MD 1996 usdm honda accord with 1993 jdm h22a prelude engine for trade

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HownDah

Quantum Emperor
Harford County, Maryland

I'd like to trade this partially finished project car for a daily driver Honda from 1987 forward. I'm going back to school and won't have time to finish converting this car, or do another engine swap as I'd prefer to, any time soon. I could use another DD instead of having this sitting in the driveway being neglected when someone could be wrenching on it. I'm thinking this scenerio: you may have an older reliable, decent, but humdrum, run-of-the-mill Honda that is perhaps a second or third car, and you've been thinking of getting rid of it to free up some space for a project car. Or you've got a plain jane Honda that you've been think of modifying but don't have the funds for a swap right now and money for all the other big and little modifications. Well, trade me and you're about 75% there.

Here's my stipulation for the trade: it needs to have recently passed state safety inspection and emissions, which would mean that the unibody, tranny, suspension and engine are decent, that the engine has good compression, that there is no broken glass, and no illegal tint, and the heater/defroster work (sure working A/C would be a plus but who cares). Also, it must be be a manual (please, no automatics), and have a maximum of around 185,000 miles. Be sure to mention how things look under the valve cover and if there are any major issues I should be aware of. As a point of reference, I'm valuing this vehicle at about $2,700 so the car you are offering in trade should be worth somewhere around that much. Of course send pictures, plenty of them, and tell me your location. I don't care what model Honda it is, as long as it has passed state safety and emissions recently (no point getting into another project car). If it's an '87-'90 and it's a Maryland-registered car, it may have Historic Tags on it. That's fine but it still has to be mechanically and structurally sound (please, no out-right beaters or rust buckets).

Here is what needs to be done on this car, to the very best of my knowledge and analytical abilities. I would appreciate the same level of detailed info regarding your car.

This Accord is a '96, and that requires an OBD2 engine to pass MD, PA, or VA emissions. The JDM engine it has in it is OBD1 so it needs to be converted to OBD2 in order for the car to pass emissions in those states (and most if not all others). Basically you can either convert this OBD1 engine to OBD2 by changing the sensors and getting an OBD2 ECU or if you have a collection of engines and car bodies in various states of completion, you can look at this car as a seperate OBD1 JDM engine and an OBD2 rolling chassis. Then you can do something like this: take your OBD1 rolling chassis ('95 or older) and drop the '93 JDM OBD1 engine in it, and then take your OBD2 engine and drop it in this OBD2 chassis. That was my preferred plan before my situation changed. I was keen on making two cars out of one :)

The car is driveable in it's current condition, but I would limit that to just very short neighborhood test drives. I would not drive it for any more than a mile or two until the conversion is completed, the drive shaft has been replaced, and the brakes are thoroughly checked.


THE GOOD::thumbsup:

'96 4-door USDM Honda Accord w/ '93 JDM H22A engine taken out of a Prelude and imported to U.S. via Canada from Japan
147,000 miles on the body, 54,000 on the engine
body looks excellent, no rust and only minor cosmetic flaws: a few small dings, some small dents, various minor scratches
the undercarriage looks great, no rust whatsoever
clean AutoCheck: no accidents, no flood damage, no salvage (see copy)
custom catback 2.5" exhaust to Megan muffler, headers, and CAI
JDM H22A Blacktop came out of a Japanese Domestic Market 4th gen Prelude Si VTEC (see copy of paperwork)
removed valve cover and saw no sludge or gumming, just some light varnish, engine appears well-maintained
compression is excellent: 180 psi in each cylinder
no signs of nitrous oxide having been used on the engine
bottom end rebuilt
-Eagle rods
-Darton sleeves
-type S pistons
-polished and balanced crank
-head gasket replaced w/steel head gasket from Nippon Racing
-type S head (port and polished)
-type S camshafts
-type S valve train
F22B2 transmission
ACT street lite flywheel (F22B2)
ACT clutch (6 puck)
Dropzone racing coilover kit (full kit)
no cutting or welding of suspension
OBD1 conversion with P13 ECU tuned by Jun with custom adapter harness made from Accord and Prelude harnesses
camber kit
turn signals all work
has legal tint job, 35%


THE BAD::eek:

one wheel has "curb rash"
4 tires are all low on tread
windshield needs replacement
CEL is on (needs that OBD1 to OBD2 conversion completed)
left axle prob needs replacement, telltale clicking
hood release cable needs to be replaced
battery hold down is needed
one headlight only low-beam works, other headlight only high-beam works, hence both need replacement
tail lights cracked, need replacement
pry marks in aluminum trim around top of passenger door (attempted break-in)
passenger door lock cosmetic damage (attempted break-in)
may need a knock sensor
needs 02 sensor
driver side door switch and door regulator needed
driver side door panel included but needs to be reinstalled
brakes feel a bit soft, car stops fine, but needs some kind of brake work or brake adjustment


