1998 Integra RS Build (B20z2)

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Village Idiot
So I grabbed the shell for $400 Monday night. Basically has everything, just needs a motor and tranny.

I'm using my LS 5 speed trans that I'm replacing out of my yellow integra (shifts like butter, nothing wrong with it I just want my GSR) and a very clean looking B20z2 out of a 1999 CRV wrecked pretty badly.

I'm gonna use all the N/A stuff I have for my yellow integra (I figure headers intake etc aren't gonna do me any good when it's boosted) on this one and just have fun with it. I'm gonna put a LS intake manifold on because I have an extra. I've researched the B20z2 swap and I've seen some varying opinions so I wanted to get some advice from the trusty HS community.

Mostly on the wiring. I'm going Hondata for my yellow integra so this leaves me a spare chipped manual OBD1 ECU with a two-step that runs my B18b1 decently enough.

Can I use the harness out of the 1998 RS with the ecu and jumper harness from my other car with no problems? What modifications to the harness have to be made to run the B20z2? Can I use the compressor and alternator from the CRV with no issues? ECU is running what I assume is a LS two step tune with a launch control set for 4000rpms and no rev limiter.

In the interest of being cost effective I'm going to need a flywheel and clutch kit and I was thinking of going Exedy OEM grade replacement to $ave Dat Money, thoughts? Clutch kit on amazon prime is like 120$ and the flywheel is like $40-60.

Obviously the N/A upside on any non vtec b series motor is rather limited and I am going to end up putting money into this one but I'm excited nonetheless. I've always wanted a project car that I could just beat on and rice out and this will keep me happy until the B18b1 is fully built for boost with all the parts that I want.

Entry cost is 400$ the hope is to build this whole thing for under $1000.

Step 1 happens Thursday night. I drop the motor and tranny out of the yellow integra. Seperate motor and transmission, get the motor on a stand somewhere safe and wrapped up get the shell stored away somewhere covered up nice and neat.

I will be taking from the yellow integra...
Jumper Harness (unless a cheaper one like (http://www.amazon.com/Conversion-Ha...ll_btm?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=recent will do me solid for my purposes)
LS transmission

Step 2 happens hopefully this weekend or as early as Friday night depending on how Thursday night's endeavors go. I'm going to pull the B20z2 out of the 1999 CRV, separate motor and transmission, Inspect for leaks, and then get to installing flywheel and clutch kit.

Step 3 will either go down this weekend or the next. Mate transmission and motor, and get it in the RS shell. *hopefully* bolt everything in, wire it all up, and get going.


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Fun build. Not sure about the harness, but I'm sure someone on here does.

You just trying to flip the car or have something to romp around in?
I've wanted a car that I could beat on and just romp around in and this will keep my needs satisfied while my yellow teg is off the road. Then I figure I can sell it later and either get my money back or turn a small profit.
In true "me" fashion I'm having second thoughts and thinking I may have overlooked something important. I might be better off dropping the B20z2 into the yellow Integra and continuing to drive it while I build the B18b1.

And I can make money off parting the integra of course

BUT. At the same time this would free me up to do all the work on the chassis that I want to, finish the rear suspension, paint, body, clean up the bay, etc
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I think you are being pulled in too many different directions. lol

do you want to make money or focus on building a good car. trying to build 2 or 3 or 4 cars, making money flipping parts, and having a job is nearly impossible.
In one night I got the motor out of the yellow integra which is nice. going in an hour early tomorrow to clean up my mess and then tomorrow night (friday) we pull the B20z2 and get the LS tranny seperated from the long block. Found a "performance" clutch kit on Rockauto for marginally more than the exedy oem replacement and this one is advertised to hold an extra 25-40% extra torque over stock. Depending on time spent waiting for parts I could have the RS on the road in a week or so. Also got someone who might buy the front end conversion off my 2000 Civic which would inadvertently finance my GSR tranny.

I also was wondering on the subject of clutch kits, I have an Exedy stage 1 clutch and a 9.3lb flywheel in the yellow teg, with my goal horsepower being in the 400 neighborhood am I gonna need a higher rated kit or nah? If so I'll just use the stage 1 in the RS

Also crushed my thumb between the motor and the frame rail which felt good. 10/10 would yell like a caveman again.
b20z2 is almost ready to come out... got so tired tonight that I just gave up i wanna be mentally sharp for when I have to do the hard stuff. We'll see how much we get done this weekend.
b20z2 is out, my motor and tranny are seperated. Gotta pull my clutch kit and seperate the B20z2 longblock and get to building.
the advance auto location we deal with through the shop had a ITR flywheel in stock for 60$ and they're delivering it to the shop so that's pretty sweet. with the shop discount.
Holy crap am I tired lol. Picked up the title to the 98 RS today. At the end of the day my B18b1 is on a stand out of the way where I'll have easy access to work on it.
The B20z2 is seperated from the automatic transmission and I have a seal kit to replace all the stuff around the rear main seal. Tomorrow I'll assemble it with the Stage 1 kit out, ITR flywheel, and LS tranny and have the whole block ready to go in the RS hopefully next weekend. WFI is planning on a test & tune night 3 Wednesdays from now because TSX guy is getting his transmission rebuilt, RSX guy is getting a LSD clutch kit and stuff and obviously I'm building another car so that's my tentative deadline, but the last project taught me deadlines have to be negotiable.

