Ian's build

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right, i cant use forged cause of the rules, but why do you suggest staying away from the CTR's formby? back the statement up with reasons please.

what are you trying to say wil? lol. im using crome pro, youd have to be an idiot to not be able to tune with it. hell the freaking thing will do it for you, lol. all you do is make the afr's right (ill probably tune them to 13.0-13.3 @WOT and a little higer in part throttle, maybe 13.9) ignition timing isnt too hard either, just advance til you ping, then pull it back some, lol. honestly the only thing i cant do myself is tune the cam timing, ill need a dyno to see the differences im making. although crome pro does have a thing where it estimates torque and HP, athough i dont know how it does it or how accurate it is.

oh and keep the suggestions comming

b16's arent an ideal match, plus the R pistons have a longer skirt = better stability in the cylinder. id really like to stick with an R piston for that reason.
 
cool good luck with the build, as for the reason behind the ctr pistons i could only imagine he says to stay away because they are heavier other than that i would like to know as well.
 
i said stay away from the CTR because of clearance issues and the CR is too much...imo...and when you start trying to tune cam timing you only have a little room to work with.....
 
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Haha...James is a douche

:mrgreen:

At least I haven't set any cars on fire, or flipped them. :p

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Haha...James is a douche

Kyle is E-tuff. He hates me, but I could care less. :)

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Haha...James is a douche

:mrgreen:


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Haha...James is a douche

is james goin to build an engine...

just givin ya' shit

Nope. The b16 will be built eventually, but it'll be put together by a shop. :)
 
Quoted post[/post]]what are you trying to say wil? lol. im using crome pro, youd have to be an idiot to not be able to tune with it. hell the freaking thing will do it for you, lol.

I'm saying a lower c/r is gonna be easier to tune.



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Haha...James is a douche

:mrgreen:

At least I haven't set any cars on fire, or flipped them. :p

You backed into a wall.
 
I've also backed into another car. I still have never damaged my own car by SETTING IT ON FIRE.
 
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I've also backed into another car. I still have never damaged my own car by SETTING IT ON FIRE.

I've never backed into an inanimate object at a whopping 3 miles per hour. My fire wasn't directly my fault...it was caused by a faulty Advance Auto Parts starter. A faulty starter had nothing to do with you backing into a wall...and another car.
 
No backing into the wall had more to do with me hitting the gas a little too hard on the final back up before I threw up the parking brake, and backing into the other car happened because I had limited room to try to back out of a raised driveway at a steep enough angle to not scrape, I just didn't happen to see the dinky ass car as I was checking my rearviews while the sun was in my eyes. Even still. Absolutely no damage to my car. Did you install your own starter? I bet thats why it caught fire. I've installed starters before, they aren't that hard to do.

But still, I've never flipped a car while trying to avoid a dog. Or gotten my CIVIC stuck in a mudhole in the middle of my parents yard. While also continuing on to get an SUV and a tow truck stuck as well.

The dinky shit I've done to my car doesn't even come close to comparing to the horrific things you've done to your cars.
 
Ian- 13:1 might be a little high, and as these guys said- you might run into some issues with cam clearance. Sure, I was running 12.6:1 on a VAFC and 12.8:1 on Hondata without any issues, but your mileage will vary.

You could..

Run the ITRs and just get more aggressive with your timing, and possibly have more room to tune the cams.

Run the CTRs and probably get more power in the end, but have a smaller tuning envelope and possibly restrict your cam adjustment range.

Personally- I would run the CTRs and have the tops coated by Swain Tech to make the engine more efficient. The pistons will last longer, you contain the combustion better (especially important with cast pistons) and you can run leaner without damaging the engine. It's worth the $150. What that compression ratio though, I'd run more aggressive cams too.
 
i dunno Mike (B16) i dont think the rules mention it. im thinking about sticking with the ITR's though, but i think im gonna get a set of new pistons and new wrist pins. there is SLIGHT play in pin.
 
ok well im bringing this back up just to keep some interest. build is temporarily on hold til spring since i couldnt get anyone who was able to help me out. as i didnt/dont have a garage or reasonable place to build an engine or pull a motor.

guess ill just give some teaser pics of the parts, lol.

JDM ITR pistons/rods with ARP bolts properly installed/stretched and rods resized

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as i said before, ill mostlikely replace the pistons. after i got them back from the machine shop i noticed some play in them, and i just get a bad feeling. that on top of a few gouge marks in them, i dont wanna chance it. it would suck for the motor to go because of something like pistons...

misc head parts, skunk2 stg2 cams, hondata IM gasket, and valve cover. painted by wil, and will be stripped and repainted by me :) ill probably go with just a simple krinkle black.

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honda stuff, head gasket, main seals, other misc seals, new oil pan pickup (mines a little dented from the pan being dented), ACL bearings, ARP head studs, rc 320cc injectors, injector resistor box, gauges w/ senders, GE oil sandwitch (for oil pressure and temp), "magic" intake :ph34r:

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better pic of gauges

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more pics of "magic" IB spec intake w/ filter

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that will be on a short ram setup. and ill be using these to relocate the battery to the frame rail right in front of the tranny so it wont be in the way of the filter

hd545stand.jpg

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but i wont be using the odyssey battery, ill be using the nrg-cell from heel-toe

nrg-civic.jpg


well thats all i really have for now, lol. ive also got an endyn catch can that i dont have pics of.

list of things i need/want before build can be underway

NRG-CELL battery
light flywheel probably like 8-12 lbs
mugen baffled oil pan
moates ostrich (not NEEDED but wanted)
pistons (as i stated above) but i might wait til i get the block apart in case i need to go to OS pistons due to needing the cylinders bored or something

and theres probably more i cant think of now. enjoy :)
 
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aaahahahaha!!!!



And you've exposed Jeff's magic intake!!! ooh noooooeeeeeeessss!!!!!!


What's Jeff gonna do now?





Other than play golf for 4 months, I mean...


:ph34r:
 
Nice pics!

Wil, that looks more like carpet lint to me. :) That or you white boys have some really itty bitty pubes. :)

WHOA! Magic intake?! What the hell is that?!
 
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aaahahahaha!!!!

And you've exposed Jeff's magic intake!!! ooh noooooeeeeeeessss!!!!!!
What's Jeff gonna do now?
Other than play golf for 4 months, I mean...


:ph34r:
lmao wil, you pick out the most random shit. and yeah recent events have made me say screw it. why produce a product and never produce any pictures.

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Nice pics!

Wil, that looks more like carpet lint to me. :) That or you white boys have some really itty bitty pubes. :)

WHOA! Magic intake?! What the hell is that?!
:werd: carpet lint

and i dunno about the magic intake. i think its supposed to be good or something :)
 
Nah, normal ass velocity stacks look different from that. That's a super big ass velocity stack.
 
Ian, buy the Moroso Road Race pan. Cheaper than the Mugen and better baffles with more capacity. I hug mine every day. :)
 
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