THE UGLY::eek:

OBD1 to OBD2 conversion needs to be completed, which means:

1)current OBD1 engine sensors need to be supplemented by OBD2 sensors (i.e. need to add more sensors)
2)OBD1 ECU needs to be replaced by OBD2 ECU
3)engine harness needs to be replaced, or rewired


THE NOT SO UGLY:;)

My "two cars from one" idea I don't have time to see through to fruition:

-get a '95 or older rolling chassis and a '96 engine or maybe a bit newer ('97,'98, etc. but avoid immobilizer-equipped ones to avoid headaches)
-toss the '96 or newer engine into this car
-toss this JDM engine in a '95 or older rolling chassis

The engine sell one / buy one idea:
-sell the '93 JDM Prelude engine, use to money to cover part or all of the purchase cost of a '96 engine, thus dodging the whole OBD issue

The sit on it for 4 years till it's historic idea: self-explanatory, and my back up plan !! :D

-if you have a great junkyard / auto wreckers nearby, you can find 99% of these parts cheaply, CraigsList and eBay are also a good source
-if you're in the Balto, MD area, I would highly recommend Crazy Ray's "U" PICK IT "U" PULL IT in Baltimore and Edgewood


THE INDIFFERENT::mellow:

-looks like the previous owner began to shave the emblems but only got as far as detaching the LX badge on the trunk
-the back seat and all the floor carpeting could use some spray n vac cleaner, but not bad, as is
-the driver floor mat has a wear hole in the center
-the bumpers have some dings and black marks from other bumpers rubbing against
-front left turn signal light is loose
-wires hanging down inside right wheel well and have been spliced; need a clean resplicing and wheel well guard reinstalled to protect them
-has a jerry-rigged wire to pop open the hood, needs a hood release cable
-the only significant dents it has are on the left rear wheel well and even those are minor
-it has various scratches (hard to see in photos), somebody keyed it while it was in a parking garage
-there is a white spot that won't come off above the right wheel well about one and a half inches in diameter looks like a kid dripped ice cream on it and it dried
-the stereo system works, speakers all work, who cares you'll put your own in anyway
-coilovers may need to be cranked up to pass inspection, depending on how picky your inspector is regarding lowered cars


HAPPY MOTORING:D

That's all I can think of after wracking my brains for a few hours trying to come up with anything and everything you need to know about this car
Of course, don't hesitate to ask questions. You can post questions here or p/m me via this forum.If you need specific photos posted of something, just ask.

I much prefer a local trade, but if you want to buy it the price is $2,700 and I feel that considering the excellent rust-free, damage / accident-free condition of the body and the nice low-mileage JDM Prelude engine in it that this price is fair and thus minimally negotiable. The stock vehicle, with this mileage, and before mods sells for about $3,600 around here. I deducted $900 from that average stock selling price because that's how much it would cost me in total parts (and outside labor for stuff I couldn't do myself) to get this car on the road.

If I do not get any appealing local trade offers, or local cash offers, it's going up on eBay Motors. I will announce that here, if that is the case. That will give an opportunity for all you folks that are far from MD/VA/PA to put a bid on it if you so desire, and have it shipped to you by one of the eBay Motors affiliated shippers. Just a side-note: I have been on eBay for over 9 1/2 years and have 100% positive feedback with never a neg or even a neutral mark or comment on my feedback record.


Many thanks and happy motoring!:D:D:D


P.S. BE SURE TO READ THE PHOTO FILE NAMES CAREFULLY, THEY ARE NOT GENERIC! THEY ARE DESCRIPTIVE AND CONTAIN LOTS OF IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT THE PHOTOS !!
 

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Last edited:

HownDah

Quantum Emperor
You mean you're still running a pentium ii ?

FOR THOSE OF YOU WITH SLOW COMPUTERS OR INTERNET CONNECTIONS, I SET UP A FLICKR PHOTOSTREAM HERE: Flickr: uncle jdm's Photostream

THANKS FOR STOPPING BY AND ENJOY YOUR SUNDAY MOTORING !!:D
 
Last edited:

HownDah

Quantum Emperor
I had a little trouble with Flickr ordering the pictures the wrong way but it's all fixed now. Thanks for looking.:)
 

HownDah

Quantum Emperor
Honda : Accord: eBay Motors (item 220625932989 end time Jun-27-10 13:30:00 PDT)

It's simultaneously listed here for trade and on eBay for sale (see link, above). I'll still consider trade offers up til 5 AM Sunday 6/27/2010, after that point, there will be less than 12 hours left on the auction and by eBay rules, I must sell the item to the highest bidder.

