93 EG Poormans Type R?

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I've always wanted a swapped Honda but never got to do it when I was younger. Now I finally have it and for the most part its been a (fast) POS.

Not really familiar with swaps.

I got the car thinking it was an EG with a GSR in it. Ran great! Did a compression check ect. found I had a bad cylinder so I tore it apart, only to find the pistons cracked/chipped away. (still had decent compression). Had a b18A1 block lying around for years with a cheap Ebay rebuild kit in it (cylinders honed but not bored had a slight taper if i remember right. So I did the LS/Vtec thing. (Again Fast, Smoked A Little Bit But Ran Great) A friend drove it for not even 5k & the number 3 cylinder lost all compression & clouds of smoke out the tail pipe.

Pulled the head off again to & found the piston had melted/burned a hole in the side. (all kinds of f'd up) The bore was toast. Had a choice to rebuild the c1 or the a1 both with stock bore & needed to be bored.

I figured the c1 was the better choice. right now its tore down ready for prep to send to machine shop. Had some free time and wanted to see what i have exactly since I feel like I'm having a tuning/fueling issue.

99 B16 (PR3-3) Head (AEM Cam Gear, have not verified Camshafts)
B16 Manifold (Assuming a 99 from the same car)
1997 B18c1 Block (assuming I found an accurate forum telling me what the "4305258" under the b18c1 stamp means.)
OBD1 P28 ECU (I'm assuming its chipped? I don't know how it works still researching)
((The wiring by the ECU also looks ghetto as hell the only thing I notice coming out of the fire wall into the engine bay is 2 wires to the Vtec, Vtec is working BTW.))
TD-68U OBD1 B16/GSR/ITR VTec 92-95 Distributor

Note: Not concerned about tranny at the moment beings I can't even keep a motor in it.

Causes of my cracked c1 & burned a1 pistons I guess is what I am looking for?
As well as suggestions on tuning.

Detonation of some sort maybe? Injectors? Mutiple pistons were cracked in the c1 when i got it. & the a1 burned number 3 in under 5k.

If the ECU is chipped would I be able to tell? As well as hondata or crome, should i be able to tell if it has these?

I know these things get asked alot and believe me I'm scouring the internet through the I guess its been dang near 20years people have been doing these kinds of swaps. Hope some people still play with these ancient ruins.

Feel free to asks questions as I'm here to learn.

Hope theres someone still out there doing this.


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It looks like your ECU is chipped. There is a chip in the lower right hand corner that looks like it says "ssr" or "sst" that's the chip. More than likely it was tuned for your original engine and wasn't good for the b18a1 that you put in resulting in your pistons getting fried. I use a hondata s300 to tune my ecu. It would be easy to install since you already have a socketed ecu. Just take that chip I mentioned and pull it out then plug in the s300.


I guess I should mention that the chip you have is one that needs to be removed from the ecu and programmed then put back in. It's an option for tuning but I like the s300 because you just have to cut a small hole in the side of the ecu case for a usb cable and the software let's you tune and monitor your engine in real-time.
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This is good news, I am going to rebuild the original build. So assuming the chip is properly programed it should be fine until I break down and buy the s300?

The broken pistons maybe a bad batch? Or maybe cheap? The valves don't appear to have damage.

Also looking into this kit. I know its cheap. Not exactly trying to build a race motor, stock build should be plenty of power for me. It's a toy I haven't decided to poor tons of money into.


Although your ECU is chipped, there's no guarantee that it was done properly and even if it was you would have to put the exact same components in the engine and still have to tune it again anyways. The fact that you are looking at 20 over pistons and wanting to bore the block changes the internal structure of the engine and therfore the tune. The only way you could get away with not tuning the engine is if you rebuilt the b18c1 stock with a b18c1 head and got a sock ecu for a b18c1. It looks to me like you're either going to get the motor tuned after you get it rebuilt or are buying a head and ecu. You could buy the b18c1 head and have the chip flashed with a stock b18c1 map.
You can just rebuild the bottom end stock and program the hondata with a base map for your engine combination. You could also build it with stronger parts, it's up to your goals. The software is pretty easy to work with and you can actually download it for free from their site to see how you like it. In the software there's a section that let's you download base maps that people have uploaded that will have a good enough tune to get you to a shop and have it professionally tuned. I would say you can tune it yourself but you risk damaging your engine if you don't know what you're doing. And street tuning does not cut it, to properly have it tuned you need it on a dyno.

It sounds like you're petty new to this whole thing so if I were you and I was paranoid about making this last, I'd build the engine or have it built and make a list of everything. What crankshaft, rods, poisons, the block bore, have the machine shop measure the deck height, what type of head and camshafts. Then I'd have the car on the trailer taken to a shop to get tuned with your list of parts so they can put a base map together for your first startup.

That being said if you want to give it a go yourself be prepared to rebuild the engine a second time.
Sounds like a plan. Going to continue the rebuild then purchase the s300 and get it tuned.

Did you get a chance to take a peek at that rebuild kit on amazon?


I know it's a cheap kit claiming to be like stock. Just wonder how kits like this hold up (the pistons are what I'm concerned about).
I've bought gracket, ring & bearing kits similar for d series motors and they've held up alright for stock applications.

Again thanks for the good info!
i'd steer clear of that. the gaskets are probably ok but i'd never put those rods or pistons in anything i was building. i mean, NO reviews dude... run lol

you probably don't need 80% of what's in there in the first place.
Roger that. I pretty much only need a gasket set, pistons, rings & bearings.

Pistons are my main concern any opinions? Again only aiming for stockish unless the price is right. Looked into Nipponracing a little seemed like another decent option.
honda used to make an oem overbore in 81.25 mm. not sure if they are still readily available or not these days.