear.. Or leathers if you can foot the bill..

I shopped around ALOT, hit ebay, etc.. And bagged a full set of joe rocket gear one piece at a time for about $1000. Jacket, Pants, Leather Boots, Leather Gloves, and an HJC helmet.

"Don't dress for the ride, dress for the slide"
 
9 out of 10 people would rather sweat a little than run a belt sander down their arm
 
holy shit! that's expensive. hell, right now I need a new helmet. my visor is pretty scratched up.
 
I only spent about $600 on my gear. It's synthetic and not leather though. It gets hot if you're sitting in traffic, but it's waterproof, and it's got little vents that whistle when you get over about 90mph. :D

However, my helmet is an incredibly cheap brand that escapes me at the moment. Someone did a bunch of tests a couple years back and found that the cheap helmets protect you in a collision the same as an expensive helmet. Keep in mind that it's sure nice to be able to buy a replacement visor, or a replacement liner, or strap; you won't be able to purchase replacement parts with the cheap helmet.
 
^^^^I would like to see the results of that test. i find it hard to believe.

One thing about cheaper helmets is that they are wayyyy heavier. i went from a Scorpion to an Arai and I could definitely feel the difference. Plus, the better helmets cut down on the whistle from air. My cheap helmet was loud as hell. Good helmets also vent better and have warranties.

how much is YOUR melon worth? mine was worth $700. Unfortunately i found a site that sells Arai helmets for $440. Now i just need an excuse to buy one.
 
Motorcycle Helmet Design, Helmet Standards and Head Protection - Gear Box - Motorcyclist Online

The cheap helmets were completely destroyed, but they absorbed more energy.

The stiffest helmets in the Big Drop test, the Arai Tracker GTs, hit our hypothetical head with an average of 243 peak Gs. The softest helmets, the Z1R ZRP-1s, bonked the noggin with an average of 176 peak Gs. This is a classic comparison of a stiff, fiberglass, Snell-rated helmet, the Arai, against a softer, polycarbonate-shell, DOT-only helmet, the Z1R. OK. So let's agree that we want to subject our heads to the minimum possible G force. Should we pick an impressive, expensive fiberglass/Kevlar/unobtanium-fiber helmet—or one of those less-expensive plastic-shelled helmets?

Conventional helmet-biz wisdom says fiberglass construction is somehow better at absorbing energy than plastic—something about the energy of the crash being used up in delaminating the shell. And that a stiffer shell lets a designer use softer foam inside—which might absorb energy better.

Our results showed the exact opposite—that plastic-shelled helmets actually performed better than fiberglass. In our big 3-meter hit—the high-energy kind of bash one might expect would show the supposed weaknesses of a plastic shell—the plastic helmets transferred an average of 20 fewer Gs compared with their fiberglass brothers, which were presumably designed by the same engineers to meet the same standards, and built in the same factories by the same people.

Why is this? We're guessing—but it's a really good guess: The EPS liner inside the shell is better at absorbing energy than the shell. The polycarbonate shells flex rather than crush and delaminate, and this flexing, far from being a problem, actually lets the EPS do more of its job of energy absorption while transferring less energy to the head.
 
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