Clutch pedal adjustment help

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wanderinman

Senior Member
Ok, so I went in to check all the clearances on my clutch pedal today (96 LS) and had one major question about it. Is my clutch pedal supposed to contact the firewall? When the pedal is all the way down, it is resting against the firewall, and only about half of the piston going into the master cylinder is depressed. Should the clutch pedal be adjusted so that the entire piston will go into the cylinder? It seems that right now the clutch is not fully disengaging when I am trying to get from gear to gear.
 
There is a plastic nut that you can adjust by screwing up or down on the end of your clutch cable where it connects to the tranny. If you tighten it, it will shorten your cable, thereby making your clutch disengage sooner. It is about an inch in diameter and black plastic; its the part that connects to the forky thing that holds the clutch cable in place.
 
did you open the hydro clutch lines at all?
if so is it properly bled?
 
Lines haven't been opened at all, just fairly recently stopped completely disengaging. I have a new clutch/release bearing on the way, hopefully that fixes it. But my big question was whether or not that piston should depress all the way into the master cylinder or not.
 
96 LS is a Hydro Trans... The plastic nut thing is for cable transmissions.

Yes, the clutch pedal is supposed to hit the firewall, thats fine.

Push the clutch pedal with your hand slowly.. You should feel what they call "free play" It should move fairly freely for about three quarters of an inch, then you should feel it firm up. I think the 97 LS is 1/2" to 3/4" Freeplay. If it is more, and it sound to me like yours is way out, you need to back off the nut on the clutch master cylinder. It is behind the pedal inside the car, way up under the dash. and its a BITCH to get to. At least for me it is, you have to bend like a contortionist and cram your hands up in there and twist the shaft with a pair of pliers at first, then you should be able to move it with your hand. Be sure to tighten the nut back up, as your clutch will be right back out of wack if you dont.

Measure the freeplay with a ruler that is placed firmly against the floor directly behind the clutch pedal. Adjust untill it is in spec, (1/2 to 3/4 inch) measured from the bottom of the pedal.

Here, I drew you a pretty picture :)
clutchcylinder.jpg

Hope that helps.
 
Is this typical of hyro trannys or is it just a honda thing? Ive got a Camaro that wont quite open up the tranny with the pedal all the way down and the piston isnt anywhere near going all the way in.
 
Chances are it is a similar system, I haven't really gotten into a Camaros bay, but I woud think it would be a sililar idea.
 
recked, thats about what my CRX was burning off until I took it apart, now its doing nothing
 
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