Fair enough. I wish we could just do that until he left.
Big Plans, I smell an AWD Civic
- Thread starter Ozwald
- Start date
- Replies 27
- Views 13K
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K2e2vin
Senior Member
Maybe the wagovan's would work; though I've heard of people just using the whole assembly but shortened it(cut/weld). It's 4x100 lug pattern too. Leave the CV outer joint in the CR-V's trailing arm to act as a spindle unless there's a hub that'll swap out.
Switch to a D17 transmission? IIRC, it's cable actuated too.
Last edited:
cjvictoria
Active Member
I remember seeing somewhere that there were factory AWD Integras in an Asian country that I can't recall at the moment...
I think that was just a rumor/misinformation. I heard about it too, never found any real evidence.
Ozwald
New Member
Thank you for removing the BS.
I am open to suggestions and ideas but keep them relevant such as SlushboxTeggy.
Ok, more news!!!!
Axle problem solved, i think.
One clarification to the last post, i will be swapping the transmission side of the axle to the opposite shaft to keep the lengths the same but keep the 4 and 5 lugs to their respective cars.
I sat down the other day and found the pinouts for the ECU connectors. Because the CR-V is OBDII b and the Civic is OBDII a, the CR-V will be repined.
All that is in question for the CR-V D-series swap is the shifter. Because it comes with a cable shifter and the D-series is a linkage type, i think i need to extend the length of it to attach.
If all is well and the swap starts this weekend i will have a D-series CR-V on Monday
Stay tuned. Remember, this is being done in a driveway with two guys that work 40+ hours a week. Bear with me if it takes another week to start.
I am open to suggestions and ideas but keep them relevant such as SlushboxTeggy.
Ok, more news!!!!
Axle problem solved, i think.
One clarification to the last post, i will be swapping the transmission side of the axle to the opposite shaft to keep the lengths the same but keep the 4 and 5 lugs to their respective cars.
I sat down the other day and found the pinouts for the ECU connectors. Because the CR-V is OBDII b and the Civic is OBDII a, the CR-V will be repined.
All that is in question for the CR-V D-series swap is the shifter. Because it comes with a cable shifter and the D-series is a linkage type, i think i need to extend the length of it to attach.
If all is well and the swap starts this weekend i will have a D-series CR-V on Monday
Stay tuned. Remember, this is being done in a driveway with two guys that work 40+ hours a week. Bear with me if it takes another week to start.
Ozwald
New Member
Alright to all those who thought this would die i did say an extra week might need to be taken before it starts and so it did.
Last night aside from working on a F-250, i was able to remove the harness from the B20, pull the exhaust, disconnect the drive shaft, remove the pass half shaft. The drivers half-shaft is stuck in the hub so.... little more hammering should do the trick.
So far i have not used too many tools to remove basically the front end.
36mm for axle nut
12mm deep, shallow, 12 point; for exhaust, drive-shaft, and some others
10mm for some bolts
19mm for lug nuts
17mm lower ball joints
going to local scrap yard today to get trailing arms and a few other parts.
Only hiccup so far is finding axles for the d-series in the CR-V. Also, im need to fine a computer that can run the b20 through a OBDIIa harness. I have an OBDIIa to OBDI jumper harness and will be putting V-TEC on the car by winter so if anyone knows a good OBDI computer off the top of their head let me know.
Pictures of the B20 later tonight.
After all is said and done i will be posting a DIY thread for all others who want the challenge
Last night aside from working on a F-250, i was able to remove the harness from the B20, pull the exhaust, disconnect the drive shaft, remove the pass half shaft. The drivers half-shaft is stuck in the hub so.... little more hammering should do the trick.
So far i have not used too many tools to remove basically the front end.
36mm for axle nut
12mm deep, shallow, 12 point; for exhaust, drive-shaft, and some others
10mm for some bolts
19mm for lug nuts
17mm lower ball joints
going to local scrap yard today to get trailing arms and a few other parts.
Only hiccup so far is finding axles for the d-series in the CR-V. Also, im need to fine a computer that can run the b20 through a OBDIIa harness. I have an OBDIIa to OBDI jumper harness and will be putting V-TEC on the car by winter so if anyone knows a good OBDI computer off the top of their head let me know.
Pictures of the B20 later tonight.
After all is said and done i will be posting a DIY thread for all others who want the challenge
Ozwald
New Member
Ok been a while but here is the end of the summer and i am back in Michigan so the project will sit in state.
Motors where direct bolt in, no modifications needed to any of the mounts.
dident get axles in the cars but have worked out what is needed.
CRV:
passenger axle inner knuckle needs to be swapped for the d series knuckle
custom intermediate shaft from drivers d16 axle and intermediate shaft welded together and the OEM CRV driver axle can be used
Civic:
Need intermediate shaft, and the integra axles
need to add knock sensor wire
everything reaches and bolts in.
Distributors:
swap internals and they work (one is a 8 wire and the other is a 9 wire)
crank fluctuation sensor:
one is three wire the other is 2 wire.
the third wire is a shield and can just be grounded.
Motors where direct bolt in, no modifications needed to any of the mounts.
dident get axles in the cars but have worked out what is needed.
CRV:
passenger axle inner knuckle needs to be swapped for the d series knuckle
custom intermediate shaft from drivers d16 axle and intermediate shaft welded together and the OEM CRV driver axle can be used
Civic:
Need intermediate shaft, and the integra axles
need to add knock sensor wire
everything reaches and bolts in.
Distributors:
swap internals and they work (one is a 8 wire and the other is a 9 wire)
crank fluctuation sensor:
one is three wire the other is 2 wire.
the third wire is a shield and can just be grounded.
