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OBDII 97 EK swap to B18B1 non-vtec

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by bfraley, Apr 8, 2008.

  1. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    I've read through most of the posts by retired and senior members. I'm collecting parts to perform a B18b1 OBDII non-VTEC swap into my 97 Civic DX 5 speed hatch. My goal is to have a sleeper that would make a mechanic take a second look to make sure EKs didn't come with B18B1 engines in the base model. Honda purist if you will. I've done a ton of research and will be taking a week off of work in May to do the duty. What I've purchased so far:

    96 JDM OBDII B18b1 w/5speed tranny, engine harness, accessories, ECU, new axles, new Integra catalytic converter, stage 1 clutch, front end ball joint/tie rod kit, H&R OE springs, KYB GR2 struts, Integra shift linkage w/new bushings, motor mounts from a 00 Civic Si, JDM B18B1 timing belt kit...I think that's it so far.

    I still have some questions reqarding the swap:

    What is the best radiator for the money I can purchase to replace the D16Y7 Civic radiator with the B18 radiator?

    I understand there a total of 5 rubber motor mounts and all 5 from the D16y7 can be used with the B18, however the metal brackets/mounts are a different story. I currently have the T bracket and cam end metal mount/bracket from a 00 Civic Si. According to all the posts I've read, I'm all set to bolt in the B18. I noticed the passenger side tranny metal bracket has a different PN between the D16 and B18 applications. Will this bracket work on both?

    I've read that the wiring harness from the D16 to B18 nonvtec(both OBDII) only needs minor work with some wire extensions and plug swaps from the B18 harness to the D16 harness. Does anyone have a detailed description of the wire harness changes that need to be made? Are all sensors in fact a one to one swap?

    Thanks for your help!
     
  2. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    UPDATE:

    I researched and found the best bang for the buck in a daily driver radiator is the 97 Del Sol VTEC 2row radiator. It is exactly the same fit as my D16Y7 radiator, but has 2row cooling and 1 1/4" in/out connections for B series engine. I just got one in yesterday and it is a great fit! Just what I needed.

    Researched my motor mounts again to tie up loose ends in that area and all is well. I have all stock mounts/brackets for the main three mounts as well as the two front torque mounts.

    Last issues to research are the wiring harness and vacuum lines. The intake differences between the 97 Civic DX hatch D16Y7 and the 96 LS B18b are confusing and I'm not sure how to tackle them. Is there anyone here who has the directions or experience to tell me what mods need to be done to convert my D16Y7 wiring harness to plug into a B18b non-VTEC engine? I called Rywire and they told me the time/money spent on the mods for this setup would be a waste since it is less than an hours worth of work. I asked them to sell me the instructions so I could do the wiring harness mods myself, but they weren't interested in doing that. Any help in the D16Y7 to B18b non-VTEC wiring harness changes would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!!
     
  3. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    OK......Since Rywire.com makes a living from building hybrid engine harnesses, who better to consult? I gave Peter Ittner from Rywire a call a few minutes ago. He was gracious enough to spend a few minutes with me to ensure me that the DX wiring harness, that is stock in my car, is the best possible solution that I have to successfully accomplish this engine swap. 96 JDM B18b non-VTEC(OBD2) into 97 EK DX D16Y7 (OBD2)car. I recently had suggestions that I needed an EK EX harness(OBD2) or an Integra LS harness(OBD2). I'm going to inspect both the JDM B18 and my running D16Y7 this weekend and maybe even start extending required sensor cables on the D16 harness so that when swap day comes I'll spend minimum time on harness mods.

    If anyone has any input or feedback, please contribute.

    Thanks!!!!
     
  4. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    Good news! I went through both the JDM B18b and D16Y7 ECU connectors and found what the JDM B18b does not need and what it does need in reference to the D16Y7 harness. See below for a list of issues, fixes and impacts. Use OBD2 ECU pinout for reference.