Stalk me on snapchat at "Lmiller_time" to see this stuff happen somewhat live.


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Swap assembled besides the boltons... time to drop it in the shell next weekend. My one concern the harness out of the 98 RS does -not- fit the dizzy of the 99 b20z2, do I need an integra distributor?
EDIT after further research it appears 98 was obd2a and 99 was obd2b, and the dizzy plugs are in fact different. My harness is obd2a so I need a obd2a distributor I take it? Probably gonna use the one off my LS for now.


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So the engine setup in full to go in this weekend:
Stock B20z2 Long block
LS 5 speed
Integra LS Intake Manifold
Integra aftermarket 4-2-1 headers
Cold air intake with Spectre mushroom filter, pulls air from below the passenger framerail behind the bumper
Gotta measure the exhaust when I get it on the lift I'm assuming 2.5", not sure about cats and stuff.

I have seen dyno sheets of these motors in the 150+whp 165+wtq range with similar setups which would be pretty fun I think, and I will be getting this one dyno'd just because I've never done that before and a friend of mine says he knows a good place. Pictures of this weekend's activity to come.
Motor in in the bay but not mounted yet, gonna have to switch up my tactics, I lowered the car on top of the motor but can't quite get the transmission side mount to line up like I want it by hoisting the engine up into the bay

Car | Engine Hoist
Motor -^
Roller plate

The general idea was to bring the motor up off the plate and into the mounts to line it up as I go but it's proving to be difficult for one person so I'm probably going to drop the motor onto the pallet, but on blocks so it has the appropriate height and then use a big pry bar to try and wiggle it into place where the bolt will go through the mount. I have a funeral to attend tomorrow at 1 but I'll be back at it again afterwards.

Also it has a Greddy muffler and oem piping that was rusted through and broken off so now I gotta get an exhaust system, I was wondering what the "ideal" size for N/A nonvtec motors is. Also being florida I have no intentions of reinstalling a Cat.
So the reason the transmission mount to the frame was fighting me was because it was welded on poorly. I mean the weld looks solid but its not near the 90 degree angle it's supposed to be. So I might try and beat it into place because as of right now the engine is sitting cocked towards the drivers side. Intake manifold is on and the harness is patched up and installed I just gotta finish running all the vacuum and coolant lines and a few loose wires and she'll be ready to go.

And isn't 2.25" the stock size? Seems small but idk


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I shimmed the transmission mount to the transmission with some large nuts and it the engine sits level now. Everything is hooked up except for two 3 prong plugs transmission side but I couldn't find a home for them. After some research it appears the car was an auto to manual swap, which may be why the transmission side mount was messed up, who knows. But it does have an automatic instrument cluster and the clutch pedal has no sensors running to it nor is there any wiring off the harness for it. The car has a security system installed of some sort, I found the clicker in the glovebox and there's a unit wired in on the underside of the steering column.

So my newest problem is the ignition is making the car start although the starter lead and ground are both live, so I bypassed these following my brothers suggestion and jumped it via power probe to the ground on the starter.

Now the motor cranks but won't fire off, I checked the firing order, timing hasn't been changed since it was dropped out as a running driving swap. I had to solder injectors into the harness because they were cut off the previous ones, so I pulled each of them to check and on each one the colored wire registers as a ground and the black and yellow as a live wire EXCEPT for injector 2/4 (2nd from the left side facing the motor from the from, 1-2-3-4) where the black and yellow registers as a ground and the colored wire is the lead. But we matched these up to the harness very carefully so I'm confused. Even looking at it it looks like all the wires are matched up like they're supposed to be. I used injectors from the 99 CRV harness and soldered them into the 98 integra harness, did I miss something? They're running to an integra intake manifold and fuel rail from a 97GS so its all obd2

I'm just really confused, it looks like a fuel issue but I'm not sure.

EDIT firing order was wrong so i fixed that, now it backfires while it cranks.

EDIT: Now it's not backfiring it just won't crank
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So I decided to address the ignition issue first and I found the alarm (Omega Mundial4? looks like a walmart type deal), unplugged it at both point (head unit and the thing under the steering wheel) and it still won't start. When it was hooked up I used the bypass switch and it still didn't turn so im thinking it has to do with the clutch switch since the car was a auto to manual swap and I found some loose wires in the dash (yay right?) I'll take pics of what I can see and go from there...

Edit: wired it back up correctly this time and it still won't start.. I have an extra complete harness from a 97 GS automatic as far as the stuff behind the dash and I'm really wondering if I should pull the wiring from it and put it into the red integra and more or less start over rather than try and patch any damage that may have been done by the kid previously. Just really frustrated rn I was not expecting this to be as much of an issue as it is.
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