B18A Swappy problems

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jgpoirier

New Member
Well my first swap is coming to a close, and I've just started to hit my snags.
Up until now the swap has been fairly smooth, but now that I have everything mounted and plugged in I'm trying to start.

This has been a major issue for the last week and a bit. My motor will turn over, but will not fire. I have changed main relay and swapped to pr4 ecu and still no start. Thought about maybe my rotor is out by 180 degrees but then remembered that in honda's that is impossible or atleast on my rotor.

Tomorrow im going to break out the multimeter and rip my back seat out to see if i'm getting power to my fuel pump. The thing that really messes with my head is that my d series was having no fuel issues before I pulled the motor.

Another thought was that maybe I have to change my wiring harness but I dont think that's it because everything except one connection for my speedo off my tranny was able to be connected.

Wondering if anyone has any thoughts and has had this problem? Any help is much appreciated as I'm without decent wheels until Jade runs again.

Thanks
Guy
 
So B18A is the swap. But the car is OBD1. What have you done to change the OBD0 stuff over to OBD1?? You do a jumper harness for the OBD0 ECU? I thought a pr4 was OBD0
 
to be honest, im almost positive that the pr4 that i have is obd1, but could be wrong. all i did was unplug my old one and plug the pr4 in. ill take a better look at things tonight
 
as far as i know the pr4 that I have is obd1, but i could be wrong. All I did was unplug my ecu and plug the pr4 in. I'll take a better look after work. Isnt obd1 three connections where as obd0 is two connections
 
Yes they're different plugs. But what about the Dizzy, Alt and Injectors? OBD....??
 
Turns out that I had missed my ecu ground:(
So put er on and try to start and the car almost comes to life, but next issue I have a fuel leak on my filter.
Grab my 12mm and try to tighten it and of course just so that nothing could go right the bolt snapped.
But now atleast I know that the motor has fuel and has spark so im farther than I was yesterday and feel a whole bunch more confident that I want to finish this whole project.

Will continue to post updates... tomorrow i'm picking up new banjo bolt for filter and rear tranny bracket, and throttle cable. Then if the motor starts tomorrow, axles in and take Jade for a spin and see how a non-vtec b18 will do. :)
 
Went all across town today fetching all my parts.
Replaced my fuel filter banjo bolt, making sure it was tight this time.
Then decided to try and start the car, and almost thought she wouldn't and my friend tapped the throttle on the throttle body and she roared to life.
I'm so stoked that this motor started, cause I almost was thinking that I'd migrate into the horror stories of people that swap motors and are never able to start them
But happy it's done.
 
Well got my rear mount in and my new throttle cable in. Decided to try and drive Jade, went good for a block then went to shift from second to third and lost all my gears. Havnt really looked at it yet. I can feel clutch engage and disengage. Shift linkage is okay. Im wondering if its possible to put my axles in on wrong sides? I vaguely remember one shaft having a full spilne on it and the other having a half spline with machined end on it. I figure it slipped out enough that it wont grab gear but didnt fall out. This would explain the puddle of tranny fluid under my car. Any idears?
 
take the wheels and axles nuts off....take them out and inspect. And yes they have specific sides. Look on the axles for info
 
Well got her all together yeaterday and running again.
Turns out the the c clip was effed on my passanger side shaft and wouldn't hold the shaft in,
so replaced it put it back in and took her for a rip. She's been driving great but some times at idle in will fluctuate and sometimes stall and the other half of the time it idles smooth??
Just really really obnoxiously loud... straight out the oem mani until I can get a flange welded on my megan racing headers
 
Check IACV and clean it if its dirty this may take away idle problems If you have an OBD1 TB...you can also check the FITV but I would do IACV first
 
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