Well had 4 engine codes that would not freaking go away...
Hint: to everyone out there, if you have a code for IAC, Electronic load detector, O2 sensor, and a Vtec pressure solenoid then you have the automatic ECU and not the manual ECU you need... Codes (14, 20, 22, 41)
Swap Details
- ODB1 B18C1 into a Honda civic CX hatch 1996
- This is the first time I have ever done anything in the civics engine bay… the most I have ever done before to a car is a water pump on my Taurus.. I like to think of my self as a handy man though. (I would do this again in a heart beat)
My Swap...
- B18C Engine arrives in driveway along with axels, shift linkage, ECU, Harness converter and mounts all from the same distributor
- Remove the old engine from my CX and break 2 bolts in the process.....
- Check the B18C and the pulley on the crank is cracked (Buy a light weight one $100ish)
- Go to put on the lightweight pulley and break the bolt inside the crank (Screw extractors are my new best friend)
- Remove the AC and power steering junk
- Replace the timing belt $200 (took 2 days to order)
- Try and put the engine in, Rear mount sent was wrong. (Scratch the shit out of the engine bay)
- Order new mount from Honda (told them SIR rear mount) (took 2 days to order)
- Mount arrives, drive home, its from a CRX and does not fit (took 2 days to order again)
- Side stud on engine doesn't meet up to mount.... buy SIR stud. (Took 2 days to order $80)
- Finally get engine in, (took about 2 weeks in total)
- Put in shift linkage... it’s the wrong length
- Distributor tells me I have to cut it.... I wont after spending $150 on it
- Made a hybrid from the old one and the 7-inch chunk that came on the engine. Put it on car and it doesn’t quite work right.
- Find a really nice one that will fit in Edmonton AB, off an EK9
- Edmonton said they would get one in stock tomorrow (they said this every day for 2 weeks)
- Got pissed off and bought an SI one from Honda $200 + bushings ($15)
- Bought short though shifter ($120)
- Try to put in Axels, one has striped threads, the other has a ripped boot.
- I used them as cores to buy new ones ($300)
- Try to hook up gas pedal... damn cable wont work, order Acura cable (took 2 days cost about $80)
- Hook up again, Still wont fit right, so I bolt it on higher and bend it a bit.. works now.
- Wire ODB2 harness to ODB1 (found a great document for this)(Don’t follow my lead, do this when the engine is out.)
- Go to plug it into the ECU and once again they sold me the wrong one (took 2 days to sort that out)
- Takes about 3 tries to find the perfect size belt for the new pulley and buy the right rad hoses etc.
- Fill with fluids and start.... runs like shit... ($50ish for fluids)
- Look at ECU and it says GSR on it in pen but the sticker for -P72- is gone...
- Return that too to the vender, get new one. (it was for a civic SI)
- Plug new one in, 4 engine codes. (Above).
- Use that ECU to drive to get exhaust installed $900
- Replace Vtec solenoid, replace IAC, Replace O2 heat sensor same codes ($200 for parts)
- Take car to shop
- They have it for 2 and a half months and fixed nothing. + broke my hood release
- Fix hood release $20
- Went and took my car back, brought it to a new guy out his garage ( I call him HERO )
- He looked at it for a hour and says "do you know you have a manual transmission ECU" paid him ($300 we previously agreed on this flat rate)
- Take ECU back to dealer, he has no ECU's (says it will be a month then he gets one)
- Bought another ECU online in the meanwhile ($240)
- Hooked up new ECU (ALL CEL’s go off)
- Off to the races
CAR RUNS LIKE A FREAKEN CHARM and the only part that I originally got that was the right part was the engine and tranny. The main reason this took so long is because I only really have weekends free, and every part was the wrong part.
My engine distributor got frustrated with me bringing back parts… it was all… all his fault, MAKE SURE YOU BUY FROM SOMEONE THAT KNOWS WTF THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT. He was an excellent source for misinformation.
