93 hatch ISSUES!!!

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PlsPassTheRyce

New Member
ok so for starters.....im fairly new to the honda world. I was raised on domestics......spent a few years in a WRX and now i have officially purchased my first honda. i guess this is a Im new to the forum and need some damn help thread. anyhow so i bought a 93 civic hatch. havent even got the title yet so im not sure if its an SI or not. im pretty knowlegable with motors and have swapped a b18c1 into a 93 coupe before. anyhow i bought this hatch and it has a d16z6 swapped in......i assume due to the vtec solenoid being "custom" wired. i paid 700 bucks for the car so i was expecting to put in some blood and sweat. my story/cliff notes follow

1. (day of purchase)- test drove the car and the previous owner replaced the dizzy and when i drove it is was farting and banging spudder and studdering. get it home and the plug wires were all kinds of backwards.
2. Fixed the above issue and alls well. car has power and runs great
3. Car idles at about 2.5k until warm and then once warm jumps from 1k-2.5k
4. SRS light is on and horn does not work
5. Im sure timing is off as dizzy is turned all the way to the left.
6. Car has an obd1 p28 ecu. will this work ok with a d16z6?
7. Do I have to remove the timing chain lower cover to time the car????
8. Can anyone give me some assistance to help solve the above problems.
9. Im in Arlington, TX so anyone who is local and would like to exchange some advice for Bud Light.....pm me.....im all in.

All in all i know i got a hell of a deal but this is going to be a daily driver/project. any help would be much appreciated,
 
for the surging idle i'd check for any vaccum leaks and/or clean your iacv and fitv. also consider replacing the $4 seal between it and the intake manifold.

how to clean an iacv
***How-To Clean*** Your IACV a.k.a. Idle Air Control Valve - Honda-Tech

how to clean a fitv
*** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve - Honda-Tech

Yes a p28 is the correct ecu for the d16z6. You don't need to remove the lower cover to time the car. just use the timing marks on the crank in reference to the marks on the cover to set it to TDC. If all else fails, take out the #1 spark plug, drop a long rod down the hole till it rests on top the piston, and then turn the crank till you feel that floating spot at TDC. Once the crank is at tdc check to see where the cam gear is. if its not matching up with its tdc marks on the head then loosen the tensioner pulley and pull the belt off. turn the cam gear till its on tdc and then reinstall the belt, and tighten the tensioner. after that move your distributor back to the center. it shouldn't be turned to the left or to the right at all. assuming there isn't some other electrical issue then it should run pretty well at this point.
 
ok so here is an update and some pics of what ive found so far.

1. i removed the throttle body and its was heavily gunked up. i soaked it in throttle body cleaner and polished it up the best i could. neither vato-zone nor oreillys had a damn gasket in stock so i have one on order and should get that tomorrow.
IMG_1894.jpg


2. the IACV was pretty dirty as well so i did the same.
IMG_1895.jpg


3. the FITV was in pretty bad shape as well. the little nipple at the end that what looks like a coolant line goes onto was completely clogged and the hose looked like it had a marble in it from the backed up blockage. does anyone know what that hose is called as it looks like i might have to replace it as well. I hope the FITV still works well. i couldnt get the phillips screws out of that cap to clean the inside area by the nipple but it looks like a small flat head screwdriver, lots of wd-40, carb cleaner and compressed air may have done the trick. There is a little pin that acts like a plunger in the base of the FITV. its grooved on one side. my compressed air blew it out. i can tell which end goes back in first. im assume the grooved in sticks out. if anyone knows please chime in
IMG_1891.jpg

IMG_1892.jpg

IMG_1893.jpg

Thanks to everyone who gave me some pointers and after i get the gaskets and get everything installed ill update. as far as the SRS light and Horn.....anyone have any pointers as to were to start on that issue??
 
i'm not sure exactly what piece you're referring to that blew out, but that fitv cleaning writeup goes into a lot of detail to show disassembly and putting it back together so maybe that will help.

the screws to the cap for the fitv you can easily remove if you get a small pair of vice grips and grab hold of the screws. they will come right out.
 
If your idle surging doesn't stop after you have done all of the above it could mean that your TPS is gone. That has happened to me many times. Even though it is "built in" by those damn screws to the throttle body, you are able to drill it out CAREFULLY and replace it, then screw it back in....if that ends up being the case.

Have you checked for any codes? Best of luck. :thumbsup:
 
havent had any CEL's thrown but then again im used to 0bd2 cars. surely the CEL would represent thrown codes corrrect?? if so then im not throwing any....suprisingly
 
Correct. The surging, from my own previous experience, leads me to believe that it could also be your TPS. Then again, that is MY opinion after all. It could be something else as well. Best of luck. :thumbsup:
 
i'm not sure exactly what piece you're referring to that blew out, but that fitv cleaning writeup goes into a lot of detail to show disassembly and putting it back together so maybe that will help.


if you look at the 2nd picture under topic 3 you can see that nipple that is clogged with blue crap. the hose that went on that nipple swelled up and looks like it may have burst. it looks like a fitted hose so i was curious what exactly it was called so i can pick one of those up as well.
 
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if you look at the 2nd picture under topic 3 you can see that nipple that is clogged with blue crap. the hose that went on that nipple swelled up and looks like it may have burst. it looks like a fitted hose so i was curious what exactly it was called so i can pick one of those up as well.

Just take the muffed up hose to advance/oreilly/wherever and have them cut you a foot of new hose with the same inner diameter.
 
ok so lets say i removed the FITV.... where do i route the coolant line and is this going to throw a CEL.

I put everything back on today and the car started up and the idle was a lot better. i still have to adjust the screw on the throttle body but i can tell it helped a lot.

i did however get a CEL as soon as i started the car. there is a leak in the FITV coolant line hose but i dont see that being the issue.

i guess i would need an OBD1 scanner to read the code huh....?
 
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