77 Civic Swap - CVCC to D16A1

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If I can use my buddies flat bed to haul off the acura tomorrow, I might just push the honda in and start on it. Providing I can even get it loaded by myself lol
If I can use my buddies flat bed to haul off the acura tomorrow, I might just push the honda in and start on it. Providing I can even get it loaded by myself lol
I loaded a 3rd gen Integra (1996) with no motor onto and off of a trailer by myself a few weeks ago. 1st gen should be even lighter. Just have some common sense and you should be fine.
I actually went with the suggestion TurboMirage gave me. Left the rear tires on, hoisted the front end with the cherry picker and used ratchet straps as a winch and pulled it right up the ramps onto the trailer. Took all of 30 mins and I was off to the scrap yard.
Now just gotta clean up the shop floor.
Gunna do a brake job on my f250 when the pads get here then get the civic in and start shoehorning the motor in!
Im pumped and cant wait to get this thing going.
Did a quick degrease on the 1/2" of oil caked dirt.

Test fit to assess what all needed trimmed.

Cut away mounts, frame rails and anything else in the way.

Retest fit the motor to find I trimmed more than enough on my first shot.

Started motor mounts on the 4th and got them all tacked in place supporting the motor today. One on the firewall, one on the trasmission and two on the driverside of the motor.
ahhhhh tbh the whole swap is high in the bay, alot of people make a mount that drops down for the CG Trans - if you want to get a better idea of where the engine sits in the bay put axles in the trans and look at the angle on them , interested to see what you will come up with for the drivers side mount :) id do a basic dogbone mount for the front to the crossmember
Thanks, I am pleased with my little welders capabilities especially since I only pick up the gun once or twice a year.
Now im beating myself up cuz I meant to check height before tacking the mounts in but got too gung-ho and may have over estimated how much the suspension will compress when back on the ground with motor weight.
Ill slide an axle in tonight and put weight on the suspension and see where it sets.
How close does it truely need to be? Can it be off by an inch or two?
BTW, thanks for the input/advise
Well thats disappointing... Cant believe I didnt pay more attention the the height of the motor...
Im only roughly 3" too high.
Guess ill be starting over. Better to catch it early on tho. Thanks for pointing it out dilbeckskate.
No problem man I was hoping I didnt come off sounding like a dick but I would rather that than you fab the engine in and it is wayy too high and axles at a crazy angle etc, the intake manifold should sit ABOUT FLUSH with that lip a few inches below the hood latch , sometimes requires trimming and some people get away without it
Last night got all the mounts out and lowered the motor. I double check the height this time and it looks alot better!

Gunna see how far I get on redoing the mounts today
Was just looking at the pedal assembly.
Looks like its gunna be fun...
Thinking ill have to hack up the acura pedal assembly and replace the civics throttle pedal and modify the brake pedal to get the clutch pedal to fit. all while working around the steering joints that are directly in the way.
If anyone has any suggestions, Im all ears since ive never tackled a project like this.
lol I forgot about the pedal assembly, IIRC can make alot of the OE stuff work, the clutch cable is reusable and throttle cable IIRC
Right again.
Hacked up the acuras clutch and brake pedal assembly and got it installed.

Also shortened linkages.
I couldnt believe that the cvcc exhaust hanger bracket is the same design as the stick linkage. Made the job pretty easy.

I think next is wiring or radiator.
Im not sure if either factory radiator will work. Any info would be apreciated.
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Well, its been a while since ive done anything with the swap but me and my cousin knocked out a good chunk yesterday. Got the unibody modified, reinforced and painted. Mounted the motor (hopefully for the last time till it gets rebuilt lol), got heater core hoses connected, speedo, throttle and clutch cables hooked up. Installed the brake booster and master and started on finishing the front crossmember.
Still have a ways to go but im pushing to get back on track.
Dang man, your build is intense. So awesome.
Im jealous!

Last night, got the exhaust mostly finished. Took the entire integra exhaust and removed the cat. The integra exhaust nearly fit the cvcc perfectly from the down pipe back to the rear suspension. Just had to add about 4.5" of pipe.
Tonight I started in on the vacuum system but ran into a few issues. I had a nipple break off on the vacuum advance diaphragm. And I cant recall where a line on the charcoal canister goes and where the bottom line on the pressure regulator goes.
If any one knows, id ippreciate some guidance.
since you are doing fuel injection I would go the same route as I did and I would get a td43u distributor and a bseries exhaust cam plug to delete the exhaust cam sensor and reuse your tps and firewall map sensor and convert the motor to obd1, I got my harness and ecu through Jason Waters Tuning, makes the swap wiring effortless you just put 12v and ground to it and it gives you 5 fuses and relays for your fuel pump and fans etc and whatever you want to turn on with a relay for 12v switched. that way you arent stuck with the shotty vac advance and dont have to worry about the mess of wiring and you can actually tune the motor and any local honda tuner can plug right in and go and you can go, also if you have any swap questions feel free to ask and the harness stuff is covered in the d16 swap video stuff if curious