project civic 'poor mans type r' 56k warning

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Very nice! That doesn't look too "poor man" to me. I think you'll make your 220whp goal without any problems.
 
you said the manifold is port matched.. is that to the head also?? and did you remember to make sure the gasket isnt smaller than the ports..
 
I think i used the wrong wording:
eg6sir the head was gasket matched and so was the intake manifold in fact the manifold needed quite a bit of opening up as it didn't come any where close to matching (there were also a lot of casting in the runners which were polished out).

Update: I gave up on Hy-tech, 6 weeks and nothings ready to ship yet, i got the usual call back next Friday i might have it out by then (in his defense he is extremely busy and i'm sure he makes better money off bigger jobs). So i went with an a'pexi ws2 muffler and a magnaflow 18' resonator, they should both be here by the 11th. So back to waiting but at least i have tracking numbers.
 
Update: Ok bad day. Dyno was today and I have a leaky cam seal which I will get replaced tomorrow if I can. The power was lower than expected, although I was told the dyno dynamic dyno's give low numbers to begin with.

Here's a pic of the car on the dyno
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Final numbers with my stuff was 153.6 to the wheels and 117 torque (very smooth torque graph across all rpms).
Although with a change of the intake to a S2 manifold it increased to 168 but it wasn't mine so it had to go back.
The trans, doesn't reverse, all other gears are fine. WTF is up with that? (Looks like a ITR trans is going to go back in it's place)
And I was told to scrap my cams for some toda3's, and I would see close to my goal.
So at least it drives now and in the next month I'll be getting the few other parts I'm going to need to approach my final goals. I'll post dyno graph later have to get my scanner up and running or I guess I could take a pic of it with my camera.
 
Alright somethings wrong with it, taking it apart right now. When I actually picked up the car it drove like shit, and about halfway home the car started smoking (not a little smoke but movie smokescreen style smoke.) It ended up burning 2 quarts of oil just getting it the 25 miles home, stopped and checked the oil twice. I also smelled a lot of fuel when I was adding the oil, figured I'd hook up my fuel pressure gauge when i got home and its at 70psi (when the pump kicks on) and 82 psi when the cars running.

Why would an NA car need that much fuel? or Why would they set it that high, stock is 52 right? I have 310 injectors.

Talked to the shop and they said they raised the fuel pressure because the car was running out of fuel 90% duty cycle at around 8000 rpms, so they raised the fuel pressure and at 9200 rpms they put it at 70% duty cycle. That's a lot of damn fuel, right?

So my guess is excess amounts of fuel gave me low numbers on the dyno, which in turn washed out the rings, which in turn gives me a smoke blowing PoS. Does that sound about right ? Or does anyone else have any idea's?
 
I'm gettin a brake specific fuel consumption of .68 lbs with those numbers, which is way to high for a n/a motor. it should be around .50.
when you do run your motor at 210 at the wheels (assuming 15% for drivetrain loss)
then you will want your fuel pressure at around 80 to 90 psi. (or get larger injectors)
but right now its just too much.
 
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It's a gray smoke, but anything past 40% throttle it would turn black and then on release of the throttle it would turn back white. There's a oil fuel mix all through my exhaust now, took the header off last night, and its soaked with black oil and smells very much like fuel. I also have my intake off and it looks fine so the oil isn't coming into the engine that way.
 
Sounds like a blown headgasket combined with a very VERY rich mix due to your fuel pressure. I'd have it re-tuned with bigger injectors so that you can run stock fuel pressure, but you'll probably have to pull the head to check and see why you're getting oil in your combustion chamber. It's usually the head gasket, but it could be valve stem seals. Either way, pull the head :(
 
Leak down showed all my exhaust ports are leaking out, head gasket seemed fine, so do the rings (no play in the pistons at all and no hissing coming from the oil cap), still a bit of hone left the cylinder walls. Got the head off an hour ago and going to take it to the machine shop tomorrow. I don't know why it didn't smoke more on the dyno and the minute I pick it up something happened to it, but for now all I can tell that's wrong with it is all the cylinders are loosing pressure through the valves.

Still doesn't explain the oil unless it was coming from the valve seals...
 
Pics of the aftermath:

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on the last picture if you look at the area in between the exhaust valves that little clear spot is present at each combustion chamber in the exact same spot, there doesn't seem to be any marks on the pistons is this from the leak down where the air was escaping or what would cause that?
 
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It looks like there's a ton of oil in the water jacket. Are you absolutely positive that the head gasket didn't blow? Because that's sure what it looks like.
 
thats just the camera casting shadows and screwing with it, its light green in color with only a small amount on top from taking the head off. I drained the radiator as well and it isn't oily.
The oil in the block is now drained too and it seems just burnt, (blackish/gray), not the consistency you'd see with oil and coolant.
That much oil is coming from somewhere but everything is checking out, except the exhaust valves, and unless it was missing a valve seal I don't think that much oil would show up in the cylinder.
 
Wow. Thats the kind of #'s my brother got in his blown-headgasket-stock GSR.
I hope you fix it!
 
Update Found the Problem:

One of the valve guides was dead, split in two, machine shop asked to keep it so no picture of that sorry. All the valve guides were loose, clearance between the valves and the guides were not in tolerance (there for valves weren't seating correctly, which is why I was loosing 20% on leak down through the exhaust valves).

New Parts:
440 RC injectors
New set of ARP head studs
Stock Honda Valve Guides
JE Piston Rings
Skunk2 Valves
Cometic Head Gasket
Seals
ACL Bearings

New work:
Trans Has been fixed
Hone and decked block
Valve Guide Install / new valves installed / new valve job (5 angle on both intake and exhaust)
its also been shaved again (so a little more compression).

Pics


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Hope to get everything in this weekend, waiting on the 40/40 break proportioning valve from Honda, should be here Friday, I want to put that in before the motor looks like it'd be a pain with it in there. I have a new chip for Chrome, to take the car back down to 50psi fuel pressure and using the 440 injectors (just a base map, with a little timing retard). Tuning will be a few weeks away, but ill keep you all up to date on it, hoping this has got all the problems worked out.
 
Nice lookin project man, at least youre gettin everything sorted out now.

Nice work :thumbsup:
 
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