Used turbo or New turbo ? Help!

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LS_VTEC said:
(my buddy ran that one for a while with no issue untill he had to upgrade to a larger flow for his new larger turbo, and my other buddy will continue it's use), with tig welds, you'll be just fine!
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TIG welding is for aluminum.[/quote]

i think you should google before you answer...

Gas tungsten arc welding (GTAW), also known as tungsten inert gas (TIG) welding.... ...GTAW is most commonly used to weld thin sections of stainless steel and light metals such as aluminum, magnesium, and copper alloys.
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Gas tungsten arc welding - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

^_^
 
HmMmMm...well like I said if I am only probably gonna be pushing 7-9 PSI..no one has answered that question yet wouldn't that be a factor in a sense that if I get a half way decent one only pushing that much psi maybe I would be ok? I mean ya'll know more than I do thats just what I was thinking but ya'll tell me....
 
I don't need to read anything, I TIG weld myself. TIG welding steel is decent for stationary items with no movement. If you TIG weld a stainless steel manifold (which I have done before), The welds will not hold up especially under heat/pressure. You need to do more research before you google search TIG WELDING and try to be an expert on HS and make people who have real experience with it look bad. :)
 
newb said:
I use to TIG steel all day long.
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Than its pretty obvious you never were taught correctly how to weld steel. My objective here is this, do it right the first time. Don't try to be a backyard "welder", so to speak. Understand how metals are broken down, their melting points, and when they enter a change of state, how and why.
 
Your right I wasnt taught correctly. Boeing tooling doesnt need to be welded togather correctly. :)
 
ok duder (ls_vtec), i used that link as reference incase my non-auto-school'd word doesnt hold up well. i think my buddy knows what he's doing. he welds all day long and would understand if it were weak or not. he fixes semi's for a living. welds steel, or alluminum. been through ASE's. i do computers for a living...



to the OP, that's such little boost. but idk. for peace of mind i'd still buy the trusted proven one.
 
yeah thats true, one good thing about what I see for the obx manifold is it says it has a lifetime warranty from factory defects, so if it cracked wouldn't that be covered? (not trying to argue or go against anything, just looking at it from all angles)
 
hey that's cool man keep askin. better to know your buying 100% what you actually want than to hope for the best.

since i havnt directly delt with those before, i cant say exactly how that warrenty is set up. does it matter if your buying it from some random dealer or do you have to buy it from OBX for that warrenty to be in effect? And yes, what exactly do they define by 'factory defects'. they might tell you if it arrived in one, undented peice, that's all they'll cover. sorry i cant be of more help than to just suggest more research of your own..
 
The OBX one doesn't look too bad, some of their stuff is acceptable.

Have you chosen a turbo yet? Cause 7-9 psi may not meet your goal and you may up the boost right from the jump.

I used a log style mani on one of my setups and it worked great.

I'd recommend the log style, you're not shooting for high HP and you can always replace the mani if you want more power.
 
well please don't kill me if what I am about to say doesn't make sense but like I said before my goal is anywhere between 2-300, but I was told with the engine I am getting (130 HP ZC), doing some bottom end work to it, planning on getting new pistons and rods (not that I am saying that will add HP just saying) but with that engine,some bottom end work, a few other mods and then putting a turbo on would prob put me in the upper 200's...does that sound right? and like I said I am ok with at least 200 or so, my goal is is to just have a daily driver with a little something under the hood than can hold it down when need be. So I figred a turbo'd eg hatch with some mod's would be all i needed and problem more
 
oh and no I haven't chosen a turbo yet...I was advised good manifold, good turbo, and good wastegate with inexpensive everything else would do me just fine...I am trying to keep the build around $1000 and I think with the right buys I could prob. do that...I have seen it done before so I am hoping I can do it as well
 
yeah pistons and rods are an improvement. they will give you a little more leway with boost. but, the next weakest point is your cylinders. if you can get them re sleeved with cast iron, they will hold boost much better. since your a daily driver, you want some degree of reliability. i think you should shoot for low 200. but possibly have a second ecu profile for high boost, maybe you can achieve a 240~250hp figure with, and only run that for drag event. depends on the size turbo you end up goin with. figure that out yet?
 
YBLEGAL said:
hey that's cool man keep askin. better to know your buying 100% what you actually want than to hope for the best.

since i havnt directly delt with those before, i cant say exactly how that warrenty is set up. does it matter if your buying it from some random dealer or do you have to buy it from OBX for that warrenty to be in effect? And yes, what exactly do they define by 'factory defects'. they might tell you if it arrived in one, undented peice, that's all they'll cover. sorry i cant be of more help than to just suggest more research of your own..
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Hey man you have been very helpful, any help is appreciated. I am just trying to look at everything in every aspect and at every angle, so any help is all good with me, even if it don't seem like your helping a lot, thats still that much more help I had when I started of with :)
 
haha, posted while i was replying...

well, the only other thing that i guess your skimping on is the blow off valve and intercooler. lol. idk man, the turbo, exhaust mani, and wastegate is like the main ventricles of the turbo system's heart. good luck staying under 1k. idk.
 
YBLEGAL said:
yeah pistons and rods are an improvement. they will give you a little more leway with boost. but, the next weakest point is your cylinders. if you can get them re sleeved with cast iron, they will hold boost much better. since your a daily driver, you want some degree of reliability. i think you should shoot for low 200. but possibly have a second ecu profile for high boost, maybe you can achieve a 240~250hp figure with, and only run that for drag event. depends on the size turbo you end up goin with. figure that out yet?
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yeah I was looking at like a t3/t4, from what I am told thats not the biggest turbo, but I believe it has a pretty quick spool time, and as far a price and my HP goals I think that would work good?
 
YBLEGAL said:
haha, posted while i was replying...

well, the only other thing that i guess your skimping on is the blow off valve and intercooler. lol. idk man, the turbo, exhaust mani, and wastegate is like the main ventricles of the turbo system's heart. good luck staying under 1k. idk.
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well it's like I said, if I can find the right deals ya know... but also I am willing to give or take a few bucks on the $1000 goal...but before I was trying to rush and get it, now I have decided to take my time...I hope I will be able to get it by the summer but I have some other things I need to fix on my car so it all depends on how much money I use and what not
 
well i can tell you havnt actually looked at turbo's yet. t3/t4 is a term used for exhaust manifolds that have a flange capable of either. the flange on the turbo and the flange on the exhaust manifold both need to be considered. you can either buy a T3, or a T4 turbo. a T4 however, will be much too large for your engine. you'll need a T3. the T3 and T4 flanges differ, but only slightly, so the manifold can actually have holes drilled for both. so go T3, and next you need to consider trim size, among other things. it's a .xx number. like .60 trim. now's a great time to read up on forced induction. i wish i had some links for ya but just head over to the reference section > tech articles and see what we've got. i think we have a good start to it, but someone didnt finish writing. idk. or google around. hondoogle.com is great too, i keep telling people. for the total figure your looking to spend i dont think you can get a crazy turbo like dual ball bearing brand new. but i havnt looked much. i'm going to be running a TD05H with the full-race ram style mani next winter. welding the wastegate shut and making it external. i'm going to have to make an adapter plate so i can use the T25 flange of the turbo on the T3/T4 flange of the mani. o yeah, be aware you can do that tooo. but it should be fun on my B16 stock internals for a while till i rebuild and get a good turbo.

hopefully my ramble will getcha somewhere! haha
 
actually I have to be honest, i have looked at a lot of different turbo's and some of them actually said t3/t4 turbo, but thanks for clearing that up though...so I need a t3, and i will look at some articles and figure out the trim size and things...
 
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