13sec rex?

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getting a bit more confused the more i look into things

ok chassis

crx = cable shifter

b18a1 cable shifter w/ no vtec (130hp!)
b18c1 vtec, but past 95 = hydro tranny (170hp, better)

how can i get a vtec b18 into a cable car, just ls/vtec or is there a better way, or should i just pick some b16 series motor, i dont know how many yards are going to like getting the call 'uhh i want b18 longblock w/ xxx tranny and axles' and where can i find out what trannys will mate to what blocks
 
I think all the B series except the CRV will mate to each other so you could get a B18A or B or even a B16A1 tranny.
 
thats kinda what i though, i read that they shared alot in the block, but i figured i should ask to be sure, now i can get a ctr or si tranny to go with the gsr motor...good times will be had by all :)
 
You can get a cable transmission from a JDM B16A and bolt it up to your B series engine of choice... B20 will work too. The main issue you may have is converting an OBD engine to work in your non OBD chassis.
 
hmm, i will have to look into that, also i dont really know what i will need to do about vtec, is the ecu goint to take care of that or what?
 
I'd probably go B20vtec. Since your going NA it's a good choice in both terms of power and cost. With some good tuning you could run 13's, especially in a CRX and even more with weight reduction.

P.S.: Speaking of weight loss FAL should make lexan windows for CRX and 4th Gen. Civic. I really like the idea of lossing weight in the back instead of up front where the drive wheels are. I just can't find street legal ones for my car dammit!
 
Originally posted by timEspeed@Jan 2 2003, 10:32 PM
I'd probably go B20vtec. Since your going NA it's a good choice in both terms of power and cost. With some good tuning you could run 13's, especially in a CRX and even more with weight reduction.

P.S.: Speaking of weight loss FAL should make lexan windows for CRX and 4th Gen. Civic. I really like the idea of lossing weight in the back instead of up front where the drive wheels are. I just can't find street legal ones for my car dammit!

thats too much work, he just wants to get into the 13's. With just a mildly tuned b18c, he can do that with no problem
 
i thought those fal lexan windows were not legal for the crx also. if they are that may be worthwhile
 
Originally posted by onefastcivic@Jan 3 2003, 12:12 PM
just go ls/vtec tune to perfection and run lots of boost haha

LS vtecs are only cost effective if you already have the ls block (aka non gsr integra) A ls vtec is extemly expensive if you just start from scratch, it would be cheaper just to go out and buy a GSR
 
new idea....

after starting to chart out costs for all parts for a few different swaps, the b16sir is looking alot more attractive, it already has a cable tranny, its about 1/3 of the cost of the gsr motor, has vtec, its better than the ZC imo, and is only 10 HP shy of the gsr

cons: i will have less torque, ? what else

i will need new mounts no matter what, so that really isnt a factor, but i think in the long run i may be trading off speed with this, which the more i think about it is ok, i mean i cant see myself dropping that much on a motor swap, when for like 2k more i can get the whole car, so i will most likley go for the cheaper motor

i may not get into the 13s with it, but i will still be quick, quicker than most at least (well, in my area)

opinions?
 
alright still good option. If you are still set on getting into the 13's, your going to have to do a little more work. Aside from your normal bolt ons, look into getting a new intake manifold, valve train, higher compression pistons, and then you will be very close if not in the 13's
 
hmm most of that would be things i would do any way

skunk2 intake manifold, they are light, pretty damn big compaired to stock, and pretty cheap (~250)

i planned on upgrading the valvetrain, im not sure which way to go on that, trying to balance cost Vs: proformance, most likely look into ctr or itr valvesprings/retainers i still need to look at cam pricing and then skunk2 camgears

as far as pistons im not sure, i may end up doing that first, just because i would rather get them in before i get the motor in the car, but i dont know if some ctr or other oem would be best, or some aftermarket brand.

i would most likley do the valve train as a later part just because its alot easier to do, i want to get the hardest stuff done before the motor goes in if i can, also will most likely get a mugen (or other brand) metal headgasket to raise compression
 
Originally posted by hybridcrx@Jan 5 2003, 12:45 AM
Turbo Z6/ZC should get you in the 13s and still be reliable.

Well it kinda sounds like this guy wants to go NA plus the ZC has no parts for it. No one makes them anymore
 
just get a 50-75 nitrous and fugitaboutit. you'll hit high 13's easily.
i'm running a b16 with nitrous in a 90 crx si, stock interior, cai, cams,header,exhaust. all totalled 2500 bucks. then again i got the nitrous from my friend's wrecked civic :spin:. I really don't get the n/a thing, but it's your money. Most of the guys that tune n/a get mad respect cause (I think) they get elbow deep in the motor and have a totally unique heart to their monster. I've got a cold, excuse the rambling. :ph34r:
 
Originally posted by doofnoil@Jan 7 2003, 01:48 AM
just get a 50-75 nitrous and fugitaboutit. you'll hit high 13's easily.

If you would have already read the post, you would have seen that he did not want to run N02

Also alot of people dont take respect in no2 because alot of people (sounds like you too) just took the easy way out and just threw in a big blue bottle. It takes what, 400 for a no2 system and then in about 30k or less mile, your engine will be shot. (lucky to get 30K) hell you could go run no2 for 3 runs then all of a sudden your going geo metro style because your #2 piston just let go and now you have shapnel in your head. It is too easy to fuck up and FnF made it sound like NO2 is the best thing in the world and with that, you can go out and run 10's on a stock engine. (Plus in FnF they shoot there NAAWWS like 4 times in one pass)
 
I don't want to start a flame. What you just said was borderline retarded though. :ufucktard: Boost is boost, same thing would happen if you didn't tune the turbo right. And so what if I "took the easy way out" i.e. extended the life of my engine by not running boost going everywhere, but instead using when i want. and my cost 400 dollars, it cost 250 so nyah :p
 
Originally posted by asmallsol+Jan 7 2003, 01:58 AM-->
@Jan 7 2003, 01:48 AM
just get a 50-75 nitrous and fugitaboutit. you'll hit high 13's easily.

If you would have already read the post, you would have seen that he did not want to run N02

Also alot of people dont take respect in no2 because alot of people (sounds like you too) just took the easy way out and just threw in a big blue bottle. It takes what, 400 for a no2 system and then in about 30k or less mile, your engine will be shot. (lucky to get 30K) hell you could go run no2 for 3 runs then all of a sudden your going geo metro style because your #2 piston just let go and now you have shapnel in your head. It is too easy to fuck up and FnF made it sound like NO2 is the best thing in the world and with that, you can go out and run 10's on a stock engine. (Plus in FnF they shoot there NAAWWS like 4 times in one pass)

y0 bro! n2o not no2 :p

Just go GSR and tune it.. i have seen one with an exhuast, ram air intake, itr pistons and cams run 14.4 in a 96 hatch with everything in it.. a crx is lighter and will prolly dip into the 13's without the mods, just good tuning, but the mods will help.
 
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