Timing Belt Shaking

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Magana559

The Warden
well as the title says my timing belt is shaking like mad at idle! and more at higher RPM.

Engine is B16a block with 12.5:1 pistons and a GSR head with BC stage 3 cams.

could it be the cams that are causing this?

Oh and Im using a B16 timing belt from Autozone.
 
Shaking? Post a vid, I wanna see exactly what your talking about.
 
my timing belt kinda seems to shake too...i thought it was normal to shake a little :shrug2:
 
I have the video, but now i have a new problem!

Blows smoke like crazy and compression is WAY OFF!

#1 210 #2 180 #3 190 #4 220

Im guessing a broken or damaged oil rings.....Thats what I get for buying the bottom end off Ebay.

Ill post the vid in a min
 
holy crap.. off the top of my head, maybe you have the wrong belt?

That's the only thing i can think of if your adjustment is as far as it goes.
 
i agree with what Z6 just said, a B18 or B16b timing belt on a B16a block will cause the tensioner to fully adjust and not take up all the extra slack that the shorter deck height allows. if you havn't loosened the bolt for the tensioner and held pressure on the crank (counterclockwise) and retightened that bolt. do so before you try counting the teeth on that belt (mark one tooth with whiteout then count them all, if it's got 124 teeth it's for a B16a.)

worst case scenario, the tensioner is fully tightened, the belt is from a B16a and there's still that much slop in the belt. the head and block may have been milled wayyyy too much. that's very unlikely, but that's about the only thing at that point that could cause that kind of slop.
 
yeah that is not normal lol

nope ot at all.

did you adjust the tensioner pully?

yep We did, Tightened the shit out of it.

:eek: I honestly dont know what to say, that is bad.

yes verry bad but I now have bigger things to worry about!


holy crap.. off the top of my head, maybe you have the wrong belt?

That's the only thing i can think of if your adjustment is as far as it goes.

nope, Im using the B16a Timing belt, using a GSR head on a b16 block.



i agree with what Z6 just said, a B18 or B16b timing belt on a B16a block will cause the tensioner to fully adjust and not take up all the extra slack that the shorter deck height allows. if you havn't loosened the bolt for the tensioner and held pressure on the crank (counterclockwise) and retightened that bolt. do so before you try counting the teeth on that belt (mark one tooth with whiteout then count them all, if it's got 124 teeth it's for a B16a.)

worst case scenario, the tensioner is fully tightened, the belt is from a B16a and there's still that much slop in the belt. the head and block may have been milled wayyyy too much. that's very unlikely, but that's about the only thing at that point that could cause that kind of slop.

Im sure I got a B16a Belt but im not sure if i want to get another one because I first have to re-ring the block.
 
The factory tensioner does kind of a weak job putting tension on the belt. What I do is first I install the belt and turn it over a couple times to verify my marks are lining up. Then I rotate the engine so the cams just move past the 12 oclock mark, this is when the tensioner should start applying tension. Then I put the crank pully on and take a pry bar, and pry up slightly on the tensioner between the crank pulley and the tensioner, while tightening the tensioner bolt. This way you can get a little more tension on the belt. I have dont it this way for years now and it has worked great for me. It takes out that slop you feel in the belt when the cams are at 12 oclock. I say fuck worrying about the extra tension on the water pump. I rather have a decently tight belt, then get too concerned about that.
 
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