Ignition Coil Code! Wont Start!

[drnovascotia]

Alright

Here's a few pics. She turns over. . but won't start. Isn't getting spark. Ecu error 15 (ignition output) New plugs, plus wires, ignition coil is only 5 months old, same as battery. Dist worked before swap, and the dist wire is getting voltage as it should. I'm baffled and rather pissed, this swap is going into the 7th week.

things I notice

1. Sounds like it wants to start. . but won't!

2. Off battery, barely cranks. . but when jump starting from another car cranks a LOT!

3. Tested everything from the manual and took apart dist today. . still no go!

4. I'm fricken CLUELESS right now!

Dr.

 

[drnovascotia]

come on. . hondaswap.com home of the swappers has no help ? Where's the honda love?

Dr.

 

[jbtank85]

Could be timing?Maybe how is the injectors? and fuel pump?

 

[drnovascotia]

Thanks for the ideas,

Timing is like perfect (or so I hope) . . I'll add a pic to be 100% sure.

Like I said, gets fuel, so that rules out fuel pump and injectors.

Anyone have idea?

Dr.

 

[tigger97005]

Two things to check. Pull the ignitor from the dizzy and check the name.
Honda uses to major suppliers. NEC and OKI. If its OKI it is NOT ok. They have a high failure rate. NEC stills fails but at a much lower rate. The other thing to inspect is the Main relay ( located under the left corner of the dash) really difficult to get the 10mm bolt out but you can just use a small flat blade and pry on the short sides to release the electronics form the case. When u get it out inspect the solder joints REALLY close. They have a tendency to crack at the power in line.
Main relays are fairly inexpensive (35-45$) Dealer part. Ignitors tend to be anywhere from 85$ to 150$. Unfortunately the relay will usually set a code 17 not 15 but I have seen 15 set with a failed main relay. Good luck.

 

[colejm]

Originally posted by tigger97005@Aug 26 2004, 12:00 AM
Two things to check. Pull the ignitor from the dizzy and check the name.
Honda uses to major suppliers. NEC and OKI. If its OKI it is NOT ok. They have a high failure rate. NEC stills fails but at a much lower rate. The other thing to inspect is the Main relay ( located under the left corner of the dash) really difficult to get the 10mm bolt out but you can just use a small flat blade and pry on the short sides to release the electronics form the case. When u get it out inspect the solder joints REALLY close. They have a tendency to crack at the power in line.
Main relays are fairly inexpensive (35-45$) Dealer part. Ignitors tend to be anywhere from 85$ to 150$. Unfortunately the relay will usually set a code 17 not 15 but I have seen 15 set with a failed main relay. Good luck.

[post=381931]Quoted post[/post]​

I'm searcing this board with the same exact problem. Code 15 and no spark. Also no 5 VDC on the sensors or ELD. Did you figure this out?

 

[dragon2003]

my car did the same thing, all i did is take the dizzy out and turn the rotor 180 degrees. so try that. and good luck

 

[1gEF-8]

Originally posted by dragon2003@Mar 21 2005, 06:31 PM
my car did the same thing, all i did is take the dizzy out and turn the rotor 180 degrees. so try that. and good luck

[post=476647]Quoted post[/post]​

the slots on the cam are offset to prevent the dizzy from being mounted 180 deg. off.

"I'm searcing this board with the same exact problem. Code 15 and no spark. Also no 5 VDC on the sensors or ELD. Did you figure this out?"

is your wiring spliced to the dizzy? if so make sure you dont have the two white wires on the 8 pin connector. the one white wire that is not paired up with another wire is the one that goes to your igniter. the other is to your crank angle.

" Also no 5 VDC on the sensors or ELD. Did you figure this out?"

no 5 vdc?? 5 volts dc??

 

[brian11to1]

Originally posted by tigger97005@Aug 25 2004, 11:00 PM
Two things to check. Pull the ignitor from the dizzy and check the name.
Honda uses to major suppliers. NEC and OKI. If its OKI it is NOT ok. They have a high failure rate. NEC stills fails but at a much lower rate. The other thing to inspect is the Main relay ( located under the left corner of the dash) really difficult to get the 10mm bolt out but you can just use a small flat blade and pry on the short sides to release the electronics form the case. When u get it out inspect the solder joints REALLY close. They have a tendency to crack at the power in line.
Main relays are fairly inexpensive (35-45$) Dealer part. Ignitors tend to be anywhere from 85$ to 150$. Unfortunately the relay will usually set a code 17 not 15 but I have seen 15 set with a failed main relay. Good luck.

[post=381931]Quoted post[/post]​

If it were the main relay then it wouldnt be getting fuel or spark and alos no power to the ECU to flash a code 15. Code 15 is something inside the distributor. You should repalce the dizzy with one that works... IE from a running car.

Brian

 

[1gEF-8]

.[/QUOTE]if so make sure you dont have the two white wires on the 8 pin connector.
i ment make sure you dont have the two white wires crossed on the 8 pin connector

 

[1gEF-8]

*if so make sure you dont have the two white wires on the 8 pin connector.*

i ment make sure you dont have the two white wires crossed on the 8 pin connector

 

[b16efhatch]

what distributor could I use to replace it? besides searching for a jdm b16a distributor. I have the same problem.