note: it would of course be better to send any trade offers by Saturday night 6/26 because between 12 mid - 5 am I have a tendency to doze off:D


NOW THAT IT'S ON EBAY, IT CAN EASILY BE SHIPPED ANYWHERE IN THE U.S.A., JUST CLICK ON THE SHIPPING QUOTES TAB ON THE AUCTION PAGE I LINKED ABOVE
 

HownDah

Quantum Emperor
THANK YOU HONDA TUNERS (!!!)
FOR THE GREAT INTEREST EXPRESSED IN THIS VEHICLE IN ONLY 24 HOURS OF eBay LISTING TIME !!! *********************************************************************

I APPRECIATE ALL THE EMAILS, AND I KNOW TIMES ARE TOUGH AND IT'S GETTING HARDER AND HARDER TO PURSUE OUR #1 HOBBY - IMPORT TUNING - (NO THANKS TO THE "GREAT RECESSION" :(

AS A GESTURE OF THANKS, I AM DOING THE FOLLOWING, EFFECTIVE **RIGHT NOW** ----->>>>

*** I AM LOWERING THE RESERVE BY $700.00 TO HELP SUBSIDIZE YOUR SHIPPING COSTS !!! ***

THE RESERVE ON THIS JDM HONDA ACCORD IS NOW ONLY $1,300 !!!

YOU GUYS ROCK, AND MAKE ME HAPPY TO BE PART OF SUCH A GREAT TUNER COMMUNITY, KEEP THE EMAILS COMING!!! HANG TOUGH, AND THANKS AGAIN!!!
 

HownDah

Quantum Emperor
***LISTING UPDATE***

Parameters for OBD1 P13 ECU tuned by Jun:
-rev limit raised to 9,600 rpm

-no governor / no speed limiter

-VTEC engagement at approx. 5,200 rpm

-air/ fuel ratio is 13.0-13.6 from 3,500 rpm to 7,700 rpm

-93 octane gasoline should be used but 87 works fine too

-ECU maps out engine performance

-ECU retards or advances timing when needed

Of course, as stated in the listing, in order for the OBD1-equipped engine that's in there now to pass state emissions it must either be converted to OBD2, or the engine must be swapped out. The Jun ECU may be sold and replaced by an OBD2 ECU, or can be used on an OBD1 chassis ('95 or earlier) in case of a swap. Right now a similar OBD1 P13 ECU for H22A engines is being sold on eBay for over 200 bucks. These retail for about 400.

A NOTE ON CONVERSION HARNESSES: SOME OF YOU HAVE EMAILED ME ABOUT USING A SIMPLE CONVERSION HARNESS THAT CONVERTS OBD1 TO OBD2. YES, THAT COULD BE A SIMPLE PLUG AND PLAY SOLUTION: JUST PLUG IN THE CONVERSION HARNESS AND ADD A STOCK OBD2 ECU OUT OF A JUNKED / WRECKED PRELUDE, BUT I DO NOT KNOW ENOUGH ABOUT WHAT'S INVOLVED TO SAY "YUP THAT'S IT". IT MAY OR MAY NOT BE THAT SIMPLE. I WOULD GO WITH ASSUMPTION THAT THE SENSORS HAVE TO BE ADDED, ETC. BUT GIVE THE CONVERSION HARNESS A SHOT AS A POSSIBLE QUICK 'N' EASY FIX, BUT I JUST DON'T KNOW ENOUGH TO SAY EITHER WAY FOR SURE.
 

HownDah

Quantum Emperor
eBay Auction Update

as of 1:12 pm today (friday, june 25th, 2010), this car's ebay auction page has had 973 PAGE VIEWS and there are 11 ACTIVE BIDDERSthat have submitted 44 BIDS.

there are 31 WATCHERS on the auction.

i just wanted to give a **HUGE** THANKS to all you that emailed me with tips,advice, and interest in this car. i really love this car, but i have to go back to school. i hope that whomever buys it will post pictures of it on these forums when he's done. it's gonna be one smoking sleeper
!!!:driver2:
 

eg6sir

Supa Mod
Moderator
VIP
what?? post in normal text.. all this colored/unlined/bold shit is annoying as fuck
 

HownDah

Quantum Emperor
ok,last one,i promise

<now that's the the smallest and least visible i can do it in, that ostensibly blank space actually contains 500 words. i was able to fit into one Planck length (16.163×10−27 nanometers)with the help of some of my pals at Fermilab in Batavia.:rolleyes:

hitlermod, i'm just joking, of course, i get your point. i'll totally chill on the bold big underlined and multicolored sh*t. we still cool, right?:drinks_drunk:
 
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