B16 EF broke down!! NEED HELP!!

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RunninFree

New Member
Hey HT,

here is the deal..just got my car back running again. changed the alternator and fuel pump, (which is why it wasnt running in the first place). since then everything has been good. hadnt been running for awhile but was full of gas, drained that when i put the fuel pump in. have since filled it up with fresh gas atleast 3 or 4 times. today it started up fine but when i was making a 5 mintute trip up the street i could feel that it was stuttering like it was miss firing or the injectors were clogged. i took that into account but kept pushing on but wasnt running it ragged by any means. through out the drive every once and awhile the rpms would jump up and idle at like 2500 until i would hit the pedal real quick and they would drop back down to normal. I got into my neighborhood and it started to stutter real bad then died while i was driving and the batt. light came on for a few seconds. i was still coasting and it was dead so i put it in gear and popped the clutch to start it back up when i did. smoke came out the exhaust and it died again. never threw a CEL or anything!! pulled over let it sit, opened the hood you could feel it was hot! let it sit for a few more minutes then tried again but nothing.

Somebody, Anybody, please help me figure this shit out!
 
I'm pretty sure of what it is...look at your electric box under the hood where your battery wire and alternator wire goes to...I betcha what happened is the two wires are switched...which means your alternator is sending the charge to the box but it isn't sending the charge out of the electric box to the battery...which will cause your car to bog out and stutter till it dies...switch those two wires and u should be fine...lemme know what happens...
 
i was doin some searchin around found that the inside of my resistor box was cracked . like all the way thru so whatever that is in side is just now floppin back and forth. anyone ever heard of anything like this??
 
The fuse box above your intake...u changed ur alternator so its possible its sending charge from alternator but its not charging ur battery
 
ok but how would they be switched..i didnt have to touch any wires in the fuse box to change my alternator
 
Yeah, in changing the alternator it's pretty hard to switch up the wires. You have a wire that goes on the terminal and the big round I think green connector.

But why would your resistor box be cracked, I have never heard of that, but yeah, that could be your problem, it could be shorting out in there, You can go to a pick n' pull and throw one in your back pocket for free. Not sure if that is your problem but I would surely try that first. And hell, if it wasn't the problem it was probably going to be one soon.

I believe the ecu grounds the injectors and they're hot off of the main relay. I could easily be wrong though. Yeah, you have one hot wire going into the box and four out. From the engine control sensors telling the ecu, it grounds inside and let's the injectors fire.

Ah, I'm just rambling on, try the resistor box, if you have the part it's a two minute fix, let us know what's up!
 
yea bro thanks. you read my fuckin mind too bc i was on my way to the pick a part to do that exact thing yesterday but got there right as they were closing lol. gonna try again today. i have heard that a broken resistor box can fry your ecu so im not sure if thats what happened (bc im not sure how long it has been cracked/broken) but i have another ecu so once i get the resistor box im gonna replace both and try. thanks for the help doggie!!

anybody else heard of this resistor box problem?
 
try replacing the obvious first. If you move too far ahead of the diagnosing you will only confuse yourself even more. :lol:

check the wires Vpower mentioned just to be sure they are ok.
DO NOT SWAP! only check to make sure they are correct.

Also check your grounds.
 
i will check them but unless they swapped themselves i cant see it, but i will def check i appreciate the help. i also checked my grounds those are good and clean.
 
Im just saying if ur battery light came on its usually cuz ur not getting charge from your alternator...it happened to me when a shop swapped my alternator...don't know how but it happened...I had the exact same issue happen around my 3rd fill up and came to find out it was those two wires...lol...good luck
 
went out and got another resistor box even snagged some injectors while i was there jsut in case. got back put it in tried it with the old ecu that i thought was fried. didnt start. tried with other ecu i had that is known working. didnt start. checked the case of the phantom wires. they were fine ; ). checked my injectors they are clickin. so gonna try another dizzy and see what happens then.
 
dizzy took a shit on me. got a new dizzy everything is back in working order..thanks for the help everyone.
 
ok new problem!!! check this out!


so i had the issue with my ef not startin last week and i changed the dizzy and everything has been working good. except for one thing, after changing the dizzy my idle with jump while im driving. i start it and it will idle fine at like around 1k-1300, but once i go if i just post up in a gear and cruise as soon as i take my foot off the gas, my throttle meter on my vafc will show it stays open like 4% but if i hit the gas real quick it will drop back down to 0. its not the cable stickin bc i have checked it and its not somethin you can pull the pedal back towards you and the revs drop back to normal. i cleaned my IACV about a month ago but i could try it again. anybody have any ideas on what can be causing this.
 
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