My newest build for SCCA STL/HPDE's

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

Sounds like a blast!

These guys apparently finished 7th last year at PBIR I just found out and are drag racers. They are very welcoming of someone that can turn left and right lol.

Im trying to see if they will do chump car at Sebring because its my home course. I could actually be comfortable and slowly roll into it hard after awhile instead of learning a new car and new track. Either way, Im doing it if everything permits.

Damn Im excited.
 
You get so much seat time don't worry about new car and new track, you'll learn in the 2 hours you're spending out there. You don't want to push the car that much in the beginning anyways, its all about self preservation at that point.

7th overall is damn good. Finishing top 10 takes talent and a little luck. :)
 
They were running an old neon, I thought that was damn good too for drag racers with no track time really. Im going to find out more soon.
 
any one in the stl area want to buy a civic,
4 door, 5 speed, all stock, asking $1500
runs and drive good
 
hey asshat.. does this look like the right place to post that shit? find the correct forum and create your own thread
 
lol I just saw that post...STL class and he is thinking St Louis...

Anyway.

I feel like blowing this car up! I installed the oil cooler adapter and shocker it doesn't fit. So I take out the oil bolt thing from the block and cut off like a half inch and it fits after some swearing and wrenching.

I fire the car up and look in the engine bay and its leaking like crazy from the oil cooler...awesome. Took it all a apart and the threading some how was stripped. Again a friend threaded it on helping me install and this what I get.

So I fix that issue and now Im getting Oil PSI of like 70 at 3k rpms...wtf. I ordered a line and fittings to run my gauge from the oem location instead of the remote filter to see how off it is and maybe it is just because of the remote location. I get 95 psi at around 7500+ rpms with 5-20 synthetic. Those parts will be here this week so I will run 2 gauges I guess.

The car runs like shit, I have a CE light that I cant diagnose which I think is a bad tps sensor so the car drives terrible......Im very frustrated and pissed.

Good news is the car gets dropped off for the roll cage in 2 weeks.

I will update soon.

On another note, I possibly will be purchasing a D15B7 and taking out the swap so I can run in ITB in SCCA instead. So that could be a whole other build all together. That way I can run in multiple classes if I want if the field in STL is like 2 cars.
 
70 psi @3k and 95psi @7.5k is perfectly fine, IMO. the general consensus is that you want at least 10psi/1k rpms, youre well over that.
 
The oil lines are -10 an but I dont know what the inner diameter is.

I forget to mention the freaking oil pan is leaking too, its odd that its leaking from the same place the other motor leaked. Front where the bottom of the ac would be and on the corner where the oil pump meets. This is obviously my doing since it was on 2 motors now. I just dont understand it, I used a oem gasket with a light finger coating of hondabond. The only thing I can think of is I over-tightened the oil pan or it warped when it had the baffles welded. Im leaning towards me screwing up. Im going to go check the CE light again and take a picture of the leak.
 
-10 is the same size I run on mine, so you're good. I had heard of people having pressure problems with -12 sizes.

Pan might be bent a little right there.
 
Well I didnt investigate the pan much but I pulled code 3 so I swapped the plugs around and still code 3. I replaced the map sensor with a new one and now I get code 3 and code 7 for TPS sensor.

I have cleared the ecu each time but I havent checked voltages. The only other thing I guess could be wiring or ecu which were fine until now.

Oil psi is varying between 30-40 around 1k so not too high.
 
Do you think your pressures are too low or something? They look fine to me. Can't tell from your posts what you think is wrong with them.
 
Im thinking they are too high, I would like for them to be closer to the 10 psi per 1000 rpms.

High psi could mean I have problems some where.

Once I hook up a gauge to the block I will have dual readouts so I will feel better then. I ordered a low pressure light and sender to T off the new gauge.
 
They do look high, mine are around 75-80psi at redline. And around 50psi at idle. Maybe non-vtec blocks with vtec oil pumps make more pressure (they're expecting oil squirters?) I'm assuming you're running a vtec pump.
 
Yeah the vtec pump is the same as the ls pump for obd2 so I'm not sure if that is an issue.

They changed the pumps to the vtec pump in 96.
 
So I'm an idiot. The CE light was my own doing, when I disconnected the vafc I forgot to reconnect the map sensor!

ID-10T lol

I bought some cool shit I will post later.
 
Last edited:
Im leaning towards me screwing up.

I'm leaning towards it being warped from the welding. Any time I weld on an aluminum valve cover or an aluminum oil pan, it HAS to be bolted down. I will NOT modify a valve cover without a head to bolt it to and I will make a fixture to bolt an oil pan down to if I am doing a repair. Aluminum is a fantastic conductor and highly prone to warping.
 
That could be what happened.

I bought a bunch of wire today and other cool parts from skycraft which has everything you could ever want....wiring, switches, hoses etc. I also got my pegasus order in

37116375.jpg


ignition switch, push start, low oil psi sensor with red dummy light, fittings 1/8bsp to 1/8npt for the block, 1/8 tee, braided line, additional oil psi gauge. I also bought about 16 feet of 4g wire as well as 8g wire.

I will have a lot of wiring to do after the cage is done in a couple weeks.

I will try to get some more pics, I drove the car today with it running right and it really rips hard.

Oil psi was at around 50 at 1500 rpms with a temp of about 190. Seemed better from what I was getting the other day.
 
Last edited:
Lookin good! Can't wait to see this thing on track!
 
Thanks, I'm dying to get out there....the point of no return on this car is this weekend.

Roll cage should take 2-3 weeks because I don't want him rushing. This will give me a good opportunity to clean out the garage.

Anyone have any suggestions for how to get my car to the track?

Im considering renting a trailer but uhaul looks super expensive....Im not in a position to buy one right now and if I did I would need to buy a very lightweight expensive trailer.

I have tow vehicles I could use that could handle a heavier trailer to a point. I might get lucky and be able to borrow my friends truck and trailer but you know how that goes.
 
Back
Top