Hint: to everyone out there, if you have a code for IAC, Electronic load detector, O2 sensor, and a Vtec pressure solenoid then you have the automatic ECU and not the manual ECU you need... Codes (14, 20, 22, 41)
Swap Details
- ODB1 B18C1 into a Honda civic CX hatch 1996
- This is the first time I have ever done anything in the civics engine bay… the most I have ever done before to a car is a water pump on my Taurus.. I like to think of my self as a handy man though. (I would do this again in a heart beat)
My Swap...
- B18C Engine arrives in driveway along with axels, shift linkage, ECU, Harness converter and mounts all from the same distributor
- Remove the old engine from my CX and break 2 bolts in the process.....
- Check the B18C and the pulley on the crank is cracked (Buy a light weight one $100ish)
- Go to put on the lightweight pulley and break the bolt inside the crank (Screw extractors are my new best friend)
- Remove the AC and power steering junk
- Replace the timing belt $200 (took 2 days to order)
- Try and put the engine in, Rear mount sent was wrong. (Scratch the shit out of the engine bay)
- Order new mount from Honda (told them SIR rear mount) (took 2 days to order)
- Mount arrives, drive home, its from a CRX and does not fit (took 2 days to order again)
- Side stud on engine doesn't meet up to mount.... buy SIR stud. (Took 2 days to order $80)
- Finally get engine in, (took about 2 weeks in total)
- Put in shift linkage... it’s the wrong length
- Distributor tells me I have to cut it.... I wont after spending $150 on it
- Made a hybrid from the old one and the 7-inch chunk that came on the engine. Put it on car and it doesn’t quite work right.
- Find a really nice one that will fit in Edmonton AB, off an EK9
- Edmonton said they would get one in stock tomorrow (they said this every day for 2 weeks)
- Got pissed off and bought an SI one from Honda $200 + bushings ($15)
- Bought short though shifter ($120)
- Try to put in Axels, one has striped threads, the other has a ripped boot.
- I used them as cores to buy new ones ($300)
- Try to hook up gas pedal... damn cable wont work, order Acura cable (took 2 days cost about $80)
- Hook up again, Still wont fit right, so I bolt it on higher and bend it a bit.. works now.
- Wire ODB2 harness to ODB1 (found a great document for this)(Don’t follow my lead, do this when the engine is out.)
- Go to plug it into the ECU and once again they sold me the wrong one (took 2 days to sort that out)
- Takes about 3 tries to find the perfect size belt for the new pulley and buy the right rad hoses etc.
- Fill with fluids and start.... runs like shit... ($50ish for fluids)
- Look at ECU and it says GSR on it in pen but the sticker for -P72- is gone...
- Return that too to the vender, get new one. (it was for a civic SI)
- Plug new one in, 4 engine codes. (Above).
- Use that ECU to drive to get exhaust installed $900
- Replace Vtec solenoid, replace IAC, Replace O2 heat sensor same codes ($200 for parts)
- Take car to shop
- They have it for 2 and a half months and fixed nothing. + broke my hood release
- Fix hood release $20
- Went and took my car back, brought it to a new guy out his garage ( I call him HERO )
- He looked at it for a hour and says "do you know you have a manual transmission ECU" paid him ($300 we previously agreed on this flat rate)
- Take ECU back to dealer, he has no ECU's (says it will be a month then he gets one)
- Bought another ECU online in the meanwhile ($240)
- Hooked up new ECU (ALL CEL’s go off)
- Off to the races
CAR RUNS LIKE A FREAKEN CHARM and the only part that I originally got that was the right part was the engine and tranny. The main reason this took so long is because I only really have weekends free, and every part was the wrong part.
My engine distributor got frustrated with me bringing back parts… it was all… all his fault, MAKE SURE YOU BUY FROM SOMEONE THAT KNOWS WTF THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT. He was an excellent source for misinformation.