So the switch that you're supposed to wire to make the ignition think its in park was undone. Fixed a firing order issue, and bada bing. Fired right up. Put the axles in it, secured the wheels, did all the things and stuff and drove it out of the shop at 10:45 at night. Feels so good rn...
Got it mostly put together. Bumper is currently secured with zipties but I will properly mount it and the front lip. Gotta fabricate the dc4 sliders to the racing seats and finish putting the interior together. Hopefully get it liscensed and registered and stuff. 2.25" exhaust system should get here this week as well already got the test pipe.
Car is officially on the road. My friend lent me a Sony camera, comparable to a GoPro I guess. Suction mount adjustable arm water proof the whole nine. Got some cool videos testing it out before track night wednesday I'll link them when they're edited and uploaded. Fought a number of electronic issues to get it working properly and my fan decided to stop working. Again.
So what happened: Sitting a red light near ish my house after getting her up to 80 in 4th gear to see how she feels, after sitting for a little while smoke starts coming inside the cabin which kinda freaks me out so I take her home immediately (car stopped smoking while i was driving) got home and no smoke motor was nice and warm (temp gauges never showed anything particularly "suspect" throughout all this, pretty much stayed where they're supposed to) no signs of coolant bubbling out of the radiator or anything but the fan was off
I know the fan is only supposed to come on when needed so maybe my thermostat isnt working properly? But coolant is flowing through both hoses and going to all the necessary places I'm thinking about doing what I did to the yellow one and crossing the thermostat temp wires so the fan is always on with the ignition.
I haven't had a chance to test them yet but we made sure the relay was good and replaced the fuse for the fan which was blown... im wondering if that fuse is shorting out and blowing repeatedly but time will tell on that one.
Well new more pressing issue. Got a basemap done by someone that was recommended by 5 different people and he seemed like he knew what he was doing.
He said that someone had attempted a VTEC conversion on the ECU and the way I brought it to him it was running a B16 basemap with VTEC disabled. He hooked the chip up to his laptop, loaded the B20 high comp basemap and voila, I was off. It started flooding on the way back which kinda sucks because cold air intake.
Car started idling very high (1.7-2k rpms) and past 4k rpms the acceleration would get really poor and choppy I'm thinking it's timing I also wonder if there could have been some hydrolock going on there but I'm leaning towards timing.
EDIT Advanced the timing as far as I could on the distributor and it started to smooth out the idle down to 1.1k steady so i took it for a drive and revved it out twice and it did so normally with no hesitation or cutoff but roads are wet so I was having traction issues. More testing to come tomorrow.
Someone suggested checking the fuel system so i might put a new filter in it tomorrow along with half a can of fuel system cleaner... last time the yellow teg had idle the Sea foam cleaner took care of it
I have another theory idk the plausibility of it..
Im using my ls distributor from my 96 LS that was paired with the ecu that was running the b16 basemap i'm wondering if the timing of that dizzy on the inside was tweaked to fit the b16 basemap which is why the timing acts like its off with a b20z basemap, thoughts?
There's not really anything on the inside to adjust. Like I said, check all of your timing marks to make sure they are all set correctly and the belt didn't jump a tooth then use a timing light to set your electrical timing. If you line up your timing marks and they're off then either the belt wasn't put on right or there's not enough tension in the belt.
Ignition timing was off and it needed a basic tuneup so I set the valve lash, put new Iridium plugs in it and went to oem spark plug wires from the aftermarkets. Runs amazing, ran a 10.1 out of 4 pull because something went wrong with my exhaust i suspect my ebay test pipe may have bit the dust. Took some shots with that camera and my friend rode along to take some really high quality photos on the way there
The bushing was shot and I tried using a bolt where the pin should be so it was pretty floppy I fixed it before I took it to the track I switched the bushing around and rigged the washers to hold it stiff and got a factory pin for 2$ and it tightened right up
Guys I need sort of urgent help the integra nuked two drivers side axles in one day and it seems that the drivers side axle is coming up about one inch short and the subsequent stretch might be pulling the axle out of the housing (where the part with the fingers goes into the hub that plugs into the transfer shaft) when it encounters turbulence.
Are there any axles that would fit and possibly be a little longer to fit?
You shouldn't have axle length issues with the B20 block. The trans mounts in the same exact spot it does with the B18B. You can tell because the mounts to chassis and subframe are mounted correctly. I'm guessing you have aftermarket axles. I know guys have plenty of success with them but if you can score some used OEM axles....I'd try them.
I must ask...Are you banging on it pretty hard? Dropping gears hard? I've broke motor mount bolts so I know having too much fun has its consequences.
Both times it happened I was beating on it pretty good. First time I was making a left turn onto a 4 lane highway and accelerating through it in 2nd gear and the 2nd time I was pulling in 1st gear and hit a small bump in the road... but at the same time this really shouldnt be an issue unless there's another underlying problem.
But I also found a buyer so i might just replace the axle and send him on his merry way.