    The JDM B18b does not need the Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor(A5,D13,D14). This is the one on the cat. Unfortunately I have to keep the cat on the car as I live in an emission state that inspects for it, but I can just plug the O2 boss on the cat. The JDM B18b only needs the Primay Heated Oxygen Sensor before the cat and a wire extension may be needed for it. Leave D16Y7 Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor harness connector open and pull A5/D13/D14 from ECU connectors. There is no impact to B18b or EK operation.

    The JDM B18b Idle Air Control Valve(A12) is a two wire setup but the D16Y7 Idle Air Control Valve(A13,A14) is a three wire setup. The fix is to move D16Y7 ECU connector wire A14 to ECU connector A12 and pull/cap ECU connector wire A13. There is no impact to B18b or EK operation.

    The JDM B18b does not need the Crankshaft Speed Flucuation Sensor(C1,C11). Leave D16Y7 Crankshaft Speed Flucuation Sensor harness connector open and pull C1/C11 from ECU connector. There is no impact to B18b or EK operation.

    The JDM B18b does not need the Evaporative Emission Purge Control Solenoid Valve(A15). Leave D16Y7 Evaporative Emission Purge Control Solenoid Valve harness connector open and pull wire A15 from the ECU connector. EK does have an Evaporative Emission Purge Control system in place. What is the impact to EK if Evaporative Emission Purge Control is removed? What is the fix for this change? No impact to B18b operation.

    The JDM B18b is wired for the Power Steering Pressure Switch(C16), however my EK does not have power steering. No action is required. What is the impact of JDM B18b ECU not receiving the Power Steering Pressure Switch(C16) signal? No impact to EK operation.

    If anyone can answer or give input on the questions in this post I would greatly appreciate it.

    Thanks!!!
     
  5. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Well after reading through all that, it looks like you've done your homework and answered most of your questions. If you are running a jdm ecu then you won't get a CEL from not having the evap stuff installed. I don't think you will need it to pass emissions either. If you live in CA where inspections are rediculous, then you might have to do something about running evap. Don't worry about the power steering switch either. It is there so the IACV increases engine idle because of the load power steering puts on the engine.

    Post pics of your build! I'd like to see an OEM looking swap build in the process.
     
  6. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    I have been taking pics but nothing specific. I'm doing the actual swap on 17/18 May. I'm doing all the prep work now so everything will go smoothly and successfully.......famous last words! I'll be sure to keep a collection of pics for the whole process. I'm in the middle of changing the timing belt, water pump and tension pulley on the JDM B18b. Next is putting in a new clutch. I've heard some bad stuff about ordering parts off of ebay. My timing belt is made by CONTITECH and my waterpump/tension pulley are made by GMB. My clutch kit is a stage 1 XTR clutch from Gripforce. Does anyone have any experience with these brands? Should I look at using different brands? I'll be running a stock JDM B18b and LS tranny. Thanks!
     
  7. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    OEM Honda is always the best option for the timing belt/water pump. I'm not saying that what you bought is going to fail and trash your engine, but the truth is that you get what you pay for.

    I've never heard of that clutch brand. Do a google search on the company. See if there are other people out there using it. If its an "ebay special" clutch that looks like a no-name chinese copy of something then I'd stay away. I always recommend the Exedy Stage 1 clutch for milder builds.
     
  8. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    This is my first Honda build and I'm feeling the $$$ pain of the learning curve. I'm really not into trying these no-name parts as an experiment. Research tells me Honda is the way to go so I'll go buy the Honda stuff and suck it up. Thanks.

    change to the change----- I didn't buy Honda parts due to budget and hope that all goes well with the EBAY parts I purchased.
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2008
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  9. Annihilator

    Annihilator Honda destroyer

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    I have no answers for questions unfortunately, however I GREATLY appreciate you posting all of your progress. I am getting ready to do the exact same swap...99 b18b1 into a 96 hatch with a d16y7. I had no idea what was involved in the swap as I bought the b18 out of a junkyard car on a whim because I knew it would fit.

