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Roll Cage for my rex.

Discussion in 'Civic and CRX - EF' started by Andrew, Jun 29, 2006.

  1. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    I know there not the easiest thing to install, but I'm looking to put a roll cage in my CRX. I've got a friend that welds for a living, and has put one in his race-only truck, so he can help me get it welded in.

    I'm just wondering whats the best company to buy from?
    Heres a few I've found:

    S & W Race Cars
    Art Morrison

    Theres no doubt it's gonna tighten up the chassis, and provide much more safety if I get into an accident(happy about that), but how much increase in handleing should I be kinda expecting?

    THanks
    -Andrew
     
  2. Citizen_Insane

    Citizen_Insane Senior Member

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    Do you plan on driving this car on the street? If so, don't cage it. A car with a cage is EXTREMELY dangerous on the road. You no longer will have the factor crumple zones working the way they should. The added stiffness of the chasis means that less of the energy from the crash goes into bending up the car and more of it goes into you. It is a comon misconception that cages make a car more safe. Its ONLY true on the track. You will only be safe if you're wearing a 4+ point harness and a helmet. Do you really want to wear helmet every time you get in your car to get groceries?
     
  3. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    Well, thanks for bringing that to my attention.
    I'll be putting a racing harness in my car eventually, so I'll need at least a bar back there, like a 2/4 pt(the first one on Art Morrison's site), and thats all. I do NOT want to have to climb over a bar to get into my seat, so 6/8/10pt is out.. I mainly just wanted it for the harness.

    -Andrew
     
  4. Citizen_Insane

    Citizen_Insane Senior Member

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    Well, a roll bar like you're talking about should be ok. I'm actually thinking about doing the same in my CRX. You just don't want anything in front of your head (like a full cage would) because you could hit your head on it in the event of a crash. Thats why I say you have to have a helmet + harness.
     
  5. cresko

    cresko gear head

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    has anyone heard anything about making their own roll cage. i am welding apprentice and i was thinking about it. what kind of steel should i use.. or should i use a dif. alloy
     
  6. turbo sol

    turbo sol I need some ligaments!!!

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    maybe a mild 6 point. that or just stiffen the chassis by cross members or c-pillar bar, strut tower bars, and some lower bars for stability.
     
  7. cresko

    cresko gear head

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    has anybody used titanium for a rollcage. should i get one to go behind my pedals and stop my motor from caving my chest in if i get in a head-on collision.
     
  8. Exodus

    Exodus Junior Member

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    Titanium would be pretty expensive.

    The cage should be put in the chassis while it's on a frame jig. Optimal safety, handling, structural rigidity and reduction of any stress in the chassis when adding a roll cage is done by jigging the car. It's the only correct way to really modify a chassis. It's almost like the tare button on a scale in a way.

    For a street car, you probably should stick with a 4pt. and don't have anything coming up in front of your seats.

    Make sure you prep the cage and paint it or something as well. Rusty cages in cars are so ugly, and eventually unsafe.

    Plus, if you are getting to that level with your car, buy a fuel cut off switch, a real, certified one, and put it in. You might as well have that, and like, a mini cage-mountable fire extinguisher.

    Your putting a cage in the car considering your safety ( cough*and performance*cough ), so you might as well have those other couple of things that can save your life or a lot of money.

    The plates for your main hoop need to be welded on under the car. That means the rhino lining or any coating down there needs to be scraped, and holes cut in your floor board. Doing this assists in measuring the correct closeness of your hoop to the ceiling ( I think you want about a 1\4 of an inch ) by letting the hoop come up and down when it's legs have the floor to poke through. Ya get it in place, trim the legs of the hoop, weld up the plates on both sides.. yadda yadda.

    Have a crossbar in the hoop, no shit.

    I've heard of people welding up some rear suspension\chassis stiffening shit. Look it up here and Honda-Tech, you might as well while you're at it!

    If you're also into more custom stuff like that while you're welding anyway. Consider fabbing up replacement bumpers for your car (the real ones, not the plastic covers). The generally rust out and provide very little real assistance in wrecks (we drive 20-16 yr old cars man). Lemme see if I can find an example picture of one.. it's on Larry Widmer's personal FOURTH GEN BABY:

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    Is that your car Exodus?
    Got a build thread for me to peruse?
     
  10. Exodus

    Exodus Junior Member

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  11. formby

    formby learning in progress

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  12. Ronny Cage

    Ronny Cage DaughterTestedMomApproved

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  13. hcivic.com

    hcivic.com Senior Member

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    Two choices steel or cromoly, Best choice unless you have deep pockets is steel. The most important thing to remember is that its a seamless tubing ie: DOM. Bending is also a factor the benders usally run 1500 and up. Notching must also be done. Its alot of work but can be done

    Titanium is not posible. And a dash bar is not doable in your car without lossing comforts

    Shut up.
    1)Frame Jig Hell no I have never heard or seen this done. The only time a cage hits a jig is if its a tube chassis
    2) DO NOT PRE PAINT BEFORE WELDING This will cause extremly weak welds filled with porosity
    3)The plates go inside the car not outside and under, you grind down the paint and use a torch to bend and mold them to fit and weld in, 6*6 is a good size. Also for some extra stregth drill 4 holes through the plate and plug weld them up
    4)leave the stock bumpers alon they are a folded steel, and made to give and fold
     
  14. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    1. Have you ever read posts about people putting they're rex's on jigs? I know I have.
    2. They're nothing wrong with prepainting, you just need to grind down the weld points.(not everybody wants to completely strip/paint the interior of the car.)
    3. I agree. I've never heard of anybody welding they're cage under the body either.
    4. on a track car, you don't nessesarily want give and fold. you want a solid car, hence the purpose of all these traction bars, strut bars, roll cages.......
     
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