Since you have so much knowledge to tap
How do I check the CEL code? Is it like the Grand Nationals where you cross 2 pins on the scanner port and the CEL flashes the code?
The issues were with the stock computer. Some ECU's havent been discovered yet, which is really no issue I found out. You can use a few different ECU's and still use the map for your car and make it run. After finding that out I bought the P06 and had it rushed to me. On Xenocron they make it kinda easy, he shows what ecu's you can buy chipped. Those are the ones that can be tuned with the program of your choice.
Yes I'm running the 3 bar map sensor now. The install was pretty easy and straight forward.
I found most of my info from the basic info posts they have out in the open on pgmfi.org and the rest was from going through post after post in the Accord section to get my thoughts straight on what needed to happen. If you have a specific question I may be able to help, I've read quite a bit about it now. I'm def no expert and will NEVER claim to be one. BUT I did figure out my setup and got a pretty good tune on it without even going to the dyno. A lil datalogging and a few passes, DONE
Tuning:
I'm no pro tuner man, but I can tell you what works for me and maybe you'll have luck with my ideas. I found that a lot of the timing maps were the same for different sized engines and cars, not all but a good majority.
I used a F23 ROM then loaded boost tools to configure the 3 bar sensor. After that I checked to make sure Vtec was disabled and the O2 heater since I installed a Wideband too. Then I started it up and made sure it idled. After a couple blips of the throttle, I started driving around staying out of boost! I checked to see that everywhere out of boost was getting the right amount of fuel and there was no pinging/knocking. Also if the car hesitates when you try to apply throttle, most likely the timing is off. Tuning timing is kinda tricky to explain quickly, I would try a couple base maps until you get a stock timing curve that works well for your car. Dyno tuning after this basic tune would get you the optimal settings for everything.
Once you get a map that has a timing curve that makes your car run nice everywhere without pinging/knocking, you can start to tune the WOT. Keep an eye on your EGT and Wideband gauge while you lay into the throttle. When you load boost tools it puts in some generic numbers for boost, these will be good enough to start figuring it all out. In Crome the Boost maps are the columns to the right with B's in front of the #'s. I tuned the injector duty cycle map mainly for fuel in boost. Everywhere the A/F dipped below or above 12:1 in boost you need to adjust. I kept going back and forth between logging a WOT pass and then tuning the injector map to get the A/F to be stable throughout the band.
ALSO, when boost tools is installed it does a generic timing retard/psi of boost. You can mess with this setting to get more power, but beware, the more you advance in boost the greater the chance for knock. I would stick with the standard .75/psi of boost. If you're feeling crazy or have a knock sensor to monitor, try going to .5/psi of boost and you'll get some more power. BUT, there's also another way to tell if the timing is too retarded in boost. If the EGT's climb real high during a long pull, most likely the timing is too retarded and is creating a lot of heat! Then go back to the .5/psi and try a run like that.
At this time you should have WOT and the stock timing curve pretty well dialed in. Now's the time to start addressing low boost/part throttle tuning. I do this with a friend usually, its hard to watch the boost gauge, tach, A/F, and EGT all at the same time while driving. With the friend hawking the gauges, accelerate into 0 or 1psi, watch the egt and a/f as you go through the band holding 0 or 1psi as close as possible. Then go back and tune the injector map just like you did for WOT. Then I do the same for 2-3psi and so on........ If you cant get all the way through the band holding part throttle, its ok. You can guesstimate a bit based on the pattern developing from the tune.
Some people will tell you this method sucks or there's is better, thats cool, please post it up. I always am up for reading more and more about tuning since I do it all me-self. I've tuned about a dozen turbo cars using my own method stated above and they ALL still run and strong
How bouts a lil rep power for me now
Steveo and Cougarxrs tried to test the BAMF Accord, they failed 