    Anyways, good luck on finishing the swap, and please keep us updated!
     
  10. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    Please remember that my swap is using a 96 JDM B18b OBD2a engine. I do not know if the USDM B18b engines have the same wiring as the JDM b18b engines. I would say the USDM B18b swap should be easier as it should have the second O2 sensor wiring, purge valve wiring, etc.....to match US emssions. You would need to verify this for yourself. One thing I have learned about this whole process is to treat it the same as the nuclear drawdown in Russia. Trust but verify! There is a lot of good info on this site and the internet, but if it doesn't apply specifically to your project then you need to put in some time to research it yourself to ensure you are doing it right the first time if possible.

    My goal with this project is to complete the engine swap in two days and have the engine start with no CEL on the first crank. This is my commuter car and I drive 120 miles a day for work. It needs to be reliable. Honda engineers have done thier part and now I just need to do mine. These cars are great!
     
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  11. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    The wiring harness plugs are exactly the same be it a jdm or us b18b or a d series motor. The dx harness will plug right into the jdm engine. (You can't use the JDM harness b/c its for a rhd car). You may have to run a wire for the knock sensor, I can't remember if obd2 d series have them. Other than that its a plug and play job
     
  12. Luis998

    Luis998 Honda Enthusiast

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    I tip my hat to you for all of the research and preparation you have done for your swap. It is refreshing to see someone take initiative and do some research before hand. I wish you the best with everything. Please keep us updated and post some pictures when you are done. :thumbsup:
     
  13. 90DATeggy

    90DATeggy The Pussi Snatcher

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    +2 on the tip off the hat..ive seen most people on here tackle motor swaps and not know what the hell there doing..ive seen countless people few hours from completing a project and not know what the hell to rewire or wire up..congrats and hope to see the finish product my friend
     
  14. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    Thanks for the positive feedback! I've been busy this weekend. I installed B18b timing belt, tension pulley, water pump and cam/crank seals. I also pulled the flywheel and clutch from the B18b. See attch pics. I included the pics of the 97 hatch, the new B18b and post timing belt replacement. So far, I've installed Civic Si seats and threw on a set of 17" BBS rims. I'll try to keep the thread updated as I progress. Let me know if there are any specific pics you are looking for and I'll do my best to include them.
     

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  15. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Looks like a pretty nice little project! :thumbsup:
     
  16. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    A question on the cam seals. When I replaced the cam seals I seated them as far as they would go. Does anybody know if this is the right procedure? I'm not sure if it even makes a difference but I just wanted to check to be sure. I think the stock seals I took out were flush with the outside edge of the seal seat. The new seals are in a little bit. Thanks for the feedback! It is appreciated.
     
  17. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    I just got off the phone with my local NAPA store. $80 to turn the B18b flywheel or $72.50 for a brand new flywheel. I'm picking up the new flywheel and rear main seal kit this afternoon. I'm also going to replace the tranny axle seals. Is there anything else I should be replacing on the long block/tranny before the engine goes in?

    Thanks for any help!
     
  18. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    I would recommend just changing the simple things that are a pain to get to when the engine is already in the car (timing belt, water pump, etc.)

    Excellent job thus far, though. You will be happy when your engine is in and running smoothly because you took the time to replace some crucial parts and pieces.
     
  19. bfraley

    bfraley Active Member

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    Update:

    I just received my Suspension Techniques front/rear sway bar kit today(52168). I'm a bit concerned about the fab to install as my 97 DX didn't come with any stabilizer bars from the factory. My main concern is attaching mounting hardware to points not originally designed to support the extra stress. Anyone out there use this kit yet? Any advice to ensure a strong setup? Thanks!
     
  20. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    I think you will be okay.

    Though Honda didn't put the swaybars on the DX from the factory, they did put them on some Civics (EX and SI mainly) and I'm almost positive they still put the holes there for them on our DX's. :)
     
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