D16y8 n/a build

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Blanco is the killer of D-Series N/A dreams.

Anyone notice that after Blanco chimes in, everyone with a D decides to go F/I?

Thats because its the cheaper alternative to all motor.
Unless you're shittin money and wanna do something somewhat unique, there really isnt a point.
 
well how much horse power could I reasonably push with a turbo setup on a built head and block? with the y8? I'm hoping arund 300ish hp wise.
 
alright sweet. do you know of anyone who has done an itb setup with a turbo? I wouldn't do that the tuning would be a bitch but I was just thinking it would be sick. What turbo would you suggest? is the turbonetics t3/t4 okay? I have had success with that on b-series motors but this is my first d-series build.
 
As far as I'm concerned, going all-motor with any D or B is, as B puts it, the expensive way to still go slow.

Nah. There are TONS of good reasons to go all motor. But for what most people getting into Hondas want (drag, highway racing, street racing), turbo is the cheapest way to make usable power.
 
I loved the turbo z6 I had and it was VERY fast but my built NA b series is just different but still fast.

Either way you go you won't be dissapointed but if you want a drag car without spending a ton of cash the turbo d would be the way to go.

Oh and I'm pretty sure someone on Homemadeturbo.com made an itb turbo setup.
 
this is an autox type of car if anything. I don't really compete. I just take it down to the track we have and do time trials.
 
If that's what you are using the car for then why build an engine with soo much power?? All you would do is spin your tires around the whole track. You'd be better off with a stock or mildly built NA B16 or B18C.
 
Cause I want the power. lol I drive those tracks for fun. I wanna be able to take it down the strip and put up decent numbers too. But I am really not looking for too much honestly. I would be happy with 200 whp. Pushing 300 something would be a drag car only.
 
Well I'm not going to tell you what to build. Just do some research on different builds then figure out what you want.
 
dude I have done research and I ain't paying for a b-swap. I already got the full y8 swap with a brand new head gasket, and arp head studs, plus an oil pan with a female welded in. So I have the start of a turbo motor. I just need to continue it.
 
400-500whp with a properly built block.

What, besides I'm thinking sleeving, boring to a specific measurement which I wouldn't have a clue until I asked the machinist, replace the rods would someone have to do in order to build up the block to handle that kind of horsepower, Scott? I'm also thinking getting a stronger axle or an upgraded "stage" would be needed as well.

Nah. There are TONS of good reasons to go all motor. But for what most people getting into Hondas want (drag, highway racing, street racing), turbo is the cheapest way to make usable power.

What would make you choose all motor versus turbo, Mike? Which would you prefer and why?

dude I have done research and I ain't paying for a b-swap. I already got the full y8 swap with a brand new head gasket, and arp head studs, plus an oil pan with a female welded in. So I have the start of a turbo motor. I just need to continue it.

Continue on my friend. Don't skimp out on anything. Where do you think you will get your head work done and what will you be having done to it?
 
chances are I will buy the parts and have a machine shop install the valves, retainers, and cams. I can install the cams but I figure if they will have my head already why not? I won't mess with the valves yet. But I have to find a shop near me that does port and pollishes, and 5 valve jobs because the shop my friend went to won't do either. No flow bench.
 
Good call on buying your own parts and having the shop install them. Why not finish it up and do the valves and guides as well? :D I would suggest finding a shop that will do EVERYTHING you need, not taking it from shop to shop. That will be both a waste of your money and time. The place I am going with is in South Carolina, I believe, and they will be doing it all for me. When I spoke with the machinist, he did let me know that a three angle valve job would be sufficient for up to 550hp. Blanco explained to me that a five angle valve job, will help things...if I can remember correctly, flow and seal better? Scott, please correct me should you read this and I am wrong, thanks.

Have you priced out your head work yet? I know you don't have a shop yet, but you can go on different sites and get a feel for what it is going to cost you to have everything you want done.
 
I will take it to only one shop. Which is why I mentioned I won't take it to that place. Well I haven't really priced it out much but the shop that did his head with out the pnp and valve job charged him 180 to remove and replace everything he had done. But I am guessing mine may be around $300 for everything if I find a shop that can do all that.
 
Ouch! All I'm getting charged is $75 to have everything put in. The port and polish, three angle valve job...etc. etc. are all extra, of course. I called a local shop and they told me that the would only charge $50 for hot tanking and taking the darn thing completely apart. $180 sounds like a bit much to me. Make sure you search around before you commit yourself to just one place.
 
What would make you choose all motor versus turbo, Mike? Which would you prefer and why?

That's a LONG discussion... but some quick answers without explanations:

engine response
simplicity
underhood stealth
weight
torque curve tuning
partial throttle characteristics
 
right on i have to agree i traded my turbo set up for my y8 for a LS swap the b-series is a better starting point more power less money
 
I haev helped build a crv/vtec with a t3/t4 turbo kit fully built. that car is quick. but I wanna build the d-series. I also have a friend with an h23 accord that we swapped. In other words my group of friends is building just about every series of motor for honda. I got a d16y8 in my civic, he has the h23 in his accord, the b20 in a hatch and i have an f22b2 that I am gonna swap a vtec head on and build a turbo setup.
 
That's a LONG discussion... but some quick answers without explanations:

engine response
simplicity
underhood stealth
weight
torque curve tuning
partial throttle characteristics

As you found out the other night, Mike, I'm more than able and willing to have long discussions. :D

All you really need is Vitara pistons, forged rods, sleeves, and everything else that goes with a turbo. It'd be wise to use forged pistons as well, but most people don't.

The five angle valve job is meant to harness every last bit of power from the head. Something that is, quite honestly, a big waste of money if you aren't racing competitively. A renewed three angle will be just fine.



On the flip side, a properly sized turbo will exhibit most of the same characteristics, which is why there are turbocharged F1 engines. I mean, how often are you going to be below 3000rpm while racing? :)



Read my previous reply about the actual cost of things.:)

Why wouldn't people use forged pistons? It makes sense. Then again, there's that word that most people at my job don't know the meaning to...sense.

Thank you for I believe, re-explaining the meaning of the five angle valve job.

What if I were racing a scooter? I'm sure I could keep it under 3,000rpm. :D
 
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Basicly what they Blanco is trying to say is....the value you put on a d series is just gonna cost as much as a b series engine....just get a b series and go from there...you be more happy with yourself in the long term...
 
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